23LikesVbc D09
05-14-2017, 11:10 AM
#151
Tech Rookie
Hey guys. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a Wildfire D09 from their website vbcracing.net
What is the difference in the VBC Racing Wildfire D09 1/10 Touring Car Kit
Product.Nr. D05VBCCK25 $290.03 USD
and the
VBC Racing Wildfire D09 1/10 Touring Car Kit + Optional Aluminium Chassis
Product.Nr. D05VBCCK25COMBO-Alu
$454.93 USD.
Besides the addition of the Aluminium Chassis?
Couldn't I buy the kit for $290 and just buy the Aluminum Chassis for $66.93 USD? Or am I missing something or does the +Aluminium Chassis kit come with other items?
That is roughly $100 difference
Thanks in advance.
What is the difference in the VBC Racing Wildfire D09 1/10 Touring Car Kit
Product.Nr. D05VBCCK25 $290.03 USD
and the
VBC Racing Wildfire D09 1/10 Touring Car Kit + Optional Aluminium Chassis
Product.Nr. D05VBCCK25COMBO-Alu
$454.93 USD.
Besides the addition of the Aluminium Chassis?
Couldn't I buy the kit for $290 and just buy the Aluminum Chassis for $66.93 USD? Or am I missing something or does the +Aluminium Chassis kit come with other items?
That is roughly $100 difference
Thanks in advance.
05-30-2017, 03:26 PM
#153
Hearns Hobbies Racing added 9 new photos.
40 mins ·
..
VBC WildFireD09 Dynamics Edition 1:10 Touring Car Kit
PRE ORDER TODAY $620
- Carbon & Alu Chassis included
- New Dynamics and Vertical top deck...
See More
No automatic alt text available.
dynamics d09 available for pre order from hearns hobbies in aus $620.00 aus
good value considering what you get in the kit
40 mins ·
..
VBC WildFireD09 Dynamics Edition 1:10 Touring Car Kit
PRE ORDER TODAY $620
- Carbon & Alu Chassis included
- New Dynamics and Vertical top deck...
See More
No automatic alt text available.
dynamics d09 available for pre order from hearns hobbies in aus $620.00 aus
good value considering what you get in the kit
05-31-2017, 12:18 AM
#154
Tech Rookie
Of course they announce it, when today my wildfire D09 just was delivered.
05-31-2017, 01:45 PM
#155
Half of this options are useless... Not interesting IMHO... You should go for D09 or wait for the next car...
05-31-2017, 02:54 PM
#156
New VBC D09 Dynamics is due next week and quantities are limited, it is now available to order to secure yours. Also 4 new parts are released with the kit.
Pre-orders available via these Authorized VBC resellers: RAB Hobbies, Essential RC, Hearns Hobbies, Ryper Hobbies, Scotty RC, Adelaide RC, Oz RC, Mischief Hobbies,Crazy. Please ask you local hobby shop to contact us if they are interested in stocking VBC products.
- NEW!!! WildFire D09 Dynamics Upper Deck - Refine upper deck chassis roll characteristic and sturdier design to prevent from breakage
- NEW!!! WildFire D09 Dynamics Rear Shock Tower- The shock mounting holes are lowered to achieve lower center gravity
- NEW!!! Universal Lightweight LCG Damper Retainer - Lightweight universal aluminium damper retainer which fits all our WildFire shocks
- WildFireD09 Vertical Upper Deck Set D-05-VBC-0269
- WildFireD09 Aluminum 7075 Chassis B-02-G31311
- WildFireD09 Standard Graphite Chassis A-01-P31255
- LCG Center Balance Weight Set (12.5+18.5gm) D-05-VBC-0246
- WildFire Anti-Tweak Battery Mount D-05-VBC-0250
- WIldFireD09 Steering Chassis Mounted Post Set D-05-VBC-0270
- WildFireD09 8.6g Weight for Suspension Mount FR/RR C-02-G31319
- -0.5 Offset Hex Wheel Hub D-05-VBC-0263
- 2mm Carbon Center Isoflex Linkage (CIL) A-01-G31350
- Steering Block Composite X High Carbon Red A-03-G31384
- WildFire C-Hub Set Composite X High Carbon Red D-05-VBC-0264
- Rear 2-hole Upright Composite X High Carbon Red A-03-G31387
- WildFire Graphite Composite X Suspension Arm Set Red D-05-VBC-024
06-03-2017, 06:27 AM
#157
Hello D09 owners!
Over the past weekend I've been working away with the D09's setup here at Yatabe Arena and found a fairly decent setup. I'll post the setup in the next couple days, I'm still testing other settings to further improve the D09 handling.
