stueys

Hi guys, I have been thinking of getting my low run time 8ight 1.0 running again and race it. What parts without going crazy are worth changing? For example the 2.0 tank and maybe longer chassis? Likely to be on astro tracks. Thanks :-)

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

This is a copy and paste from my reply to someone who recently pulled out there trusty ready to run 1.0 asking what parts to interchange, this has all the best info on what needs to be changed and I highly recommend your rear diff being the parts u take serious in changing as it will fail on the buggy and truggy 1.0 very easily and quickly due to not having the option to shim the gear mesh on the ring and pinion, was a very bad design that cost losi big wins 10 years ago, so again your rear diff look at the parts I mention in this write up.

Losi 1.0

You should get these parts in this order when you can

2.0 Rear diff case and aluminum diff inserts, and necessary diff parts for upgrade (rear diff will absolutely fail within a gallon so immediately upgrade) *i believe the rear diff on the 1.0 is completely different other then the cups and internal diff gears, you may want to look online eBay some ppl sell complete rear diffs from the kit for around 30-45 dollars with all parts (diff, diff housing, ring pinion, shimming parts and plastic diff inserts, replace those inserts to aluminum as they don't wollow after time)

Version 3 radio tray with both servos upfront (stock radio tray destroys servos no matter how expensive they are on the old servo tray, because throttle is close to engine, no good)

Front shock tower from kit, rtr parts are junk n bend first crash.

2.0 a arms and universals (eliminates offset wheels which suck) (*truggy)

10/12 degree inclined spindle and carriers, 10 is aggressive, 12s are smooth. I like 10. *on both buggy n truck

Front and rear adjustable hingepin braces (stock bend very easy)

Aluminum servo savor arm (stock breaks very easy) and aluminum top steering column plate for rigidity

Kit chassis as that rtr one will get destroyed.

Replace bearings and clutch, check air filter neck for rips as its happened to me sucking dirt ruining engine, change air filter, clean shock and diff oil, replace with 7f/10c/5r and recommended shock oil.

Replace turnbuckle ends and check the balls for wear or else you will have to much slop to stay together.

You should be good with this, if your engine is running weird replace tank and glow plug.

New tires and wheels that fit new 2.0 arms, you do not need those offset wheels, you want the arms to go deep into the wheel.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

Further, your question on chassis and tank should revolve around how they still perform, if your engine is running good no air leaks then your tanks good but the new tank is much better, I've had 8 tanks n not one has failed, even one that had the clutch bell bolt hitting the tank didn't go threw it's so thick, make sure you use a countersink bolt on the clutch bell because a button head or engine mount bolt are to big n hit the tank under landing flex..

Chassis can be changed when they are worn out, it's an old car so upgrading is moot point, I would look for performance changes in shocks n diffs n keep it simple n cheap.

Like I've said your rear diff is the primary failing part on the 1.0 and the parts are not cheap, so upgrading to the good rear diff will cost upfront some money but save you a lot in the long run, at minimum I would buy and build a complete rear diff ready to go so when the 1.0 diff goes you can switch it out fast n not lose to much time, I would simply wait till I can get those parts before going to any tracks because it probably will fail with a day or two n you don't want that to ruin your day.

stueys

Hi Matt, thanks very much for all of your advice. My car is an original kit build, not a rtr and already has a few upgrade parts on it although I need to check what. I'm pretty sure the rear hingepin holders are different, and it has a quick release engine mount. I will check the car over and see what I have.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

Cool, ya that originally was wrote for a truggy 1.0 rtr owner so look past anything rtr since you have the kit parts.

One last thing, if you do update parts with longer chassis and updated arms you may find yourself searching for a set up not achievable with your current shocks. With added space comes updated parts, meaning your shocks need longer travel, a set up may be hard to find if you get into changing parts that were meant for an overall change. So I wouldn't go past 2.0 parts in critical areas like towers n whatnot because even tho they fit they will need entire arms castor blocks etc.. to work properly.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

If you allow me to add my 0.02c, I want to slightly change Mr. Piva list.

