bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Jason, did you weigh your car??? What battery pack do you run ? Try to get as light as possible...

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Lol. Yea I run my car at the min weight. 1550g. Lol. We run. Usvta rules

I have made the changes. Just have to get down to the track

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Sorry Jason , I also wanted to point out that I meant two degrees negative camber all around, not positive in my previous post : I worked too much this week....lol.... I see that you run one degree positive camber up front but sauce only 1/3 of the tire. AE tc4 cars have loose bearings that already cause a one degree gain in camber with minimal lateral push. So you are ending up with two degrees positive camber while turning, too much traction, and huge outside tire wear. On the other hand a negative two degrees camber would end up being one degree negative camber with a more even tire wear, and, with full tire sauce, will give you enough traction to turn... Also, for 1550grams I think Ae blue or silver springs work best.....

hotrod306

What chassis are you guys running ? ( Jason what chassis are you running on that setup ?)

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Quite right on the bearing slop. And I am actually get most of my wear on the inside of the tire currently. And I just replaced my bearings on the front and CA'd the inside of where the bearings go to Eliminate the slop and I had to add a shim behind the outside bearing reduce it more


I am running the factory team carbon version with all of the braces. ( front center and rear) removed

I'll take some pics as soon as I get light and time at the same time

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I am usually only a few second back after 8 min But that is due to mistakes. If the 2 of us dont make a mistake it's a tossup as to who wins. average lap times are about the same

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

You got that car running right Jason... Good luck at next race !

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Thanks,

I will be hitting our indoor track for some testing and maintenance on Wednesday and I will let you all know how it goes.

Just went thru the car last night and made some of the changes and it feels pretty good.

the one Thing I did this year is to centralize the added weight that I need for this class so I have put 126g of lead along the center-line under the drive shaft and I am now .05% from being perfectly side to side balanced and with my battery positions (custom battery locators) I can set the forward/rearward bias from +10% to -10% and a couple places in-between.



So I will be putting a few packs thru this beast and I can't wait

olly986

One thing that I cannot remember reading about in all your threads that could be good to upgrade too, are Losi pistons in shocks, they are defenitely smoother than AEs

hotrod306

what happens when you dont run with a spine board?( i think thats whats it called)
do you get any more grip?
what springs for rtr should i run?(silver can,carpet) thanks

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

The Idea of removing the spline and top plate support posts is to increase flex in the chassis.

Generally (as far as I have found) adding flex helps with low traction conditions

hotrod306

jason and who ever, have you ever raced with tc4 in stock binkey 17,5 class and if so how did you make out vS the tc5,6 newer xrays ect?

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I have not raced this chassis in anything other than VTA

iDChuck

iTrader: (8)

I recently got a FTTC4, and I noticed removing motor screws is a pain in the butt for me. The problem for me is that the arms are in the way, so I would have my hex tools at an angle almost stripping the screws. What are your ways and tips I should know how to remove motor screws when adjusting for mesh.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Generally I only change gearing occasionally but when I do I remove the motor and motor mount with the spur gear and set the mesh on the bench as it is a pain in the behind to adjust in the car

I have done it but with the old style 90 degree hexes. But it's slow