Over the past weekend I've been working away with the D09's setup here at Yatabe Arena and found a fairly decent setup. I'll post the setup in the next couple days, I'm still testing other settings to further improve the D09 handling.
06-10-2017, 02:33 PM
#158
4.5mm hexs , new flat top deck and if ur running light the weights and might be good option getting dynamic even the vertical top deck is good in stock classes in low grip
And yes I need about 35-45g adding to my d09
But would like to improve shock tower to shock tower flex with the vertical top deck and working on it will post pics if i end up modifying it
06-10-2017, 03:37 PM
#159
Just did a check of stuff out of the dynamic list I would buy and off the site alone would cost $134.30
Then there are option that could be good ,but could do with out and that's $85.20
And then there is more in the kit
I would go dynamic if I didnt have d09 and a lot of the hot ups already but if I was on a budget the old kit would still be a good car
Then there are option that could be good ,but could do with out and that's $85.20
And then there is more in the kit
I would go dynamic if I didnt have d09 and a lot of the hot ups already but if I was on a budget the old kit would still be a good car
06-12-2017, 02:03 AM
#160
Tech Rookie
umm can anyone tell me if you can use the d09 suspension mounts for the d05?
06-13-2017, 07:15 AM
#161
Tech Initiate
The 2 mount holes are same for D05,06,07,08,09,
Original 3 degree 46.0mm 3 degree
5 dot 45.3mm 2.5 degree
3 dot 44.4mm 2.0 degree
1 dot 43.2mm 1.5 degree
rc-evo.com/xbbs/thread-410542-1-1.html
If you want the same toe- in angle, you can use D08 RR suspension mount.
Last edited by tc3driverhk; 06-13-2017 at 04:23 PM.
06-19-2017, 09:42 AM
#162
VBC D09 Dynamics options
I received my kit and some additional options for my existing D09. Thought I'd update some information on some of the option parts as the descriptions don't address everything about the parts.
The new top deck has been beefed up in the narrow sections, where the original decks where prone to breaking. The new deck is also not drilled for the layshaft screws (although I've never run those screws myself). The only thing you may have to be aware of, is to make sure your motor isn't against the top deck at the back if your using a small spur/small pinion combination, you may have to adjust your gearing combination. On track, the deck seems to give the car a better overall feel, with a nice balance between forward bite and rear side bite.
The new shock tower, has the shock screws lowered about 1mm lower than the previous tower. This gives a little better clearance for the shock body to rotate. If your running the stock spec for the shocks, it also will locate the piston up about 1mm which gives it a different pack feel on the track. Physically it does not lower the assembly in the car at all, just the holes have changed. If you run your shocks with back spacers and adjust the lower spring link, you can get a similar feel. (This rod length adjustment seems to be something new that some racers are playing with to effect piston pack, but that is another subject).
The lower damper retainer. I thought this was just a nice new shiny piece that isn't necessarily needed. But once I saw the part I noticed a couple of things that make this item a good upgrade to consider. The first is that the lip of the retainer is thinner than the stock plastic piece, which means you can add about 2 turns on the shock collar adjuster which is nice as I found that some of the springs I run have very little adjustment to get to minimum ride height. The other thing is the machining of the center section of the retainer now makes it virtually impossible to have a spring jump the perch and jam up. I personally have crashed the car and had a spring jump which made the car handle very strange only to come back to the bench to find that the spring jammed up above the retainer. Another upgrade worth doing, imo.
The chassis mounted steering posts is a must have, and if you haven't converted you car to this yet, its something you should consider. Changing to this makes the steering feel more connected to the car, just a more direct feel than what the floating system feels like.
I have used the VTD on carpet a few times, and on a green track it will give you a bit more bite all around, although I think this item is more geared towards low traction asphalt. In running this I never had a belt jump off and never re-adjusted belt tension from the flat top deck to the VTD. The only thing to be wary of with the VTD, is not to strong arm the threw bolts as the aluminum can easily be twisted and broke.
The red plastics are definitely stiffer than the gold, silver and V2 plastics. Again, they give a more precise feel to the car than the softer plastics have. They also have good durability and I haven't noticed a increase in broken parts over the previous versions.
The rest of items aren't necessarily needed but if your fighting a underweight car or like to keep the tape above the chassis, those items are a nice added bonus.
All in all the D09 is right up there with the rest of the cars available, just for less money.
*** On my newest kit build I did run into one issue, the idler pulley shaft needed to be buffed as the bearings where a really tight fit. I'd suggest to trial fit these pieces prior to final assembly. The rest of the car built with no issues.
More build notes. Don't use the axle shims that are supplied with the front setup, if you use them, when you tighten up the wheel nuts it will bind the drive train up.
With the 4.5mm hexes you should trim back the axle stubs as they stick out quite a ways and can snag board seems easily.
