powerdrifter

I just finished building the MRX4R
I am trynig to setup the clutch correctly.
First of all the thrust bearing, The Manual says
the larger diameter side should face the bearing.
but both sides look exactly the same to me!
What does the manual mean?

Second, about the shims... I assembled the clutch with no shim,
there is a small play ~0.5mm between the clutch and the bell,
and the bell spins freely. If I put just 1 shim, the bell will lock up and
there is no gap between the clutch and the bell.
Do I have it setup right?

This is my first centax clutch and the manual didn't really say much about
adjusting it. Any help is appreciated!

ND

I'd advise you to use the 200oz servo out of those 2. I don't know much about the Airtronics/Sanwa servos, but make sure they are metal geared as the steering servo take a lot of punishment. I've been using the KO digital servos with the heatsinks and they've been very good.

ND

Hello
The manual for the clutch is not to helpful if you've never built a centax before. What the manual means by the difference size thrust bearing washers is the internal diameter of the hole. Normally one is about 0.1mm smaller than the other, try measuring with a vernier caliper if you have one.

Shimming a centax clutch is quite simple and this is how I do it.

1. Assemble clutch as normal with all bearings, but do not put any shims between either the clucth shoe and clutch bell, or between the clutch bell and thrust race.

2. Using a vernier caliper (digital one is easier) push the clutch bell against the clutch shoe, and measure the distance between the end of the first gear and the end of the thrust bearing holder. Note this reading down

3. Copy the above step but with the clutch bell pulled as far away from the clutch shoe as possible. Note the reading down

4. Subtract the reading in step 3 from the reading in step 2 and this gives you the gap between clutch bell and clutch shoe. Most people tend to run this at 0.4mm

5. Place shims between the thrust bearing and its holder to achieve the gap you require.

6. With the gap set I know shim the clutch bell away from the clutch shoe,
this will stop the clutch bell dragging on the clutch shoe. For this I normally use a thrust bearing washer and as many clutch shims as needed. These shims are placed on the crankshaft before the first bearing goes on. What you want to achieve in this step is the clucth bell to have a slight amount of end float, but not for the clutch bell to be touching the clutch shoe.

This probably sounds very complicated but it really is quite simple. If you have a digital caliper rather than subtracting figures in step 4 you can just zero the caliper after step 2. A few companies make clutch gauges that allow you to measure the gap very simply.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hey guys
im referring to the round plastic screw thing that you guys are uisng to secure your wing to the body ?

looks neat the way you guys make a long long so you can move the wing up and down.

also in the rear floating bodymount what do you screw in the big round holes on either side ?

are these parts extra i cant see them left over in thekit

thanks

ND

The rear wing is Mugen part number H1010, this is the lexan wing and the required plastic screws an nuts. This is an option part.

The screws in the bodymount do not come in the kit, but the ones that fit are the same that we use on the rear wing. I believe the mugen part number for these is H1006

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

Thanks! ill get the mugen wing
do you think the screws that goes into the body mount is worth it ?
Are they just to support the body ?

Thanks

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

the inner diameter of the larger thrust bearing part is 5.15mm while the smaller one is 5.00mm

Delta makes a nice tool to check your clutch setup. Like a previous user said, there are two measurements you need to be concerned with:

1). Clutchbell Endplay..... this is the measurement between the actual clutch disc and the fully extended position of the clutchbell. You must remove the inner clutchbell bearing and shims for this measurement. Lets just say you set this at 0.5mm. That means the clutch shoe must be forced out with centrifugal force 0.5mm for the clutch to engage the clutchbell.

2). Clutch disc to clutchbell clearance..... once you have #1 set, you put the inner shims and bearing back on. Just put on enough shims to get the clutchbell to stop dragging on the disc. Now when you check the endplay as in #1 it will be 0.5mm or less. It cannot be larger than 0.5mm now.

I don't know what you used for a shim or measuring tools, but clutch shims are 0.1mm or 0.2mm, so if you had 0.5mm endplay you could not bind it up with one shim.

Shoot for 0.4mm/0.4mm and you will be in good shape

powerdrifter

Thanks guys for the replies!! I didn't know we are talking about
0.1 mm here... I don't have a digital caliber.. and there's almost no way
for me to notice the 0.15mm difference.

I got one question tho... what "inner shims" are you talking about?
There is no such thing on the manual... on the picture, it didn't
say we have to put shims to the insides behind the bearings.
I read that on the serpent site tho. So, did I miss something
or did the manual skipped the step?

I don't know the thickness of the shim... but all I know is.. once
I add one shim between the thrustbearing and the holder, all the end play
is gone, and the bell is stuck with the clutch. Does using 0 shim with the
new assembly make sense? thanks guys!

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

I add enough shims for preload so when I press the CB inward and turn slightly while holding the flywheel, it won't rub against the shoe. Then, I add enough shims by the thrust bearings so set the gap.

My first truing of the tires!!!!!!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...95#post2303295

ND

Hello

The screws are just to support the body, but they do make a difference depending on how quick your going. Some bodies don't require them, some do. They're not going to make a hugh difference to the handling.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

what do you guys think of this as a hopup

is it a bling factor or does it actaully help in the rigity of the chassis ?

thanks
trying to work out if its worg the money or if i should spend the money on a setup system instead.

thanks

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

I may get it...some say it helps, but you will benefit more from a Hudy setup system instead as you could be running a seriously off-car and not know it. I have.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

thanks for the reply dude
yeh i gave the 1 piece a miss

what do u guys think of the pmb setup systems ?

the hudy is heaps expensive

i only use the setup system to check my toe and steering throw

M7H

what about camber... really important to set that right.....

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

i used the rpm camber gauge to set camber
i find it easier to set the camber at the ride height