15turn vs 17Turn?
07-25-2006, 11:40 PM
#1
15turn vs 17Turn?
Ok, I have a old rooster receiver that supports up to 15turn motors and my rc is slower then my friends 17turn rc. I want to know why my rc with a 15turn motor slower then a 17t motor. Can this be the pinion on the motor? Battery? His rc is much quicker + fast, probably 3x faster than mine and I dont get why? They both are made from Tamiya.
07-25-2006, 11:48 PM
#2
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
there problably a few thing. One your com might need a cut and you might also need new brushes. You also have to look at the overall of each cars. does both has full ball bearings. and do they need cleanning.
There alot of the variable that could cause this.
if you could place what in each car. right down to the electronic and batteries and motors. would be easier to find out why your friend 15turn is faster. Could also be the gearing too.
There alot of the variable that could cause this.
if you could place what in each car. right down to the electronic and batteries and motors. would be easier to find out why your friend 15turn is faster. Could also be the gearing too.
07-26-2006, 12:12 AM
#3
either gearing, batteries, motor condition, or car condition.
match his final drive ratio
spur/pinion X internal ratio=final drive ratio. If you have different gearing you will not be matched in speed.
Try using his batteries. Make that the only thisg you change and see if you can eliminate this from the equation.
cut and rebrush your motor to make sure its in good condition.
Check that nothing is binding in your drive train. Clean/replace bad bearings and check that the diffs aren't bound inside their cases.
Oh, 1 more . . .make sure your esc is set properly to take full advantage of your radios forward trigger range of motion.
match his final drive ratio
spur/pinion X internal ratio=final drive ratio. If you have different gearing you will not be matched in speed.
Try using his batteries. Make that the only thisg you change and see if you can eliminate this from the equation.
cut and rebrush your motor to make sure its in good condition.
Check that nothing is binding in your drive train. Clean/replace bad bearings and check that the diffs aren't bound inside their cases.
Oh, 1 more . . .make sure your esc is set properly to take full advantage of your radios forward trigger range of motion.
07-26-2006, 12:26 AM
#4
I went out and bought a brand new 15turn motor including a venon 3300 pack battery and its still doing the same thing. They both are electric, his body is a little bigger then mine with bigger wheels. mine is a 190mm and his 200mm, would this make a difference? When you guys refer to gearings, you mean my plastic gearings that are inside my dif. where connects to my motor's pinions?
07-26-2006, 11:03 PM
#5
Originally Posted by cyrrus
there problably a few thing. One your com might need a cut and you might also need new brushes. You also have to look at the overall of each cars. does both has full ball bearings. and do they need cleanning.
There alot of the variable that could cause this.
if you could place what in each car. right down to the electronic and batteries and motors. would be easier to find out why your friend 15turn is faster. Could also be the gearing too.
There alot of the variable that could cause this.
if you could place what in each car. right down to the electronic and batteries and motors. would be easier to find out why your friend 15turn is faster. Could also be the gearing too.
Im sorry but im new here: what is a com? The motor is brand new but do I have to do any mods to a new motor? how to break in? Everything on the car is stock including all the plastic gearings.
Does upgrading into a carbonfiber drive shaft increase HP?
07-27-2006, 12:31 AM
#7
Originally Posted by XrayFK
No.
The commutator is the copper part on the top of the armature that the brushes contact to transfer electricity.
The commutator is the copper part on the top of the armature that the brushes contact to transfer electricity.
07-27-2006, 02:45 AM
#8
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
hey thanks for replying for me FK. That is okay that you are new. that what great about this board. Just curious what kind of tamiya cars do and your friend have. shouldn't make a difference but maybe it will. Since you say it is all stock.
Just curious do you have one of those wiper arms speed control that is controled by a servo. or is it an Electronic one.
Just curious do you have one of those wiper arms speed control that is controled by a servo. or is it an Electronic one.