The new top deck has been beefed up in the narrow sections, where the original decks where prone to breaking. The new deck is also not drilled for the layshaft screws (although I've never run those screws myself). The only thing you may have to be aware of, is to make sure your motor isn't against the top deck at the back if your using a small spur/small pinion combination, you may have to adjust your gearing combination. On track, the deck seems to give the car a better overall feel, with a nice balance between forward bite and rear side bite.
The new shock tower, has the shock screws lowered about 1mm lower than the previous tower. This gives a little better clearance for the shock body to rotate. If your running the stock spec for the shocks, it also will locate the piston up about 1mm which gives it a different pack feel on the track. Physically it does not lower the assembly in the car at all, just the holes have changed. If you run your shocks with back spacers and adjust the lower spring link, you can get a similar feel. (This rod length adjustment seems to be something new that some racers are playing with to effect piston pack, but that is another subject).
The lower damper retainer. I thought this was just a nice new shiny piece that isn't necessarily needed. But once I saw the part I noticed a couple of things that make this item a good upgrade to consider. The first is that the lip of the retainer is thinner than the stock plastic piece, which means you can add about 2 turns on the shock collar adjuster which is nice as I found that some of the springs I run have very little adjustment to get to minimum ride height. The other thing is the machining of the center section of the retainer now makes it virtually impossible to have a spring jump the perch and jam up. I personally have crashed the car and had a spring jump which made the car handle very strange only to come back to the bench to find that the spring jammed up above the retainer. Another upgrade worth doing, imo.
The chassis mounted steering posts is a must have, and if you haven't converted you car to this yet, its something you should consider. Changing to this makes the steering feel more connected to the car, just a more direct feel than what the floating system feels like.
I have used the VTD on carpet a few times, and on a green track it will give you a bit more bite all around, although I think this item is more geared towards low traction asphalt. In running this I never had a belt jump off and never re-adjusted belt tension from the flat top deck to the VTD. The only thing to be wary of with the VTD, is not to strong arm the threw bolts as the aluminum can easily be twisted and broke.
The red plastics are definitely stiffer than the gold, silver and V2 plastics. Again, they give a more precise feel to the car than the softer plastics have. They also have good durability and I haven't noticed a increase in broken parts over the previous versions.
The rest of items aren't necessarily needed but if your fighting a underweight car or like to keep the tape above the chassis, those items are a nice added bonus.
All in all the D09 is right up there with the rest of the cars available, just for less money.
*** On my newest kit build I did run into one issue, the idler pulley shaft needed to be buffed as the bearings where a really tight fit. I'd suggest to trial fit these pieces prior to final assembly. The rest of the car built with no issues.
More build notes. Don't use the axle shims that are supplied with the front setup, if you use them, when you tighten up the wheel nuts it will bind the drive train up.
With the 4.5mm hexes you should trim back the axle stubs as they stick out quite a ways and can snag board seems easily.
Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 06-20-2017 at 08:06 AM. Reason: Added build notes.
06-21-2017, 06:38 AM
#163
Tech Rookie
I received my kit and some additional options for my existing D09. Thought I'd update some information on some of the option parts as the descriptions don't address everything about the parts.
The new top deck has been beefed up in the narrow sections, where the original decks where prone to breaking. The new deck is also not drilled for the layshaft screws (although I've never run those screws myself). The only thing you may have to be aware of, is to make sure your motor isn't against the top deck at the back if your using a small spur/small pinion combination, you may have to adjust your gearing combination. On track, the deck seems to give the car a better overall feel, with a nice balance between forward bite and rear side bite.
The new shock tower, has the shock screws lowered about 1mm lower than the previous tower. This gives a little better clearance for the shock body to rotate. If your running the stock spec for the shocks, it also will locate the piston up about 1mm which gives it a different pack feel on the track. Physically it does not lower the assembly in the car at all, just the holes have changed. If you run your shocks with back spacers and adjust the lower spring link, you can get a similar feel. (This rod length adjustment seems to be something new that some racers are playing with to effect piston pack, but that is another subject).
The lower damper retainer. I thought this was just a nice new shiny piece that isn't necessarily needed. But once I saw the part I noticed a couple of things that make this item a good upgrade to consider. The first is that the lip of the retainer is thinner than the stock plastic piece, which means you can add about 2 turns on the shock collar adjuster which is nice as I found that some of the springs I run have very little adjustment to get to minimum ride height. The other thing is the machining of the center section of the retainer now makes it virtually impossible to have a spring jump the perch and jam up. I personally have crashed the car and had a spring jump which made the car handle very strange only to come back to the bench to find that the spring jammed up above the retainer. Another upgrade worth doing, imo.
