4LikesXray t4'15
03-02-2015, 07:27 PM
#1036
TITC 2015 A Main Modified Class Finals 1 & 2
Cant locate finals 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0bTI0D6GC0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TO9KTCHC2_k
Cant locate finals 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0bTI0D6GC0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TO9KTCHC2_k
03-02-2015, 11:20 PM
#1037
Tech Adept
I personally go back and forth with a front gear diff. Currently, it's on the car. 2.5mil cst in it. I dont ever recommend putty or ear plugs, as they break down over time and makes the diff really really inconsistent.
I use the diff when I want more corner entry steering, and less on power steering. It also seems to suit my driving style better, as I usually go in really deep into a corner, and expect the car to rotate on command. Others with a more "Refined" and "smoother" driving style might not benefit from this as much. I personally like it. I used it yesterday, and from the qual to main only switched the rear diff fluid and went up to 3k from 800, and lengthened all the camber links. car rotated well, had plenty of steering and was stable. very consistant. I also run a different spring package then anyone at my track atleast, but I have it working quite well for me. I also ran some new, other parts for the car, but that isn't on point here.
I would use the diff as a tuning tool like anything else. I can see it benefiting what I outlined above, especially on more technical tracks or ones with tight turns when you want more entry steering.
I use the diff when I want more corner entry steering, and less on power steering. It also seems to suit my driving style better, as I usually go in really deep into a corner, and expect the car to rotate on command. Others with a more "Refined" and "smoother" driving style might not benefit from this as much. I personally like it. I used it yesterday, and from the qual to main only switched the rear diff fluid and went up to 3k from 800, and lengthened all the camber links. car rotated well, had plenty of steering and was stable. very consistant. I also run a different spring package then anyone at my track atleast, but I have it working quite well for me. I also ran some new, other parts for the car, but that isn't on point here.
I would use the diff as a tuning tool like anything else. I can see it benefiting what I outlined above, especially on more technical tracks or ones with tight turns when you want more entry steering.
03-03-2015, 07:11 AM
#1038
TITC 2015 A Main Modified Class Finals 1 & 2
Cant locate finals 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0bTI0D6GC0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TO9KTCHC2_k
Cant locate finals 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0bTI0D6GC0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TO9KTCHC2_k
| + YouTube Video | |
03-03-2015, 03:20 PM
#1039
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
People have commented about this in other threads. I think (from personal experience) right now the Tamiya ECS shafts are the strongest on the market (Yokomo are pretty much on par with Xray). They have the same axle length and there are a few options for dogbone length (you can buy bits separately and mix and match).
The problem is the fit in the outdrive. Xray's outdrives are 1mm larger than the Tamiya dogbone end.
One way to get around this is to use a T1 spool (which is 5mm inside the outdrive and fits the Tamiya dogbone directly) or insert a brass collar in the current Aluminium Xray outdrive and cut the driving slots in it.
The problem is the fit in the outdrive. Xray's outdrives are 1mm larger than the Tamiya dogbone end.
One way to get around this is to use a T1 spool (which is 5mm inside the outdrive and fits the Tamiya dogbone directly) or insert a brass collar in the current Aluminium Xray outdrive and cut the driving slots in it.
03-04-2015, 01:41 AM
#1044
So the total amount of ths shock rod showing should be 9.2-9.5mm
03-04-2015, 03:22 AM
#1045
Tech Regular
Guys,
I have a question about my shock ball joints and my pivot balls on my T4 2015. I have read the manual very very closely and still I don't get it. I also have been asking this on rctech before, but pics and videos might clear things up.
The situation how I have my shocks installed is:
Top part of the shock, shiny part pointed TOWARDS the pivot ball.
Bottom part of the shock, shiny part pointed AWAY from the pivot ball.
Now this; I try to move my ball joints freely over the pivot balls, but on the top part of the shock, the ball joint does not move freely. I mean by that, it some sort of "sits" at the base of the pivot ball. When I try to wiggle it, it has a restricted movement. But when I pull it out a little bit, the ball joint moves freely. It looks like it "clicks" into place when I don't pull the shock out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scnQfYRk_ho (The worn tires are just there for other reasons...)
Is this normal what you see on the video?
If not, could anyone tell me what's wrong here?
Thanks in advance.
I have a question about my shock ball joints and my pivot balls on my T4 2015. I have read the manual very very closely and still I don't get it. I also have been asking this on rctech before, but pics and videos might clear things up.
