Tamiya Direct Drive Touring Car
#1171
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
I run the .04 Gears and have never had a durability issue. If you set the mesh right they will last a long time. I beleive that I had one last two outdoor seasons way back when.
#1173
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Howard,
What TCS race will you be attending? I is there one in the Chicago area soon? I watched you at at the Trackside race the day after you built your car. I thought it got better as the weekend went on. I forget his name, but who was that guy that won the trackside race? He looked real fast. Why didn't you set your car like his was?
If the're is a race comimg to the Chicago area I think I will by one of those f103gt cars and give it a try. Plz let me know.
radar... ping...
What TCS race will you be attending? I is there one in the Chicago area soon? I watched you at at the Trackside race the day after you built your car. I thought it got better as the weekend went on. I forget his name, but who was that guy that won the trackside race? He looked real fast. Why didn't you set your car like his was?
If the're is a race comimg to the Chicago area I think I will by one of those f103gt cars and give it a try. Plz let me know.
radar... ping...
Oh...the person who won that race is Marty Hageman (414MPH is his user name here @ Rctech), he is the F103 guru (original F103 chassis and their later model)..........he drives good and he has all the knowledge about this thing inside and out....of couse I wish I can copy some of his setup and motor tunning skill...but I have only limited of time, and I do rather enjoy the racing instead of pulling my hair and try to get this simple car more complicated.
At least, he told me about the gearing (I was overgeared on the 1st run) and he told me about the BODY modification (cut those cool looking front spoiler off...I did not listen on my 1st run and I paid the price afterall...car was stuck onto the sandbag/dots once I hit those...LOL).
I don't think there will be ANY TCS race here in Mid West beside Trackside....at least, no local track here (HNH, Harbor....etc) are interested to host any, so there are none in Chicago. I am planning to go to the North America Final @ the Tamiya Track for 1 last time (my 1st and last for sure @ that track..) And I am practicing my GT now !@ HNH and Harbor Winthrop tonight (carpet) and practice outdoor @ Leisure Hour Raceway @ Joliet. (Outdoor)
#1174
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
As long as you are not over heating the spur gear...that adaptor is a good investment instead of buy the Kawahara special spur gear...
That O-ring is very similar to the HPI Purple Spur gear...you can see a pic from TOWER....just white instead of purple.
#1175
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Can you guys share more information about building the rear ball diff with 3 cone washer modification and/or with the Tamiya Trust bearing...?
So far, I have kept my diff stock....it is a little bit too SMOOTH and a little loose to my taste. I have no trouble running the car but I have seen you guys mentioned 3 washer (instead of 2) combine with the Tamiya Trust bearing setup....I would like to try that..thanks.
So far, I have kept my diff stock....it is a little bit too SMOOTH and a little loose to my taste. I have no trouble running the car but I have seen you guys mentioned 3 washer (instead of 2) combine with the Tamiya Trust bearing setup....I would like to try that..thanks.
#1176
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Yeah, those are the adaptors to replace one of the 1260 bearings inside the diff housing.
Regarding the diff assembly, I suggest that you tighten the lock nut so that the diff rings just lightly touching the balls, without any slippages. Do a few test to get the best results.
Alfie
Regarding the diff assembly, I suggest that you tighten the lock nut so that the diff rings just lightly touching the balls, without any slippages. Do a few test to get the best results.
Alfie
I have the KARAHARA spur gear adaptor.....like $5 US (very expensive plastic o-ring..LOL)...it is just a little white plastic O-ring place it into any brand spur gear (fit Kimbough and Robinson) then insert the stock Tamiya spur gear bearing...it is basicly a adaptor to fit the bearing from Tamiya onto any typical 3rd market spur gear...
As long as you are not over heating the spur gear...that adaptor is a good investment instead of buy the Kawahara special spur gear...
That O-ring is very similar to the HPI Purple Spur gear...you can see a pic from TOWER....just white instead of purple.
As long as you are not over heating the spur gear...that adaptor is a good investment instead of buy the Kawahara special spur gear...
That O-ring is very similar to the HPI Purple Spur gear...you can see a pic from TOWER....just white instead of purple.
#1177
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Hey Solara!
Check out this picture.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Check out this picture.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Can you guys share more information about building the rear ball diff with 3 cone washer modification and/or with the Tamiya Trust bearing...?
So far, I have kept my diff stock....it is a little bit too SMOOTH and a little loose to my taste. I have no trouble running the car but I have seen you guys mentioned 3 washer (instead of 2) combine with the Tamiya Trust bearing setup....I would like to try that..thanks.
So far, I have kept my diff stock....it is a little bit too SMOOTH and a little loose to my taste. I have no trouble running the car but I have seen you guys mentioned 3 washer (instead of 2) combine with the Tamiya Trust bearing setup....I would like to try that..thanks.
#1178
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Thanks Alfie....that diagram really help. However, question back to you...I think I did something like that awhile ago (just the heck of it)...am I suppose to replace the ball bearing (On manuel, step 16, ball bearing item MD3 - the most outer ball bearing, with the trust bearing...then the 3 cone washer..?
Just want to make sure...cause I know for sure, the shaft is not LONG enough to place the trust bearing and WITH the MD3 ball bearing and the 3 washers, the spacer and the end nut...
Just want to make sure...cause I know for sure, the shaft is not LONG enough to place the trust bearing and WITH the MD3 ball bearing and the 3 washers, the spacer and the end nut...