07-27-2006, 03:21 AM
#9
From experience Venom batteries suck, resistor mechanical speed controllers work ok but generally suck , its probably your gearing or meshing the motor pinion to your spur gear too tight!(there should be a little play between the teeth on gears or you are pushing against your motor that will stop it from revving.).
a new motor needs running in unless its already tuned, usually they need running in too, motor will get faster once the brush wears onto the commutator to create more contact to let more electricity through the motor.
If the comm is dirty and black there is little pathway for that power producing electricity.
Also the car you have, try spinning the drivetrain without the motor in , it should spin freely for a few seconds if not more , if not your motor cant turn it as it is meant to. .
a new motor needs running in unless its already tuned, usually they need running in too, motor will get faster once the brush wears onto the commutator to create more contact to let more electricity through the motor.
If the comm is dirty and black there is little pathway for that power producing electricity.
Also the car you have, try spinning the drivetrain without the motor in , it should spin freely for a few seconds if not more , if not your motor cant turn it as it is meant to. .
07-27-2006, 04:44 PM
#10
Originally Posted by cyrrus
hey thanks for replying for me FK. That is okay that you are new. that what great about this board. Just curious what kind of tamiya cars do and your friend have. shouldn't make a difference but maybe it will. Since you say it is all stock.
Just curious do you have one of those wiper arms speed control that is controled by a servo. or is it an Electronic one.
Just curious do you have one of those wiper arms speed control that is controled by a servo. or is it an Electronic one.
It's a Tamiya TL01 electric
07-27-2006, 04:50 PM
#11
Originally Posted by PerformanceRC
From experience Venom batteries suck, resistor mechanical speed controllers work ok but generally suck , its probably your gearing or meshing the motor pinion to your spur gear too tight!(there should be a little play between the teeth on gears or you are pushing against your motor that will stop it from revving.).
a new motor needs running in unless its already tuned, usually they need running in too, motor will get faster once the brush wears onto the commutator to create more contact to let more electricity through the motor.
If the comm is dirty and black there is little pathway for that power producing electricity.
Also the car you have, try spinning the drivetrain without the motor in , it should spin freely for a few seconds if not more , if not your motor cant turn it as it is meant to. .
a new motor needs running in unless its already tuned, usually they need running in too, motor will get faster once the brush wears onto the commutator to create more contact to let more electricity through the motor.
If the comm is dirty and black there is little pathway for that power producing electricity.
Also the car you have, try spinning the drivetrain without the motor in , it should spin freely for a few seconds if not more , if not your motor cant turn it as it is meant to. .
07-27-2006, 04:54 PM
#12
pull the car apart and replace everything that moves on the drivetrain with good bearings.
Bearings are the most important thing.!!!!!!if your car wont roll your motor wont move it and you will kill your motor.
A bigger size pinion will help but the carbon driveshaft is overkill, but its worthy.
Bearings are the most important thing.!!!!!!if your car wont roll your motor wont move it and you will kill your motor.
A bigger size pinion will help but the carbon driveshaft is overkill, but its worthy.
07-27-2006, 09:37 PM
#13
About the pinion, im using the stock one. Should I get a hop-up pinion, something bigger? Do you grease the gears? The dude at the hobby shop told me dont grease the gear it make them dirty just grease the gear shaft? The rear gears were pretty dirty so I wanted to make sure. Also when the ESC heats up maybe after 10 minutes of non stop driving, is it bad? Anything I can do to kinda help ?
Big Progess, after hours installing carbon drive shaft, tunning gears, and bearings, car was fast and the motor is still new so maybe after break in mode hope it'll be faster,and also it sounded really nice almost like a whistling sound like.
I drive my rc for fun and around parking lots, so I wanted the motor to give me both torque and quickness. Should I set the timing clockwise and counterwise and at what #? thanks
Big Progess, after hours installing carbon drive shaft, tunning gears, and bearings, car was fast and the motor is still new so maybe after break in mode hope it'll be faster,and also it sounded really nice almost like a whistling sound like.
I drive my rc for fun and around parking lots, so I wanted the motor to give me both torque and quickness. Should I set the timing clockwise and counterwise and at what #? thanks
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
