Desolas

iTrader: (2)

In mod, the hubs do tend to break. So aluminum ones might be a good idea all the way around (1 degree rear.) The fronts may end up bending or tweaking a little in a massive crash, but they will save you money and grief in the long run. If you don't buy the aluminum I'd recommend buying spares of each part because if you don't break them outright they do wear out.

If you're going to run foam, order a BMI kit for it. Top and Bottom deck. Shock towers don't seem to matter as much, but the stiffer chassis does seem to help. I was going back and forth with the BMI bottom deck, and then using the old top deck, then using the BMI top deck as traction improved, etc.. Also you might want to pickup the XH arms for the front as a tuning option.

..and the most obvious "hop up" of them all for the first gen T2 is the 007 conversion kit.

..if you don't already have a spring collection, the XRAY spring kit is a good idea too.

KE4PJO

Amen to that.

annie_himself

iTrader: (5)

Any insight on the '007 Euro spec hop-ups?

cvt01

iTrader: (2)

The best hopup ever for the T2 is the 007 conversion kit

You don't have to buy the whole kit, just look at the most important items (bulkheads, topdecks)

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...nversion%20Set

301123 Chassis 3.5mm - 1pcs included - not needed if you like the BMI
301179 Upper Deck - Wide - 1pcs included
302018 Front Bulkhead - 2pcs included
302078 Composite Hubs - 4pcs included - not needed
302162 Front Arm - 2pcs included - not needed
302504 XRAY Quick-Saver™ - 1pcs included
302581 Servo Horn - KO - 1pcs included - I'm not sure but it's cheap anyways
302583 Servo Horn - Futaba - 1pcs included - I'm not sure but it's cheap anyways
302630 Adj. Turnbuckle - 1pcs included
302652 Ball End - 1pcs included
303018 Rear Bulkhead - 2pcs included
303019 Right Layshaft Bulkhead - 1pcs included
303029 Motor Mount Bulkhead - 1pcs included
303044 Rear Upper Deck - 1pcs included
303162 Rear Arm - 2pcs included - not needed
305886 Spur Gear 116T/64 - 1pcs included - not needed
306513 Top Deck Mount - 4pcs included
308387 Springs Light-Purple - 2pcs included - you may have one already
308394 Springs White - 2pcs included - you may have one already
391009 Instruction Manual - 1pcs included - not needed
960140 Nut M4 with Flange - 4pcs included - not needed
Exploded View & Spare Parts List - 1pcs included - not needed
Set-Up Sheet - Foam - 1pcs included - not needed

cybcow

iTrader: (3)

Thanks cvt01 thats a nice list. Thanks everyone else as well, I probably will get the aluminum hubs all the way around. Plus the upgraded parts off the 007.

Anthony.L

iTrader: (41)

No that would be downgrade since I rape MRE's with my T2.

Anthony.L

iTrader: (41)

On my original T2 that I ran on asphalt the only upgrades I did where graphite battery brace, and multidiff to run spool or one-way. Nothing else is needed except maybe some different springs. I liked white fronts and yellow rears better then the kit progessive springs.

The alum bits are nice and strong, but keep in mind they are stiff and will change the way the car handles. If you run rubber tires you want to stay with the composite bits.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

When the car 1st came out I loaded on parts literally and the only thing I ever broke was the front C-hubs.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Anthony.L

I think I get IT!

cvt01

iTrader: (2)

The 2 degree rear alu hubs is something to consider because with those you can have 2 degree outboard toe in. the 1 degree version is just a bling-bling.

Don't buy the front alu C-hubs. You hit a board they will bend and you will never be able to see it.

Alu steering knuckles: waste of money in my opinion... they come with a pair of smaller bearings which will result more play in the suspension and also the smaller the bearing the less abuse it can take.

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

With the two degree outer hubs though your also stuck with 2 degrees of toe unless you switch to a 1 degree hub - or you have to sweep the rear arms out. Generally with a foam car you run 1-1.5 degree of toe. So that's something to keep in mind.

The rear hubs also have a smaller bearing. Smaller bearings may not take as much abuse, but they have less rolling resistance so should be faster. If your running rubber I would not worry about it, foam and you will break the fronts which can lead to you eating a CVD, especially in 19T or modified.

rc1racer

iTrader: (4)

Check out Teamtamale.com.
There aluminum hubs will take alot of punnishment. I have been using front chubs and steering blocks and rear
hubs for about 10 months and I did bend one chub alittle and was able to straighten it. Also they use the stock bearings

cvt01

iTrader: (2)

It's true but the kit comes with the 1 dergee plastic ones and that's my point. The alu rear hubs only necessary when you want 2 degree outboard toe in. For most part the kit hubs are all what you need.

PitCrew

Like others have said,

Get the aluminum front steering knuckles, and the aluminum rear 1 degree hubs.

These I used to break. Not anymore.

F. Mendoza

iTrader: (79)

I abuse my T2s every week. Rear hubs, steering knuckles, and shaft blades are a common replacement. I've lost a few lower king pin bushings also. Hop-ups are battery brace and multi-diff. T2 is a pretty durable car though. It is a good idea to have extra parts for parking lot races, but not a necessity. I buy parts for peace of mind. Hope this helps.