#1179
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Hey Solara!
Just remove the 1150 bearing from the diff housing and replace it with the thrust bearing and thick washers (on both sides of the thrust bearing).
After which, place those tapered washers into position as illustrated.
Also, do make sure that the nylon material built-into the lock nut (at the end of the assembly) must be new, if not good and tight. Otherwise you will get it loose in no time. And if you use a low gear ratio, you will also risk loosening the locknut as there's too much torque.
Hope all these helps!
Alfie
Just remove the 1150 bearing from the diff housing and replace it with the thrust bearing and thick washers (on both sides of the thrust bearing).
After which, place those tapered washers into position as illustrated.
Also, do make sure that the nylon material built-into the lock nut (at the end of the assembly) must be new, if not good and tight. Otherwise you will get it loose in no time. And if you use a low gear ratio, you will also risk loosening the locknut as there's too much torque.
Hope all these helps!
Alfie
Thanks Alfie....that diagram really help. However, question back to you...I think I did something like that awhile ago (just the heck of it)...am I suppose to replace the ball bearing (On manuel, step 16, ball bearing item MD3 - the most outer ball bearing, with the trust bearing...then the 3 cone washer..?
Just want to make sure...cause I know for sure, the shaft is not LONG enough to place the trust bearing and WITH the MD3 ball bearing and the 3 washers, the spacer and the end nut...
Just want to make sure...cause I know for sure, the shaft is not LONG enough to place the trust bearing and WITH the MD3 ball bearing and the 3 washers, the spacer and the end nut...
#1180
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
In the older pan cars and the Trinity Street Spec, it was recommended to use a nylon nut rather than the metal with the nylon insert. If you took a real hard hit with the weight of the metal axle, the metal nut would sometimes strip the threads on the axle. The nylon would have to be replaced often but the axle was preserved.
Have you ever bent the rear axle on the F103gt?
Have you ever bent the rear axle on the F103gt?
#1181
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Basically those rear shaft and hubs do bend when some cars hit mine or when I crashed into the side of the curbs at high speed. That was when I hadn't got used to the speed and handling some time back.
I am careful with my GT now, and tend to keep my car off the curbs to save some bucks. Though the parts are affordable on this car, but saving on money for spares in terms of replacements for worn ones is still a better idea. No point crashing out and burning some banknotes.
The Nylon Nut idea is good, but in terms of a Tourer's wheels and tires that added to the stress level of those shafts on the rear end, I think it's only natural that something's gotta give. Pan cars are on foams, so the absorption upon impact is better.
I remember when I was running my RC10L3 Touring with Foams one day and I didn't see a cyclist coming my car's way, it strucked into the front wheel of the bicycle. The cyclist went over my RC10L3, with both wheels. Nothing broke. I picked up my car and found a bent Rear Graphite Shaft.
Alfie
I am careful with my GT now, and tend to keep my car off the curbs to save some bucks. Though the parts are affordable on this car, but saving on money for spares in terms of replacements for worn ones is still a better idea. No point crashing out and burning some banknotes.
The Nylon Nut idea is good, but in terms of a Tourer's wheels and tires that added to the stress level of those shafts on the rear end, I think it's only natural that something's gotta give. Pan cars are on foams, so the absorption upon impact is better.
I remember when I was running my RC10L3 Touring with Foams one day and I didn't see a cyclist coming my car's way, it strucked into the front wheel of the bicycle. The cyclist went over my RC10L3, with both wheels. Nothing broke. I picked up my car and found a bent Rear Graphite Shaft.
Alfie
In the older pan cars and the Trinity Street Spec, it was recommended to use a nylon nut rather than the metal with the nylon insert. If you took a real hard hit with the weight of the metal axle, the metal nut would sometimes strip the threads on the axle. The nylon would have to be replaced often but the axle was preserved.
Have you ever bent the rear axle on the F103gt?
Have you ever bent the rear axle on the F103gt?
#1182
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
I have just begun to build my f103gt. The Tamiya rear shaft may be better than the steel shaft of the Street Spec. When we ran oval on carpet with the Street Spec it wasn't unusual to come away from a crash with a bent rear shaft. I was always suprised at this. We also went through bearings carrying the rear shaft at a fast rate.
#1183
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Hey MD,
Just remember not to be tempted by those "Blinged" rear shafts. I have seen and experienced all sorts of nonsense. Titanium bends, but slightly harder than aluminium ones. Carbon will break like chopsticks, upon hard impact.
The steel ones are still the best. Their weight also help to keep the rear end of the car down.
Alfie
Just remember not to be tempted by those "Blinged" rear shafts. I have seen and experienced all sorts of nonsense. Titanium bends, but slightly harder than aluminium ones. Carbon will break like chopsticks, upon hard impact.
The steel ones are still the best. Their weight also help to keep the rear end of the car down.
Alfie
I have just begun to build my f103gt. The Tamiya rear shaft may be better than the steel shaft of the Street Spec. When we ran oval on carpet with the Street Spec it wasn't unusual to come away from a crash with a bent rear shaft. I was always suprised at this. We also went through bearings carrying the rear shaft at a fast rate.
#1185
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
I think you're correct about the wieght of the axle for this car in the parking lot especially. I think in past years the fiberglass axles were best, because the didn't break as easily as the graphite and had a little flex. They were also reasonbly priced and light.
Thanks for all o your ideas, Alfie.
Thanks for all o your ideas, Alfie.