Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
09-02-2001, 12:36 PM
#226
dave, ya scottys place is open...prolly not quite done though....we are going racing tues....i look forward to seeing you..and thanks for the tire info.....matt
09-02-2001, 07:43 PM
#227
Hey johnbull, kentech, darkside etc. Do you want to start an F1 thread in the chat lounge? Let me know.
09-02-2001, 11:01 PM
#228
Hey Josh, The avatar is a Si-mon. Made it up myself, just now 
If I knew any of the places some of these other ones came from, I'd get something cooler
I think Daniz' one is very swish!
I'll be in touch regarding motor tips, I saw yesterday just how much my OLD GM1 is down on power compared to the Spitfires. Still kicked a$$ as the other guys are just getting used to running foams. Car feels like a mod TC with a flat battery but is soooo easy to drive, should be fun.
I do have a valid question today though.
I have a shock leaking.
It is the first since I built the car and my first Yokomo TC one EVER!(YR4M, M2, TC and now PRO, Great shocks)
Problem is, since I normally never have leaky shocks and have always sold the cars before ever needing to replace anything like it, just how do I take the seals and the other bit's and pieces out?
I don't want to star hacking around without knowing what to do...
HELP!
If I knew any of the places some of these other ones came from, I'd get something cooler
I think Daniz' one is very swish!I'll be in touch regarding motor tips, I saw yesterday just how much my OLD GM1 is down on power compared to the Spitfires. Still kicked a$$ as the other guys are just getting used to running foams. Car feels like a mod TC with a flat battery but is soooo easy to drive, should be fun.
I do have a valid question today though.
I have a shock leaking.
It is the first since I built the car and my first Yokomo TC one EVER!(YR4M, M2, TC and now PRO, Great shocks)
Problem is, since I normally never have leaky shocks and have always sold the cars before ever needing to replace anything like it, just how do I take the seals and the other bit's and pieces out?
I don't want to star hacking around without knowing what to do...
HELP!
09-02-2001, 11:22 PM
#229
Leaking shocks are very serious problems....
09-02-2001, 11:38 PM
#230
Originally posted by Dave Kurschner
What's the point of using all that droop? Are they scraping chassis with out the droop?
What's the point of using all that droop? Are they scraping chassis with out the droop?
cause with the stock shock shafts the spring is nearly compressed.......these guys turn their cars into buggy's lol....with tamiya shock-shafts.... there is one car that is really high (12mm)without the battrey...then when he puts the pack in......the ride hieght is back to norm.....ill try some longer shafts tonight ill tell you how it goes!
09-03-2001, 08:22 AM
#231
Any one kow where I can get different castor blocks for the SP,
I am running foams on carpet, what front camber link postion are you guys running??
I am running foams on carpet, what front camber link postion are you guys running??
09-03-2001, 12:15 PM
#232
Si-mon, you have never re-built thse shocks 
I had leaky shocks too, but I replaced the shafts and seals and it fixed the problem. Basically, take the shock cap off, drain the fluid, then use take the shaft out. Next, use a screwdriver or something similar to gently push up on the black cap/seal thing that is at the bottom of the shock body. Just gently use a srewdriver and push everything out the top of the shock body. Then you have the little shock rebuild tool you got with the pro and you put that on a shock shaft first, then the foam pad thigy, then the two rubber seals (which you may need to replace) and last, that little black thing. Push it down firmly back into the shock body, and make sure not the crimp the black thingy, and make sure it is fully seated.
I can't imagine running the car with that much droop, I have my front shocks at 60.2mm and the back at 59.7, I tried 63 and 61, and it felt so slow!
Speedo
I had leaky shocks too, but I replaced the shafts and seals and it fixed the problem. Basically, take the shock cap off, drain the fluid, then use take the shaft out. Next, use a screwdriver or something similar to gently push up on the black cap/seal thing that is at the bottom of the shock body. Just gently use a srewdriver and push everything out the top of the shock body. Then you have the little shock rebuild tool you got with the pro and you put that on a shock shaft first, then the foam pad thigy, then the two rubber seals (which you may need to replace) and last, that little black thing. Push it down firmly back into the shock body, and make sure not the crimp the black thingy, and make sure it is fully seated.I can't imagine running the car with that much droop, I have my front shocks at 60.2mm and the back at 59.7, I tried 63 and 61, and it felt so slow!
Speedo
09-03-2001, 11:46 PM
#233
yeah....with droop you get slow reactions.........really slllloooowww.....ive tried johnbulls car and it was good excet that it was !!!slow!!! everyone that tried it tought it was slow...but it works!!!
09-03-2001, 11:47 PM
#234
i have never rebuilt my shocks in a year
but ill have to some time this week ...lol
09-04-2001, 04:52 AM
#235
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Raced on Saturday, and right now, my car is running the best it ever has. I'm still having a problem with the front inside wheel shaking when the wheels are turned during a tight circle??? 
Anyone know how many times the comm on a stock motor can be cut before it's considered to small? The motor that I raced with (year old P2K) on Saturday was shaped almost like a hour glass when I examined it after the race, but my car had more punch than it has ever had!
Anyone know how many times the comm on a stock motor can be cut before it's considered to small? The motor that I raced with (year old P2K) on Saturday was shaped almost like a hour glass when I examined it after the race, but my car had more punch than it has ever had!
09-04-2001, 05:03 AM
#236
Drama over, I just shoved a jewellers screwdriver through the bottom of the shock. It pushed everything up and I just replaced all the seals and foam compensater.
Hopefully that stops the leak.
I also redid all the bearings and have tried greasing the driveshafts/pins etc as I put my dual one ways in for a thrash this weekend. Don't want to damage the front or wear it out just yet.