The situation how I have my shocks installed is:
Top part of the shock, shiny part pointed TOWARDS the pivot ball.
Bottom part of the shock, shiny part pointed AWAY from the pivot ball.
Now this; I try to move my ball joints freely over the pivot balls, but on the top part of the shock, the ball joint does not move freely. I mean by that, it some sort of "sits" at the base of the pivot ball. When I try to wiggle it, it has a restricted movement. But when I pull it out a little bit, the ball joint moves freely. It looks like it "clicks" into place when I don't pull the shock out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scnQfYRk_ho (The worn tires are just there for other reasons...)
Is this normal what you see on the video?
If not, could anyone tell me what's wrong here?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Govert; 03-04-2015 at 04:49 AM. Reason: typo
03-04-2015, 04:18 AM
#1046
Hi Govert,
Looking at the picture, it appears you have the pivot ball in the top eyelet backwards. If you look closely at the opening where the pivot ball goes, you can see a ring around it. That ring is supposed to face the side of the pivot ball that has the flat on it. Yours currently faces outward/the side of the pivot ball that the hex is on.
You can easily identify this by the vent hole on the top eyelet. It's kinda hard to tell in the pic but I think I can see it. That should be facing the shock tower.
Looking at the picture, it appears you have the pivot ball in the top eyelet backwards. If you look closely at the opening where the pivot ball goes, you can see a ring around it. That ring is supposed to face the side of the pivot ball that has the flat on it. Yours currently faces outward/the side of the pivot ball that the hex is on.
You can easily identify this by the vent hole on the top eyelet. It's kinda hard to tell in the pic but I think I can see it. That should be facing the shock tower.
03-04-2015, 04:46 AM
#1047
Tech Regular
Thank you for your answer Dodge.
Well, the vent holes are pointed towards the shock tower(s). I can understand the confusion, because it seems like there's this shiny ring on the outside of the top eyelet. It actually is a mark of a shim/spacer I used to pop the pivot in the eyelet (like the manual is pointing out). The bottom eyelet has the shiny side pointed outward, as you can see.
So the shiny side of the eyelet is pointing towards shock tower, as wel as the vent hole...
Well, the vent holes are pointed towards the shock tower(s). I can understand the confusion, because it seems like there's this shiny ring on the outside of the top eyelet. It actually is a mark of a shim/spacer I used to pop the pivot in the eyelet (like the manual is pointing out). The bottom eyelet has the shiny side pointed outward, as you can see.
So the shiny side of the eyelet is pointing towards shock tower, as wel as the vent hole...
03-04-2015, 04:53 AM
#1048
Thank you for your answer Dodge.
Well, the vent holes are pointed towards the shock tower(s). I can understand the confusion, because it seems like there's this shiny ring on the outside. It actually is a mark of a shim I used to pop the pivot in the eyelet (like the manual is pointing out).
So the shiny side of the eyelet is pointing towards shock tower, as wel as the vent hole...
Well, the vent holes are pointed towards the shock tower(s). I can understand the confusion, because it seems like there's this shiny ring on the outside. It actually is a mark of a shim I used to pop the pivot in the eyelet (like the manual is pointing out).
So the shiny side of the eyelet is pointing towards shock tower, as wel as the vent hole...
Edit: Just got a chance to watch the vid but I don't have sound. The movement looks fine when you pull it out, as you say. It's hard to tell what is going on with that clicking into place that you mention. Mine move pretty freely no matter where they sit on the pivot ball; whether it be back against the flat, or up on the front of the ball. I always polish all my pivot balls though. I'm not sure if this might be part of the reason yours don't feel smooth to you, but it is worth doing regardless. I'm honestly kinda stumped otherwise. Only other explanation in my mind would be a bad shock top but it's hard to imagine there would be 4 bad ones in a new kit.
03-04-2015, 04:58 AM
#1049
Tech Regular
Yes, all four are doing this. And yes, this is a new 2015 kit. Very strange to me as well.
I'm not a novice builder, so I can exclude any stupidity from my side in regards to overtightening/forcing/deforming any parts. So this is strange indeed.
I'm not a novice builder, so I can exclude any stupidity from my side in regards to overtightening/forcing/deforming any parts. So this is strange indeed.
03-04-2015, 05:02 AM
#1050
Yea, it would be really hard to mess up the plastic there. I edited/added more to my previous post after getting to actually see the vid. I'm not sure if that might help you at all. Just want to make sure you see it.