AE SC10 RTR ISSUES
#1
AE SC10 RTR ISSUES
Problem: battery very hot, battery connector melting.
Conditions: running stock RTR car. Motor, ESC everything RTR. Pinon and SG stock.
Battery: Traxxas 3300 MaH 7 cell, Venom 3000 MaH 7 cell
I run my sons truck before the race in the street in front of my house. I get 12-13 minutes easy with power starting to decrease around the 11 min mark. No issues. The battery has 7 cells, ( know this may be a factor, but the ESC isn't burning up) and I run a Taymia/Traxxas adapter beween the Battery and ESC (ESC has Taymia and the Battery has Traxxas connector.) This might be a resistance gate for the current. I don't know. My son runs it two 7 min qualifiers and both of them the truck dies out. I check it and the battery and connector/wires are extremely hot.
Any suggestions, experience or guidance is appreciated.
Do the wires come out of the stock RTR ESC because I need to put a new end on it and was just wondering.
Thanks,
-Hoosier
Conditions: running stock RTR car. Motor, ESC everything RTR. Pinon and SG stock.
Battery: Traxxas 3300 MaH 7 cell, Venom 3000 MaH 7 cell
I run my sons truck before the race in the street in front of my house. I get 12-13 minutes easy with power starting to decrease around the 11 min mark. No issues. The battery has 7 cells, ( know this may be a factor, but the ESC isn't burning up) and I run a Taymia/Traxxas adapter beween the Battery and ESC (ESC has Taymia and the Battery has Traxxas connector.) This might be a resistance gate for the current. I don't know. My son runs it two 7 min qualifiers and both of them the truck dies out. I check it and the battery and connector/wires are extremely hot.
Any suggestions, experience or guidance is appreciated.
Do the wires come out of the stock RTR ESC because I need to put a new end on it and was just wondering.
Thanks,
-Hoosier
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Problem: battery very hot, battery connector melting.
Conditions: running stock RTR car. Motor, ESC everything RTR. Pinon and SG stock.
Battery: Traxxas 3300 MaH 7 cell, Venom 3000 MaH 7 cell
I run my sons truck before the race in the street in front of my house. I get 12-13 minutes easy with power starting to decrease around the 11 min mark. No issues. The battery has 7 cells, ( know this may be a factor, but the ESC isn't burning up) and I run a Taymia/Traxxas adapter beween the Battery and ESC (ESC has Taymia and the Battery has Traxxas connector.) This might be a resistance gate for the current. I don't know. My son runs it two 7 min qualifiers and both of them the truck dies out. I check it and the battery and connector/wires are extremely hot.
Any suggestions, experience or guidance is appreciated.
Do the wires come out of the stock RTR ESC because I need to put a new end on it and was just wondering.
Thanks,
-Hoosier
Conditions: running stock RTR car. Motor, ESC everything RTR. Pinon and SG stock.
Battery: Traxxas 3300 MaH 7 cell, Venom 3000 MaH 7 cell
I run my sons truck before the race in the street in front of my house. I get 12-13 minutes easy with power starting to decrease around the 11 min mark. No issues. The battery has 7 cells, ( know this may be a factor, but the ESC isn't burning up) and I run a Taymia/Traxxas adapter beween the Battery and ESC (ESC has Taymia and the Battery has Traxxas connector.) This might be a resistance gate for the current. I don't know. My son runs it two 7 min qualifiers and both of them the truck dies out. I check it and the battery and connector/wires are extremely hot.
Any suggestions, experience or guidance is appreciated.
Do the wires come out of the stock RTR ESC because I need to put a new end on it and was just wondering.
Thanks,
-Hoosier
In adition to the connector, check the gear mesh between the pinion and spur. a hard landing can cause the motor to move and make the mesh tight causing high current draw from the battery, and high motor/ESC temps.also while you have the gear cover off I would back the motor away from the spur and spin the drive train to make sure it all rotates freely with no binding.RTR's are great , but alot of the time they need to be gone through to make sure screws are snug,there are no binds in the suspension or drivetrain, shocks are full of oil and all the things like that that you have the chance to "tune" as you build a kit.I generally look at RTR's like I do buying a used vehicle for the above mentioned reasons.They are great because everything you need to run them is in the box, but you should still make sure that the guy that assembled it did a good job at it.
Also On the SC10 gear diffs, you might want to tear it down and make sure it was properly shimmed . We have had a few guys show up with new sc10 RTR's that ended up stripping out the gear diffs within a few runs because the diff wasnt shimmed properly out of the box. You can find instructions on how to properly shim the diff in the SC10 thread here on RC tech. Good luck.
