138LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-24-2015, 07:58 AM
Just got my new Trinity D4 (1s Short Stack) in the mail and installed it last night. The mounting holes for the motor are only on the "bottom" half of the motor (not 360 degrees around). I guess this thing is geared towards touring cars. 
The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
03-24-2015, 08:17 AM
Triple we are struggling with is very long for a 17.5 blinky buggy. Buggy can run full tilt but the triple is where it becomes questionable towards the end of the race.
03-24-2015, 08:19 AM
Just got my new Trinity D4 (1s Short Stack) in the mail and installed it last night. The mounting holes for the motor are only on the "bottom" half of the motor (not 360 degrees around). I guess this thing is geared towards touring cars. The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
03-24-2015, 08:44 AM
Yes you can. Take out the three screws like you were going to disassemble the motor and take out the rotor. However, don't disassemble it. Once the screws are backed out far enough you should be able to rotate that bottom plate to the needed location to mount it to the motor plate. Then just tighten the three screws and you are all set. Sorry, if I had a picture it would help but I hope this made sense.
03-24-2015, 08:47 AM
Well, y'all were right! That's the way to reclock the motor mounting holes. Unfortunately, that moved the solder tabs *too* far forward and they now interfere with the waterfall. D'oh! Looks like I'll have to put it back the way it was and get some longer wire leads.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
03-24-2015, 09:23 AM
Just got my new Trinity D4 (1s Short Stack) in the mail and installed it last night. The mounting holes for the motor are only on the "bottom" half of the motor (not 360 degrees around). I guess this thing is geared towards touring cars. The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.It is possible. On the pinion side of the motor, you can turn where the motor mount holes are. Take out all three front plate mount screws and rotate the Plate. Trinity is unable to predict what car it's used in, so they leave it to the end user to choose.
03-24-2015, 09:24 AM
Maybe he's referring to just a loss of punch, as opposed to the battery merely lasting the duration of the race? I don't know either way, but just pointing out another possibility.
For the track I run at, my car is pretty good clearing a particular jump earlier in the race, but as it wears on I lose just enough punch that that same jump gets more and more risky due to the slight decrease in power. Maybe that's similar to what the OP was experiencing?
For the track I run at, my car is pretty good clearing a particular jump earlier in the race, but as it wears on I lose just enough punch that that same jump gets more and more risky due to the slight decrease in power. Maybe that's similar to what the OP was experiencing?
Still sounds like a battery issue to me.
03-24-2015, 09:25 AM
Thanks! Yep, that's what I found. Unfortunately, that leaves three positions for the solder tabs and the default one turned out to be best for my application. It's not ideal, but I'll make do.
03-24-2015, 09:25 AM
Heat and a bad battery leads to the fade you're experiencing. Get better IR, and figure out how to lower the motor heat and you'll see this effect fade.
03-24-2015, 09:28 AM
Ultimately, yes, but I think it's reasonable to expect some degree of degradation (even if just slight) through the course of a run as voltage drops and heat builds up. Until we know the degree of degradation it's tough to say.
From what the orig. poster described, it sounds like a reasonable situation that doesn't necessarily point to any faulty equipment....just a desire to optimize everything so he can make that triple late in the race.
From what the orig. poster described, it sounds like a reasonable situation that doesn't necessarily point to any faulty equipment....just a desire to optimize everything so he can make that triple late in the race.
03-24-2015, 09:29 AM
03-24-2015, 09:39 AM
03-24-2015, 09:47 AM
I had a d3.5 and it was like that out of the box. I was able to get straight up with a 4 gear tranny by adjusting the ring
03-24-2015, 09:50 AM
The solder tabs are straight up and down in my 4-gear, so it is possible. Looks like you just need to play with the positioning some more.
03-24-2015, 09:52 AM