MRX4-R03

iTrader: (-1)

sounds good i think i might give it a try how many drops are u using...

FREAKAH

Several of my engines developed rust on the crank and bearings even when flooded with MMO. Granted these engines had been sitting for over a year but still rusting with all that oil in there is still unacceptable .

Will be trying Bullfrog VCI or CorrosionX soon.

asw7576

Some engines like Novarossi, JP. Sirio, they have silicone putty inside the crankshaft. WD40 and other petrolium products will damage the putty. Ex. the putty become swollen, or come off. Rubber O rings also don't like WD40. They become swollen too.

Only Nitro Fuel, Motor Spray ( Containts Non petrolium ---> Plastic Safe, ), and recommended After Run Oil can be use to clean engine's internals as my recommendation.

asw7576

Marvell ? hehehe

asw7576

That's what I heard too. After Run Oil is perhaps cousin of Automatic Transmission Oil.

Any damage to red putty ( silicone putty ) inside crankshaft ?

I mixed 1 spoon of Slick 50 AT oil into Tornado After Run Oil ( I regret for being smart azz ....) I will let you know the result. My engine have red putty inside.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I don't realy count, I run a few through the carb, then put some down the glow plug hole, and then I take the back off and but some in there too. I also use it when I re-asemble the engine to lube all the contact points for the crank and rod. I would say anywere from 10-15 drops.

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

Synthetic oils are very hygroscopic (?spelling) meaning that they like to absorb moisture. I am not sure that you would want to use synthetic oils just for that one reason. All oils absorb moisture but synthetics are able to hold alot more moisture then normal oils. Just my two cents.

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

Mobil One 5w30 is as good as it gets. Don't waste you money on a tiny dropper bottle of the "magic" formula oil stuff. 90% of it is MMO anyways. Serpent one way lube is even MMO.... wow.... creative marketing there- charge $6 for .50c worth of MMO.

Mugen after run appears to be lightweight synthetic?? I don't really know, but at $5 a bottle my Mobil One 5w30 does the same thing. Plugs burn clean after storage as well.

Don't ever use WD-40... it swells and degrades o-rings and will damage the putty's adhesion in the crank. JP specifically warns against WD-40.

DogboneS

iTrader: (20)

I've only tried the trinity final solution oil, it looks like WD-40. Have switched to Marvel mystery oil which has a smell that mimics cutting fluid for machining. It seems to work well. One step that I do after a session is dump all fuel and flush the tank with alcohol. I also fill the engine carb and crank with plenty of alcohol to disolve the unspent fuel and burnt residue internally. With no glow plug in the engine I turn it over by hand till the alcohol comes out the exhaust about the same clear color as it is going in. I dont let it turn over dry. I then add Marvel oil in the carb and head till everything looks pink and turns smoothly.

Starting after storage, I usually flood the engine with fuel to displace the oil and actually fuel lube the engine. I don't suggest starting the engine with an after run/nitro fuel mix. I believe this will foul the plug right off the bat, and decrease plug life.

I am one to go thru the engine every couple of weeks, if I am using the vehicle often,to clean and check for wear or problems. At that point more alcohol and more oil

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

After-run Oil as in the ones meant specifically to place in your engine will absorb moisture. This is one reason to stick with them vs other oils that you may deem worthy of this task. Some time was spent to ensure that these oils work best with your motor , dont foul up the glow-plug and allow it to prevent rust.

Second , when you take your glow-plug you must clean the heatsink area of any debris otherwise your going to introduce sand into the threads of the heatsink or engine itself. Causing leaks and or engine damage anyhow.

So before doing so take this simple caution either with compressed air , nitro cleaner or just plain ol taking it off and spraying down with wd-40 and wiping it with a q-tip or removing the heatsink alltogether then just wiping around the button head and re-installing then remove glow-plug.

This sounds tedious and I myself have pretty much quit using after-run oil. Ive just switched to the run the motor out of fuel. Then put it back on the starter box , place glow-starter back on and try to start it again. This will normally fire it back up and itll run the last drops of fuel out. Keep the glow-starter on it. I also put my finger on the exhaust tip a few times to help push anything in the lines through.

Motors seem fine to me and its just plain easier to do. But for a little extra security and when the motor is clean I do add in ARO normally asap after a race. But I dont do anything like this during a race or after a qualifier or anything. Just run it down and let it sit till the next race.

Taylorm

-Marvel Mystery oil...
http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,2,1

Dredd

I was always told that if you are going to store the car for more than a few hours (days at a time perhaps) that then you should put after-run in the engine. Otherwise burning all the fuel out and leaving it sit is ok (only for a short time).

Ecleftone

Alright, just got a 2nd hand engine from a guy. He told me he put after run oil into the engine and advised me to flush it out first...

How do i do that?

twiggy

iTrader: (2)

i just run the engine out of fuel then i put a few drops of machine oil through it.
never had a problem.

Ecleftone

But how about after u put after run oil... when u wanna start the engine again, how do u flush the after run oil out?