jhberger

iTrader: (1)

Traction roll is almost always due to too much front grip, but that in itself is a complicated issue. Stiffening up the front is a good solution, as is using a roll bar up front. Less rear droop will limit some weight transfer under braking. Going with no front kickup would be another suggestion. Trail braking only makes it worse, so straight line brakes and neutral or positive throttle in the turn will lessen the tendency. Increasing the front track width may also help.

And there's always outrigger wheels.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah, I can't change the tires since is USVTA rules.

And the grip I can get on the tires is ALOT

sosidge

Try a new set, not a different tyre.

dmowery

Try to just clean the tires with lighter fluid and let dry -just a thought as it worked for me

Spdjunky

iTrader: (16)

Try lowering the inner upper camber link and you could try to lengthen it also.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I tried that initially in the rear, lower the camber link and lengthening it as much as possible. This time when reading that free setup book that xray has, I went the other way to affect roll center and it seemed to really help.

I am thinking of trying the setup I have now with the sway bar in the front, or, stiffening it up a bit, just need to find stiffer springs than what I have now.

As last race I basically now just have a bit of rear wheel lift. when it was really bad, I got pretty good at either dropping it out of a flip, or, doing 2wheel motion.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Actually Cain from my experience you should soften the suspension and try to set the car up with chassis roll. The reason it traction rolls, my theory anyway, is that the car is too stiff and instead of allowing the suspension to soak up some of the body roll it just tumbles over. I have mine set on the softer side and to allow chassis roll and it worked well when I ran it. Yours wanted to roll over everytime you turned the wheel. It was almost painful to watch.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

At this point not sure. I had it setup softer during the day than at the start, and it rolled over easier than in the main which I stiffened things up.

Thinking of looking at VTA TC3 setup sheet to compare common areas between the two and start from there. Can't be any worse I am thinking.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

You are looking for a setup sheet or a car? I'm selling my TC4 that I was running VTA with.

I just read some more of the posts here, another important thing is droop and ride height. Taking away some of the droop might help too.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

updated my post to clarify.

Thanks for the heads up on droop. Funny thing is seems the tire switch I made is really causing some differences. Before I got it down to where it wouldn't traction roll, but the rear if I pushed it REALLY hard would kick out slightly, but the car was great. no traction rolls. Now, with the new tires they seem to be stickier, so up and over I go.

Luke Hobson

I know it's probably been said before.

Generally you want to soften the car up all round (springs) and increase the damping (oils) to slow the roll down
a firmer spring may delay the traction roll but it will just make it bite hard when it does....

You can always raise both your front hinge pin braces and raise front inner camber link to help stop this. This is quite a big change but will definatly help.

Also something people forget is staggering your additive. Rather than 20 mins on all corners, try 30 mins on rear and 10 on front. At some big races we've used it on the front for even less... But that's really just fine tuning tbh.

Hth
Luke

vitomon

hi guys, just stumbled over that thread as i searched for cures to my traction roll problem. we are running ride 32 tires and a i drive a bd5.

as recommended in the thread i softened the springs and went for a 450/500 MM oil. droop is set to 6/5mm under the arms. i tried the kit 1.3 swaybar in front but changed to 1.6 which seemed to better the situation. however, i think due to the chassis plate layout in front of the bd5, i think when the chassis actually touches the surface on the front left/right, the little thingy were the droopscrew touches just barries itself into the carpet causing the car to flip. is that a possibility???

should i go higher ride height? but that would probably increase the risk of traction roll on the other hand too right?

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

I have a TA06 exotek converted. It is VERY narrow. Even more narrow than a Team Magic. The rear is gear drive, and the front is belt driven. I Was running the IFS setup, but it was inconsistant not to mention heavy. This setup however allowed low nose bodies which allowed more steering through the additional traction the front generated. my rear would want to slide out and cause traction roll. I found myself taking the outside line to stay out of the compound soaked hairpin, losing time, but gaining it back slightly on the straight away. I have chosen to go with the standard shock setup and a tc body, I will lay my shocks down one more hole and reduce camber in the front and rear by 1*. A vet at my track reccomended addind camber, but my speed suffered greatly and my tire wear significantly increased.

I am running a 3mm spacer under the ball joint in the front and rear to reduce my roll center, and I cant see being at 4mm... there is nothing on the outside of the chassis and I feel the roll is coming from the over steering and nose dive causing my rear to lift.

I am open to more sugguestions from those familiar with tamiyas in my case.

6376vette

Lowering the roll center will encourage the car to traction roll more. Try raising it. You will reduce rolling and increase the mechanical grip demands of the tires. You may actually start pushing. Increasing camber will help if the side wall of the tire is rolling under in a turn. Adding toe out in the front may help too.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

So reduce the spacing on the roll center adjuster?