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Old 07-08-2003, 08:34 PM
  #2491  
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Are you talking about Revelation Raceway in calif.?
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:39 PM
  #2492  
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A pic of the front shocks of my Impulse PRO. I mounted the Lola bumper and modified the front upper bumper support plate in order that the Lola body fits correctly.
Heheheheh.....InitialD
that looks like my modified front upper bumper for a Lola body too!! Did the same thing.
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:42 PM
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So the top holes are not even used.Is the brace used for reinforcement of the block?
Pit,
you can use the top holes of that shock tower......its a matter of preference.

And yes, it acts like a shock brace stiffener.
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:45 PM
  #2494  
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Hey D!
Is it Friday already!?!? You are posting Pictures!!
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:46 PM
  #2495  
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Default Re: Re: Rear Shock Tower (Serpent 705)

Originally posted by Pit-racer
So the top holes are not even used.Is the brace used for reinforcement of the block?
and are you using orange on all 4 corners?
Well, kinda... I have not tried the upper hole. I have checked with the stock rear shock tower and the hole on this 808139 shock tower is right in the middle between the mounting hole and the 1st hole shock mounting of the stock rear shock tower. You could drill an extra hole there and mount your rear shocks to see if you like the angle.

The shock springs I'm using are red all round. Veteq red springs. I think it's a trick on Mark's Photoshop filter to fool around and change things and colours as you really see them...
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:46 PM
  #2496  
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Default Re: Re: Rear Shock Tower (Serpent 705)

Originally posted by Pit-racer
So the top holes are not even used.Is the brace used for reinforcement of the block?
and are you using orange on all 4 corners?
I mounted on the top hole, did tried on the bottom, but for me i prefer the top, a lil stiffer but yet soft. I tried each setting on different qualifier.

But then again, u cannot follow blindly, its all depends on the track you are running. Just a though.
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:47 PM
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Originally posted by PUNISHER
Hey D!
Is it Friday already!?!? You are posting Pictures!!
Every day is FRIDAY
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:47 PM
  #2498  
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Originally posted by PUNISHER
Heheheheh.....InitialD
that looks like my modified front upper bumper for a Lola body too!! Did the same thing.
Great minds think alike but then again fools seldom differ...
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:51 PM
  #2499  
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Originally posted by modellor
Yep, and all but one of those scenario is used by me.


.5amps is all I would charge any RC Car battery at.
I charge at a maximum of 50mah most of the time
You are truly amazing. You sure can change your claim faster than I can turn the steering wheel on my radio. So how much current do you change your batteries at, .5A or .05A ? If it is 0.05A, I want to get the same charger as yours. I couldn’t find a charger has that low current output anywhere.

I dont use anything more on the car than is needed to make it move (no failsafes, etc - just TRS's).
Even with only the receiver and two analog servos, at normal use, the current drawn from the battery is around is 280mAH, this is not low to me at all. Mr. Nizee didn’t define what is low in his scenarios, maybe he can shard some light on this.

Humidity here is pretty low
Humidity at Ireland is at an average of 85%, If you consider it as low, there is nothing I could say. And I suppose you run your 1/8th scale car in the damp-proof area too.

Just my observations.

WT
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:54 PM
  #2500  
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Originally posted by spawn
Hah! try not to run your Snake there, even I have broken my EP right arm + bend doggy bone when I scrape the sidewall while trying to take the high speed bend. Mistakes at that track are costly. You have been the number 1,XXX,XXXX victim of the sidewall!.
You're right That track is a sure killer fro nitro cars. Excellent for stock 23 turn EPs. But the devil in me decided to run there for the first time... Yes, with a Lola shell Well, at least I can say I did my part to help the LHS a little
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:56 PM
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Originally posted by nizee
It is not call "Oxidization". Physic and Electronics term call it "Crystalization".


I think we are talking about two different things. Crystallization due to over charging degrades the performance of the battery but rarely destroys the electrode plates inside the battery. I am talking about the deterioration of the separator due to oxidation. This is the most common failure mode found on Ni-Cd batteries.