The drivetrain/suspension durability parts are critical, no change. Those are the mentioned rear diff stuff, GenIII tray, the rear hubs if not mistaken and turnbuckles/rod ends from the latest 4.0 which are better.

Then I will disagree with Mr. Piva and recommend the 3.0 front end parts: shock tower, shocks and the spindles and their carriers to have the very much needed better geometry. If you can add the rear shocks and shock tower then better. I consider those front end parts critical to have good behaviour.

smash8ight

iTrader: (8)

The only thing I added was the rear hub pins,and adjustable hinge pin carriers,and the alm diff spacers.every thing else is first gen.the car drives more like a 2wd buggy than a 4wd buggy.any other changes and it will loss the handle.there is only one losi 8th scale buggy.....that's the first one.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

No offense but that first part I'm not understanding, I'm a losi expert but 2.0/3.0 so maybe the 1.0 drivetrain and shocks are somewhat the same but I'm not sure if that's what you were saying. I believe the whole 3.0 front end parts are further then the op wants to do with this but fill me in on what you mean about drivetrain? ' The drivetrain shocks are critical.. no change' you mean that losi didn't change anything or its critical to change? I'm trying to think what the drivetrain and shocks were from 1.0/2.0 and I want to say they made big changes but like I said originally once you start going longer chassis and new arms and change those lengths and geometry you will get lost trying to find a set up because everything is different. But like I said I don't remember if the 1.0 and 2.0 had the same lengths an geometries, I just know a few parts (rear diff) were major upgrades from the 1.0/2.0

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

No offence taken, hope you didn't take too as I didn't want to offend. I was referring to your list, no change as no change from what you've recommended and critical as it is critical to go away from 1.0 parts based on durability.

See here the small list of changes from 1.0 to 2.0. As you can see some stuff was also changed for the 3.0 version, so instead of hunting down old parts that are outdated it's better to jump right into 3.0 parts. The entire front end isn't needed, only those parts I mentioned on my post.

Drivetrain as upgrade the pinion bearing supports and diff cases,as those are critical to cut down on maintenance. Arms were updated on small areas, nothing important. If not mistaken the 2.0 upgrade was because of wheel clearance. Won't have any issues with setup, if someone has issues with setup then check my FB page, link on my sig.

In the end I think it would be better for OP to get a 3.0 and use the 1.0 as a last resort spares car.

stueys

I have pretty much all of the bits I need to race the car, I wanted to try and get the car up and running and see how I feel about it. So a few minor updates if worth doing for reliability or modest improvements in performance were what I had in mind. Thanks again for the info :-)

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

No problem we're here to help. Sorry if I got carried away with the upgrades

The minimum would be the rear case and the aluminium insert which allow the diff play to be shimmed.

I'm toying with the idea of getting another...

stueys

I appreciate the feedback So are we talking the 2.0 rear diff casing/gearbox (not the actual diff itself) and Ali insert then? I take it the original 1.0 does not allow you to adjust the backlash between crown and pinion.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Yes sorry, the gearbox

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

Ok i understand now. I only ask because I’m ready to jump up to the 4.0 and the drivetrain parts have changed but lengths on the 2.0/3.0 are all the same, completely different parts but same lengths. Being as I have so many parts from 2.0 that fit my 3.0 im hoping some of it will still work with the 4.0 if it has Similar 3.0 length dog bones. I checked shocks and 3.0/4.0 lengths are the same so my 3.0 shocks can stay but all my drivetrain parts I hope have the same lengths. I don’t mind using a cvd style driveshaft if it’s the same lengths as the new dog bones and other updates. That’s why it’s good to know what those 1.0 parts lengths are Incase you need one for the 4.0 in a bind.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

The rear centre axle is 2mm shorter on the 1.0 than the others because the chassis itself is shorter by the same amount. I think the wheel axles are now metric on the 4.0, don't know how much close are they to the 3.0 and 2.0 dimensions so beware. Can I ask why are you switching to the 4.0? I am sceptical of some claims TLR made