The chassis mounted steering posts is a must have, and if you haven't converted you car to this yet, its something you should consider. Changing to this makes the steering feel more connected to the car, just a more direct feel than what the floating system feels like.
I have used the VTD on carpet a few times, and on a green track it will give you a bit more bite all around, although I think this item is more geared towards low traction asphalt. In running this I never had a belt jump off and never re-adjusted belt tension from the flat top deck to the VTD. The only thing to be wary of with the VTD, is not to strong arm the threw bolts as the aluminum can easily be twisted and broke.
The red plastics are definitely stiffer than the gold, silver and V2 plastics. Again, they give a more precise feel to the car than the softer plastics have. They also have good durability and I haven't noticed a increase in broken parts over the previous versions.
The rest of items aren't necessarily needed but if your fighting a underweight car or like to keep the tape above the chassis, those items are a nice added bonus.
All in all the D09 is right up there with the rest of the cars available, just for less money.
*** On my newest kit build I did run into one issue, the idler pulley shaft needed to be buffed as the bearings where a really tight fit. I'd suggest to trial fit these pieces prior to final assembly. The rest of the car built with no issues.
More build notes. Don't use the axle shims that are supplied with the front setup, if you use them, when you tighten up the wheel nuts it will bind the drive train up.
With the 4.5mm hexes you should trim back the axle stubs as they stick out quite a ways and can snag board seems easily.
The new top deck has been beefed up in the narrow sections, where the original decks where prone to breaking. The new deck is also not drilled for the layshaft screws (although I've never run those screws myself). The only thing you may have to be aware of, is to make sure your motor isn't against the top deck at the back if your using a small spur/small pinion combination, you may have to adjust your gearing combination. On track, the deck seems to give the car a better overall feel, with a nice balance between forward bite and rear side bite.
The new shock tower, has the shock screws lowered about 1mm lower than the previous tower. This gives a little better clearance for the shock body to rotate. If your running the stock spec for the shocks, it also will locate the piston up about 1mm which gives it a different pack feel on the track. Physically it does not lower the assembly in the car at all, just the holes have changed. If you run your shocks with back spacers and adjust the lower spring link, you can get a similar feel. (This rod length adjustment seems to be something new that some racers are playing with to effect piston pack, but that is another subject).
The lower damper retainer. I thought this was just a nice new shiny piece that isn't necessarily needed. But once I saw the part I noticed a couple of things that make this item a good upgrade to consider. The first is that the lip of the retainer is thinner than the stock plastic piece, which means you can add about 2 turns on the shock collar adjuster which is nice as I found that some of the springs I run have very little adjustment to get to minimum ride height. The other thing is the machining of the center section of the retainer now makes it virtually impossible to have a spring jump the perch and jam up. I personally have crashed the car and had a spring jump which made the car handle very strange only to come back to the bench to find that the spring jammed up above the retainer. Another upgrade worth doing, imo.
The chassis mounted steering posts is a must have, and if you haven't converted you car to this yet, its something you should consider. Changing to this makes the steering feel more connected to the car, just a more direct feel than what the floating system feels like.
I have used the VTD on carpet a few times, and on a green track it will give you a bit more bite all around, although I think this item is more geared towards low traction asphalt. In running this I never had a belt jump off and never re-adjusted belt tension from the flat top deck to the VTD. The only thing to be wary of with the VTD, is not to strong arm the threw bolts as the aluminum can easily be twisted and broke.
The red plastics are definitely stiffer than the gold, silver and V2 plastics. Again, they give a more precise feel to the car than the softer plastics have. They also have good durability and I haven't noticed a increase in broken parts over the previous versions.
The rest of items aren't necessarily needed but if your fighting a underweight car or like to keep the tape above the chassis, those items are a nice added bonus.
All in all the D09 is right up there with the rest of the cars available, just for less money.
*** On my newest kit build I did run into one issue, the idler pulley shaft needed to be buffed as the bearings where a really tight fit. I'd suggest to trial fit these pieces prior to final assembly. The rest of the car built with no issues.
More build notes. Don't use the axle shims that are supplied with the front setup, if you use them, when you tighten up the wheel nuts it will bind the drive train up.
With the 4.5mm hexes you should trim back the axle stubs as they stick out quite a ways and can snag board seems easily.
07-27-2017, 08:56 AM
#164
Ok I would like to hear everyone's opinion. I am currently running the D08, and love the car. My question to everyone is do I upgrade to the D09, is it worth spending the money on the new car. I run mostly outdoor asphalt tracks from small to large size tracks.
07-28-2017, 12:56 AM
#165
Has anybody mount the ARTS kit? Did you install it with the included items? What kind of settings are you using? Reducing toe or increasing toe in curves?