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Old 06-10-2004, 08:20 AM
  #6346  
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Default Re: Asphalt Rubber Set-up

Originally posted by KDagh1
Sorry if this has been posted elsewhere within this thread, but I was not able to find it . Does anybody have a good asphalt rubber set-up for the EVO III SE?

thanx
Here's DJ's setup from last year's Reedy Race. I've tried it, it's very good...
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TB-Evolution III-djbevo3setup.gif  
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Old 06-10-2004, 08:57 AM
  #6347  
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Originally posted by dsrbltoys
When building the Tamiya shocks, I have found it easiest this way.

Fill shock
Remove air bubles with piston at top
Pull piston down (to make sure no more bubbles)
Fill to level with top of shock with piston midway to 2/3 to top
Then set the bladder on top, and press it in a little with a screwdriver.
Then add the oring or sponge to suite track
Then add the top plastic to the top
Gently set the top cap over the plastic snap
Press firmly on the plastic while screwing cap down.

This gives me shocks that last a LONG time

If the piston is in 2/3 when you assemble. The shaft moves the same from top as it does from bottom (same rebound). If you build it with the piston in middle of stroke then you have more compression then rebound.

These are my findings, but should make it easy to duplicate the builds...
You are dead on the money!! Tamiya shocks are the best I've ever owned or built! This is exactly the method I use and my shocks will last for months until the o-rings begin to drag. I would like to add that you need to rebuild your shocks with new o-rings every 2-3 months because they will begin to drag and get inconsistent. It's hard to feel without knowing what you are feeling.
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Old 06-10-2004, 09:13 AM
  #6348  
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Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Tamiya shocks are the best I've ever owned or built!
I strongly dissagree..

Plastic shock collars self-adjust (graise it with my elbow and my ride height is GONE)
Bottom cap (which is REALLY not needed) comes off in hard crashs
Need frequent re-building

I like the Losi shocks a lot. Easy to fil and work very well

Tamiya shocks are somewhere in the range of TC3 Racer kit shocks on my list
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Old 06-10-2004, 09:16 AM
  #6349  
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LOLOLOLOL HELLLLLLLLLL NO

trf's are so good, you must be doing something wrong becasue none of thats happened to me before... or maybe im just inexperienced

Anyway my evo3, full spec kitted out with spares and extras hits Ebay in 4 hours.
be sure to check it out

Tarnjit
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Old 06-10-2004, 09:26 AM
  #6350  
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Originally posted by Evo_Uk

trf's are so good, you must be doing something wrong becasue none of thats happened to me before
TRFS are WAYYY over-rated

I might try filling them up by his ^^^ method for more life but the bottom caps (still, not needed) come off in crashes and the shock collars SUCK

They do look good though
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Old 06-10-2004, 09:28 AM
  #6351  
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Huh....???

I built the EVO III SE exactly per kit directions and my shocks work beautifully. No leaks, no air, smooth as butter, and consistent. Honestly, they are the BEST shocks I have ever built. I used the Duratrax brass shock shaft tool to install the bottom shock end without scratching the shaft -- highly recommended.
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Old 06-10-2004, 09:28 AM
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TRF shocks are the bomb-biggity. You can purchase the hop-up aluminum shock adjusters...they have a large o-ring that holds your setting. Or if your find your adjusters WAY too loose, you can take an exacto and put a small nick in the threads of the plastic adjuster, that'll give it enough bit. I usually don't.

I'm sure we all know that the Black Kat is opinionated and has no problem sharing his thoughts. This is the same racer who won't recommend a Stratus 2.0. A similar kind of body that recently won the reedy race.

Last edited by rtypec; 06-10-2004 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:06 AM
  #6353  
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i was gonna say.. they guys at my track raved about their new "low friction " yokomo shocks till they grabbed my TRF flourines... all they could say was WOW!
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:24 PM
  #6354  
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trf shocks are the best.smoothest,leak free,etc.
they should be industry standard!
there as smooth as silk and the easiest to build and maintain.
only thing is they are a bit of a nuicance to keep stripping them to change pistons but i always use 3 pots anyway!
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:26 PM
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Originally posted by rtypec
TRF shocks are the bomb-biggity. You can purchase the hop-up aluminum shock adjusters...they have a large o-ring that holds your setting. Or if your find your adjusters WAY too loose, you can take an exacto and put a small nick in the threads of the plastic adjuster, that'll give it enough bit. I usually don't.

I'm sure we all know that the Black Kat is opinionated and has no problem sharing his thoughts. This is the same racer who won't recommend a Stratus 2.0. A similar kind of body that recently won the reedy race.
dont forget the bent hinge pins rod
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:39 PM
  #6356  
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I don't like the Strat as much as I like my MG...Only way you can change that is give me a Strat you like...

They are smooth & consistant but they have that un-needed bottom cap and self adjust. Those two cons override the pros IMO

Yes I'm not afraid to voice my opinions. Whats your point?
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:49 PM
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Originally posted by The Black Kat
I don't like the Strat as much as I like my MG...Only way you can change that is give me a Strat you like...

They are smooth & consistant but they have that un-needed bottom cap and self adjust. Those two cons override the pros IMO

Yes I'm not afraid to voice my opinions. Whats your point?
wots the mg like compared to alfa 2?
i didnt like mazda 6 as i felt it was more lazy then the alfa 2.
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Old 06-10-2004, 03:38 PM
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Originally posted by The Black Kat
I They are smooth & consistant but they have that un-needed bottom cap and self adjust. Those two cons override the pros IMO

what bottom cap is unneccessary? i cant remember anything not needed there.
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Old 06-10-2004, 03:49 PM
  #6359  
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Theres a bottom cap to the shock. It is UNNEEDED...I found out about it when it came off during a crash. I should just solder it on

I have no idea how an Alfa handles
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Old 06-10-2004, 05:22 PM
  #6360  
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Oh! on my shocks I used a solder iron to bugger up the threads, this acts like a locking ring!
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