Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Mine were kinda sticking some on one car but not on the other.

Place each ball stud in my dremel.
Spun it while in the actual cup for about 5-10 sec.
Popped the ball cup off and spun the ball stud against a scotch brite pad to polish it.
Spray Liquid Wrench silicone spray on a rag and spun the ball stud on it.

Popped it all back together and no more bind. took about 2 or 3 min each ball stud.

Mind you I tried doing the pinching trick, tried multiple things. This method proved the most consistent and reliable. Also it was weird. One car had zero binding, one car had every cup binding. So I completely understand why some guys were complaining about it earlier while others were saying they had none.

*queue 4 pages of ball cup talks starting............. now*

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

hmm, he had a shorty servo too. All I have is light weight slipper, topshaft, some ti screws, alum hexes, alum shock caps, alum rack, alum front hexes, alum rear ball stud mount and ft axles. No pucks and I am 1570. I would think he was lighter with pucks. oh and I use chassis tape. Regardless. I like the car in the mid 1500's. If I ever add pucks, I will probably try to get more weight in the rear. maybe the front brass suspension holder. seems like a good place for weight. I have never ever likes a super light car. And as bumpy as nats was, I would think more weight was more planted.

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Who makes the Xpert servos?

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Xpert makes their own and you can get them from shop viper.

Some nice new stuff on the way too but gotta stay tight lipped!

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

I had the metal caps but noticed oil pooling around the upper shock bushing and couldn't figure out why. I cleaned and was refilling the shock and when I went to push the shaft up with cap on and the bleed screw still in, noticed oil weeping out the cap inside the shock bushing eye. didn't see a noticeable crack or hole but it was weeping. weirdest thing... i put the plastic back on and have no issues. I use the FT shock mount and bushings.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Hmm, interesting. I wonder if the FT shock mounts and balls keep the cap from wearing out so fast. Mine were sloppy as hell after a couple weekends. But the alum caps on the original shock mounts from the kit and no slop. So I can only conclude all of the slop was in the plastic cap.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

But the BS thing about it all was the attacking of people that had a legitimate issue. The pinch method was BS and I'll tell it to the face of our locals that posted it was the best thing since sliced bread. 5 kits and 5 pos sets of ball cups but im sure we all did something wrong......lol. Thanks for the tip. Glad I kept my Yokomo hardware if this doesn't work.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

If I were AE I would come out with a FT ball cup reamer for the cups lol. so people could free them up to their liking....plus AE could make some money off the FT tool

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Or go back to the old ballstud size so rpm's will work.....lol

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

you can always use tlr studs and cups. maybe even your yokomo stuff. If you have the 2inch links even better. Because the TLR stuff is shorter. Anyway, I like the idea behind the AE stuff and once it breaks in, its better. Mine are 6 months old and have no slop. And are the fairly free. Not tlr free, but free "enough"

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

Were the top 2 in stock buggy at nats running mid-motor? B5M? I bought a B5 rear motor to build a stock car. Is mid the way to go now? lol Might sell it anyways and get a wheeler instead if anyone is looking for a real nice B5 rear motor car.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

MM took 1st and second. And both were B5M's. The RM car were much better until the traction came way up. Also, once the track started to rut, having the alum chassis down low helped keep the cars from bouncing all over. There were RM cars in the Amain and in the better drivers won. And they probably would have won with an RM car also.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Wild Cherry

A diff gets gritty two ways.

First is slipping

then bad thrust

Slipping is from running too loose, run it tight.
Learn what tight feels like by checking the fast cars your self.

Then make sure the slipper is not locked or too tight .

Thrust goes bad from being tighten down to hard . Easy to break or crush the part.
Then in dusty conditions easy to pack the thrush with dirt and ruin the part.
Can use a little swab of cotton off a Q tip before installing cover to stop that from occurring.

Just some of my experience with ball diff's.
Know all about gear diff too, run 1/8 scale & Short Bus

Think both diff's have their strengths and weaknesses.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

Good info, first time I have seen and actually it spelled out to make sense. Thanks