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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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Last edit by: pparrett
TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 07-13-2017, 12:47 PM
  #1456  
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Originally Posted by Raman
I run on Grey Carpet.

Ride height 5
Droop - 1,5 over ride height in front and 2,5 in rear
Camber - 1,5º all around
Front toe - 1,0º toe out
Dampers TRF419 big bores
Shocks Muchmore 400 wt
Springs Muchmore X springs Red front (firm) Pink rear (medium) - I also tested the old HPI Pink in front and silver in rear.. was about the same.

Diff - Front epoxied / locked, Rear 10k (using my diff mod in this post


Motor fantom FR-1 21.5
ESC HW Just Stock
Gearing 78/51
Tyres USGT Spec
Body: Killerbody Lexus RC F
cool. what do i need to do to get down to that gearing you use? also, any other upgrades besides the shocks and the springs? i also wanna see a pic of your RC F!!
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:03 PM
  #1457  
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Originally Posted by martiniracing
cool. what do i need to do to get down to that gearing you use? also, any other upgrades besides the shocks and the springs? i also wanna see a pic of your RC F!!
My RC F.. you mean what's left of it , after battle scars .. I'll see if I can load them from my phone.

For gearing.. I'm using the Yeah racing motor mount.. and had to trim the gear cover to fit the spur gear.

Other upgrades - steering arms / bridge and the prop shaft... used all Tamiya parts for those. I also had spare DCJ for front and CVD for rear.. so I run those.
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:15 PM
  #1458  
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Originally Posted by Raman
My RC F.. you mean what's left of it , after battle scars .. I'll see if I can load them from my phone.

For gearing.. I'm using the Yeah racing motor mount.. and had to trim the gear cover to fit the spur gear.

Other upgrades - steering arms / bridge and the prop shaft... used all Tamiya parts for those. I also had spare DCJ for front and CVD for rear.. so I run those.
What's a dcj?

Also what parts do I need to mount the spur with? Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:20 PM
  #1459  
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DCJ are the double cardan axle joint. Similar to CVD but have two joints.. they're good for steering.

For spur gear mount, i forgot to list it as it came with the car.. it's this one 54500

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7379

Last edited by Raman; 07-13-2017 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:21 PM
  #1460  
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Two night is a row of thunder showers and not getting to run the car.....I have the jones bad....

With that the better half had a meeting last night so after putting the wee man to bed I played with the TT02. I converted it back to the RSR and put the staggered wheels with the Gravity USGT tires back on it. I also received the Maclan fan I had ordered and installed that. I will be interested to see how hot the motor gets with the 4.33:1 gearing and the fan.....I wonder if I will be able to go a bit steeper with the gearing with the fan. The last combination I have yields a FDR of 3.92:1, that might be pushing it a bit.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-15-2017, 06:59 AM
  #1461  
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It's been a while since I cut out a new body. I always used body scissors and kinda hacked it up. On this, I decided to check the YouTube out for tips and it seemed like the scoring method works best. So I grabbed a utility blade/box cutter and went to town...

Getting the hang of it


This is definitely the cleaner method to cutting bodies and getting clean lines and cuts.

All cut out.



The body lines and detail are great! Man this is a good looking body. And to top it off, I hadn't looked at the decal sheet. O my! These are great!




Again, for $100 these Tamiya kits can't be beat.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:32 AM
  #1462  
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Back when I was building a lot of bodies I always used lexan scissors, they usually came out OK but when I cut out the Porsche body I used the scoring meathod.....way faster and cleaned. I have now done two bodies by scoring them and I think it is the only way to go now.

Tamiya still has the best bodies I have experienced, they just look good.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-16-2017, 01:08 AM
  #1463  
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Originally Posted by MajorRex
Always good to see more people with TT02
I am using Hi-Torque Servo Saver (51000) that come with the steering upgrade set...the kit saver is pretty lame, you can just throw it away like my friend.
If you treasure your servo and would like to race then get a better one, otherwise you can still use the kit one for fun.
The Xray Super Stiff V2 servo saver is quality. Far better than the Tamiya 51000. Previously I'd put 51000s on all my cars as the only reference point I had was the kit savers which are variable to say the least. However I found after a few runs - probably an hour or so - they still developed some inconsistencies around the straight ahead position and the steering wouldn't quite centre which irritates the hellout of me. With the Xray my car has now got over 20 hours on it and it's still as good as day one.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:39 PM
  #1464  
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I finally had a chance to run the car with the 4.33:1 FDR. After 12 minutes I am at 155*. I think that is as steep as I can go this time of the year.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:07 AM
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Did you check temps on the ESC and lipo?
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:18 AM
  #1466  
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Originally Posted by nitrostarter
Did you check temps on the ESC and lipo?
Yes, The battery was at 110* and the ESC was at 115*. The tennis court showed right around 115* as well.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:18 AM
  #1467  
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Originally Posted by LJH
With that said if you need a new tub why not get the stiffer one?

If you buy it off e-bay RCMart will ship it free. Here on the East Coast I get stuff from RCM in 8 or 9 days. Still a bummer though.

Cheers,
Jim
That's a good question. I believe that the failure mode of the "reinforced" parts may be a problem. If you're prone to crashing, having more flex is a big deal. When you reinforce one part, you move the stress it may feel down the line.

When I tore my chassis, I believe that the "soft" chassis would have been just fine in the end.

I can confirm the shipping times as well.
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:00 AM
  #1468  
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Originally Posted by Mini35
The Xray Super Stiff V2 servo saver is quality. Far better than the Tamiya 51000. Previously I'd put 51000s on all my cars as the only reference point I had was the kit savers which are variable to say the least. However I found after a few runs - probably an hour or so - they still developed some inconsistencies around the straight ahead position and the steering wouldn't quite centre which irritates the hellout of me. With the Xray my car has now got over 20 hours on it and it's still as good as day one.
Sure...will try it when I have the chance

Last week when I broke my front knuckle, I replaced the front upper arm at the same time with YR one so that I can adjust the camber. Their original turnbuckle is really soft...it bends after a light impact
I now replaced it with Ti one, looks much better but will see...
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:13 AM
  #1469  
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Would a 26t pinion fit with a stock 70t spur? 25t to 26t is an increase in diameter of 0.8mm so the pinion-spur distance is 0.4mm closer with the 26t. In my experience tamiya motor mounts provide a relatively loose mesh, certainly looser than I would set on my BD7.

I'm entering a stock spec class where only the pinion can be changed.
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:19 AM
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Finally got the wing, headlight and taillight buckets cut out. The wing must be thicker lexan because it was much harder to score, but I got it. My awesome wife was in town yesterday and stopped at the LHS for some paint. I let her pick out the main color but said it needed to be my sons favorite color, so fluorescent green it is. I should be ready to paint this afternoon after giving the lexan a quick bath.


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