I've spent the day working on my car, then had a second hand MR4 TC with some upgrades dropped off so I did another 4 hours fettling on that and I'll finish that tomorrow.
Hopefully that stops the leak.
I also redid all the bearings and have tried greasing the driveshafts/pins etc as I put my dual one ways in for a thrash this weekend. Don't want to damage the front or wear it out just yet.
I've spent the day working on my car, then had a second hand MR4 TC with some upgrades dropped off so I did another 4 hours fettling on that and I'll finish that tomorrow.
09-04-2001, 05:46 AM
#237
Tech Rookie
anyone
what gear do you use with a 9 turn motor? Am driving on an asphalt track, lots of bumps, lots of turns and a 30 meter stretch. I only tried 11 turns as of now and used a 21 tooth pinion. And what about stock motor like the GM3? We only use rubber tires and we race for 5 mins. Thanks
what gear do you use with a 9 turn motor? Am driving on an asphalt track, lots of bumps, lots of turns and a 30 meter stretch. I only tried 11 turns as of now and used a 21 tooth pinion. And what about stock motor like the GM3? We only use rubber tires and we race for 5 mins. Thanks
09-04-2001, 06:47 AM
#238
Tech Adept
Geppetteo - There's a few different things that can cause your wheel to shimmy back and forth like that. First off, check your CVD/Universal for bends or binding. Sometimes your C-hub will crack and bend forward and make contact with your axle. Also, depending on which version of the front hub carrier you have (if you are using a universal), some of the older ones needed to be carved out slightly with and exacto knife because the joint would rub. Another thing that happens is if you CVD pin becomes loose and stick out of the CVD slightly which then rubs on the hub carrier. That's a good starting point to solving that problem.
About your Stock motor com, alot of guys run them until there isn't any copper left. Typically (if you have a caliper) though, coms are good down to about .250 if I remember correctly. But get rid of that hourglass shape and you should pick up more speed.
REEDY - Try a 24 tooth pinion on your GM3 (if you are using 78t spur). That's a 7.14 ratio. I just ran that ratio last night and had a good ratio of punch and top end. I'd hover around there and go up 1 or down 1 but don't get too far away from that ratio.
About your Stock motor com, alot of guys run them until there isn't any copper left. Typically (if you have a caliper) though, coms are good down to about .250 if I remember correctly. But get rid of that hourglass shape and you should pick up more speed.
REEDY - Try a 24 tooth pinion on your GM3 (if you are using 78t spur). That's a 7.14 ratio. I just ran that ratio last night and had a good ratio of punch and top end. I'd hover around there and go up 1 or down 1 but don't get too far away from that ratio.
09-04-2001, 10:15 AM
#239
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Dave Kurschner: Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look at all of those areas. The hub carrier should be one of the latest, since my chassis is the Special Kit, rather than an upgrade. This problem developed after a rebuild, so mabey I've over looked something.
09-04-2001, 11:11 AM
#240
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
I've been off everything for the last 3 days...just waiting for my new computer. Haven't been able to work or anything. Amazing when you get used to them!
Darkside, what did you think of Spa? I understand Ferrari have accepted to give Williams lessons in pit work.....in exchange for Montoya!
With the start of our championship getting nearer everyone's down at the track most days playing, and looking for that elusive tenth of a second.
DROOP. Yes, as Adam says, some guys have just carried it too far. What I have done is fitted TC3 shocks, without any rebound spacers. These have slightly longer shafts and give the same effect as a longer shock, which is what Yoke themselves have just introduced...haven't they?
Soft - 30 oil and soft springs all round, then used roll bars front and rear to check out body roll. it certainly seems to work. When Adam last drove the car it was lazy as he says, but since turning the servo round and moving the weight forward it is now much more responsive and twitches beautifully through the twisty bits.
Dave, I agree with you about setting the special up softer. The old TC Pro was best with about 60 weight shock oil and orange springs - on our asphalt track, but the special is set up so much softer all round and is so much quicker round the corners.
TYRES. We have been using Pits D30s here - almost everyone does, but if you reckon the Yoke tyres afford more grip then they are certainly worth a try. I've ordered various types and makes and will be trying some next week. Will let you know results.
Missed practice today waiting for the blessed computer man. Will miss it again tomorrow because we go motorcycling on Wednesday evenings. Hopefully back at the track on Thursday evening.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
I've been off everything for the last 3 days...just waiting for my new computer. Haven't been able to work or anything. Amazing when you get used to them!
Darkside, what did you think of Spa? I understand Ferrari have accepted to give Williams lessons in pit work.....in exchange for Montoya!
With the start of our championship getting nearer everyone's down at the track most days playing, and looking for that elusive tenth of a second.
DROOP. Yes, as Adam says, some guys have just carried it too far. What I have done is fitted TC3 shocks, without any rebound spacers. These have slightly longer shafts and give the same effect as a longer shock, which is what Yoke themselves have just introduced...haven't they?
Soft - 30 oil and soft springs all round, then used roll bars front and rear to check out body roll. it certainly seems to work. When Adam last drove the car it was lazy as he says, but since turning the servo round and moving the weight forward it is now much more responsive and twitches beautifully through the twisty bits.
Dave, I agree with you about setting the special up softer. The old TC Pro was best with about 60 weight shock oil and orange springs - on our asphalt track, but the special is set up so much softer all round and is so much quicker round the corners.
TYRES. We have been using Pits D30s here - almost everyone does, but if you reckon the Yoke tyres afford more grip then they are certainly worth a try. I've ordered various types and makes and will be trying some next week. Will let you know results.
Missed practice today waiting for the blessed computer man. Will miss it again tomorrow because we go motorcycling on Wednesday evenings. Hopefully back at the track on Thursday evening.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.