CAF growth occurs along the glass fiber/resin on regular FR-4 material used in PCB fabrication. The conditions and materials involved are totally different from that of the Ni-Cd batteries; I think it is not correct to relate those two phenomena to each other.

effect amount the PCB engineer are facing problem today for designing high density multilayer fine pitch BGA?
Seems redundant to me, high density or fine pitch should be enough, but it sure does sounds better and impressive. With proper circuit layout, substrate material selection and board fabrication, CAF growth can be eliminated. I can’t believe some PCB engineers are still having problem with that. Hope this helps.

1)The applied voltage drawn from it or the charge is low.
Don’t understand this. You mean to charge the battery below its normal 1.2V ?

2) The applied current drawn from it or the charge is low.
Unless he is using a ultra low power consummation receiver/servo system, otherwise this scenario will not happen.

3) He or She do not use it regularly.
Possibe, if 1) and 2) above was realized. It would take He or She forever to charge or discharge, he or she will not be able to use it regularly.

4) Keep the charge rate at normal discharge stage not Full charge.
Don’t understand this.

5) Low humidity places
Maybe.

I am really having doubt about any Ni-Cd battery, under normal use, in a R/C nitro car environment (heat, vibration, shocks) can last 16 years. But if you think if is possible and is indeed common, then so be it.

By the way, throwing scientific/engineering terms, acronyms like CAF, BGA……ETC. ETC.) on the forum sure sounds impressive but it is not necessary. This is only a R/C car forum on the internet, it would not help you get anywhere. You should throw those out on your resume or when you are having a job interview. Hope this helps.

Just my thoughts

WT
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:01 PM
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Originally posted by InitialD
Great minds think alike but then again fools seldom differ...

Very true........

OK..thats enough a$$ kissing on this thread. We dont want this thread turn into the MTX3 thread!!
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:01 PM
  #2503  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Hi there, please don't take it the wrong way. The original message and advise was intended for supra528. If you look at his post for help on the car, you'll know that he may not be too familiar with things.

I went through that and I thought I would just share what could happen if you mess up with things. As you know, the what if situations can come when you do not need them the most. Shit happens. Just sharing my personal experience.

If I underestimated supra528's capabilities, my apologies. For all we know, he may have a job like what nizee is having... Doing soldering work for a living If he's just daring enough to want to try it out and solder the pack for himself, why not. My advise is open. If you want it, take it. If you feel it's ridiculous, then just ignore. I won't take heart to that.
I didn’t take it at any ways, right or wrong. I just told you what I think. Not to underestimate other’s ability to learn and understand, nothing more. Sure you have help people a lot on the matter of RC, but you also discourage a lot too, just read you own posts sometime.

Shit does happen, but you cannot predict everything, expecting what could happen and what would should be done about it. Too many “what if” can only slow you down.

To me, it is not a matter of saving $5 or not, it is a matter of doing it, experiencing the hobby, and learning and enjoying at the same time.

Too bad I can only come out and play at night for a short while without getting into trouble, otherwise it would be fun trading ideas or crossing words with you.


Cheers~~~

Just my thoughts

WT
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:11 PM
  #2504  
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Jump 7 Miles,
Who took the jam out of your donut!?!?

Calm down......no one here is claming to know it all!
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:21 PM
  #2505  
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Originally posted by Jump 7 Miles


I think we are talking about two different things. Crystallization due to over charging degrades the performance of the battery but rarely destroys the electrode plates inside the battery. I am talking about the deterioration of the separator due to oxidation. This is the most common failure mode found on Ni-Cd batteries.
Originally posted by Jump 7 Miles

CAF growth occurs along the glass fiber/resin on regular FR-4 material used in PCB fabrication. The conditions and materials involved are totally different from that of the Ni-Cd batteries; I think it is not correct to relate those two phenomena to each other.

Originally posted by Jump 7 Miles


Seems redundant to me, high density or fine pitch should be enough, but it sure does sounds better and impressive. With proper circuit layout, substrate material selection and board fabrication, CAF growth can be eliminated. I can’t believe some PCB engineers are still having problem with that. Hope this helps.

Originally posted by Jump 7 Miles

Don’t understand this. You mean to charge the battery below its normal 1.2V ?

Unless he is using a ultra low power consummation receiver/servo system, otherwise this scenario will not happen.

Possibe, if 1) and 2) above was realized. It would take He or She forever to charge or discharge, he or she will not be able to use it regularly.

Don’t understand this.
Deleted.

Not paid to answer all this for debate.

Last edited by nizee; 07-09-2003 at 01:27 PM.
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