WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys,

I've just ordered some aluminum screws for Xray T3 and I'm not sure what the best locations are for the aluminum. Has anyone used aluminum in EVERY single spot on their TC? Would they hold up on camber links, steering knuckles and such? I'm thinking of using them in areas like the shock tower mounts, servo mounts, and other seemingly low stress areas. Any tips on do's and don'ts?

tc3team

I would not use them for camber links and steering knuckles, as I would class them as a high load area.

Shock towers "should" be ok, but im not a massive fan of alu screws in general. I'd choose titanium over alu any day (imo).

NEED-MORE-SPEED

iTrader: (11)

I use stainless steel screws on high stress areas such as (Top Deck, Shock Towers, Upper and Lower Bulkhead, Motor Mount, Lay-Shaft Mount) as you want those tight as possible to help from tweaking due to an impact.

Aluminum screws tend to strip or bend easier than stainless steel, also you cant tighten down those areas mentioned above like you can when using stainless. Don't get me wrong, you don't want to tighten everything like your going to blast off to the moon, however I like those areas pretty snug and using stainless steal is great insurance over the aluminum...

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

I'll put them up high and keep the steel on the chassis level. Have to add weight to most TCs anyway so might as well keep the steel in the chassis. Shock tower, top deck, areas like that is where I'll put Al. I don't think I'd use them on camber links, steering knuckles, even though you'd probably be fine, the moment arm is low enough and it'd take quite a bit to shear the screw. Tie rods are aluminum and there is usually no issue, although they're in most cases in direct compression/tension.

Put a little grease/oil on the threads when screwing into an aluminum piece so they don't seize up over time.

PACaSteel

I built my T4 with the Al/titanium screw kit. Turned out I didn't really use any of the Titanium screws which are meant for direct mounts to the chassis plate. I was so under weight that I was going to have to add someplace and where better than the bottom of the chassis mostly right down the center line. I did not want lighter screws for the steering as most noted above. But the Al screws are great for the top plate, the roll bars, and even the top shock mounts. Do not over torque them or use even the thinnest of lock-tite. This will let you move 10 - 15 grams from the higher positions to weights directly attached to the chassis plate at your choice of location.

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

My T4'14 has aluminum everywhere except the bottom of the chassis and the long screw that goes into the bottom of the front hubs. Those are titanium. Never had an issue with any of them and I test the board hard.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Titanium screws are stronger than steel screws and about half the weight.

Aluminium is lighter than Ti but not as strong.

Most new TC appear to use 6mm screws were as older generations used 8mm or even 10mm screws for the same job so the weight savings are less than they used to be.

I switched quite a few screws that were up high, from steel to ti and aluminium earlier this week for a 7g weight saving which is not much but every bit counts.

I can probably take another 5g off with some ti ball studs but I haven't found the correct size yet.

Most TC are still over weight but that may depend on your weight limit, battery and other accessories ie fan.

Quantra

I use aluminium everywhere on any car that I want to use a big battery and need to save weight. Just be aware not all aluminium is made equal. I use the 7075 T6 screws from fastener express which are much stronger than some cheaper screws I have bought from HK.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I prefer titanium screws and have them everywhere on my electric TC's as well as my nitro cars. I wouldn't personally trust Alu screws in the high load areas of the car.

whitrzac

iTrader: (97)

TI screws will break rather than bend... I would not use them for shock mounting.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

7075 Aluminum (used on various automobiles for lug nut and lug bolt applications):
Yield Strength: 73,000psi
Ultimate Tensile Strength: 83,000psi
Shear Strength: 48,000psi
Density: .102 lb/in^3

Grade 5 6AL-4V Titanium (Tikore's preferred material):
Yield Strength: 128,000psi
Ultimate Tensile Strength: 138,000psi
Shear Strength: 79,800psi
Density: .160 lb/in^3

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

Stainless is weaker than steel. I wouldn't use them anywhere on a TC.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

I've used aluminum on all points except the bottom screws into aluminum chassis parts for the past 2 years with no issues. Saves a lot of weight, but as mentioned they can strip easily (threads and heads). Have had to add upwards of 55-60g to chassis to meet minimum weight requirments. Mostly depends on user preference.

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

To ad to this, I have never had an issue with Hiro Seiko aluminum or titanium screws. I have screwed them in very hard too. I got a used Kyosho RB6 with the Kyosho titanium screws already in it and boy were they bad quality! They seemed a softer than the aluminum ones on my TC.

NEED-MORE-SPEED

iTrader: (11)

Stainless Steel screws are stronger than aluminum, I'm simply suggested using those in replacement of the "aluminum screws" in higher stress areas over the aluminum.