#3
Thanks for the quick response. So, the connector is the culprit. I believe that because it had a poor connection and was cutting out intermittently and I guess after time the poor connection built up more resistance and heated up the wires/battery. I run a RC8T and new to the electric stuff, but am enjoying the SC class for my son. The diff is not making the clicking sound yet. I ran about 12 packs through the car, still good. The kit came with the shims and instructions so I am good on that.
So, couple of quick questions:
I am running a 20T pinion and an 87T Spur. If the motor is running hot, to go easier on the motor do you go more or less teeth on the pinion?
Is the gear ratio the same ideal as Nitro CB/SG? Less teeth on CB/Pinion more bottom end, more teeth on CB/Pinion more top end?
I don't know what the target range of temperature on motors, what are they?
Thanks
So, couple of quick questions:
I am running a 20T pinion and an 87T Spur. If the motor is running hot, to go easier on the motor do you go more or less teeth on the pinion?
Is the gear ratio the same ideal as Nitro CB/SG? Less teeth on CB/Pinion more bottom end, more teeth on CB/Pinion more top end?
I don't know what the target range of temperature on motors, what are they?
Thanks
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Thanks for the quick response. So, the connector is the culprit. I believe that because it had a poor connection and was cutting out intermittently and I guess after time the poor connection built up more resistance and heated up the wires/battery. I run a RC8T and new to the electric stuff, but am enjoying the SC class for my son. The diff is not making the clicking sound yet. I ran about 12 packs through the car, still good. The kit came with the shims and instructions so I am good on that.
So, couple of quick questions:
I am running a 20T pinion and an 87T Spur. If the motor is running hot, to go easier on the motor do you go more or less teeth on the pinion?
Is the gear ratio the same ideal as Nitro CB/SG? Less teeth on CB/Pinion more bottom end, more teeth on CB/Pinion more top end?
I don't know what the target range of temperature on motors, what are they?
Thanks
So, couple of quick questions:
I am running a 20T pinion and an 87T Spur. If the motor is running hot, to go easier on the motor do you go more or less teeth on the pinion?
Is the gear ratio the same ideal as Nitro CB/SG? Less teeth on CB/Pinion more bottom end, more teeth on CB/Pinion more top end?
I don't know what the target range of temperature on motors, what are they?
Thanks
#5
Thanks for the quick response. So, the connector is the culprit. I believe that because it had a poor connection and was cutting out intermittently and I guess after time the poor connection built up more resistance and heated up the wires/battery. I run a RC8T and new to the electric stuff, but am enjoying the SC class for my son. The diff is not making the clicking sound yet. I ran about 12 packs through the car, still good. The kit came with the shims and instructions so I am good on that.
So, couple of quick questions:
I am running a 20T pinion and an 87T Spur. If the motor is running hot, to go easier on the motor do you go more or less teeth on the pinion?
Is the gear ratio the same ideal as Nitro CB/SG? Less teeth on CB/Pinion more bottom end, more teeth on CB/Pinion more top end?
I don't know what the target range of temperature on motors, what are they?
Thanks
So, couple of quick questions:
I am running a 20T pinion and an 87T Spur. If the motor is running hot, to go easier on the motor do you go more or less teeth on the pinion?
Is the gear ratio the same ideal as Nitro CB/SG? Less teeth on CB/Pinion more bottom end, more teeth on CB/Pinion more top end?
I don't know what the target range of temperature on motors, what are they?
Thanks
6-cells and a 17 tooth pinion will be much better.
#6
Thanks again guys, some of the other forums I get 100 views and no replys.
7-cells... you know what sucks about that, they guy at the LHS never said anything about it. The 7-cell 3000 mah battery ran me about 40 bones each and I bought 2. So I figured since I have 4x's the money invested over the cost of a new motor I would roll the dice until this motor is done.
Which leads me into the next question. I would like to upgrade maybe to a BL system for his SC10. The whole thing is pretty confusing to me. What would be a good ECS/Motor combo for the SC10. A bit faster than stock, and maybe on the edge of uncontrolable. Some one have the short answer? Any links would be appreciated.
7-cells... you know what sucks about that, they guy at the LHS never said anything about it. The 7-cell 3000 mah battery ran me about 40 bones each and I bought 2. So I figured since I have 4x's the money invested over the cost of a new motor I would roll the dice until this motor is done.
Which leads me into the next question. I would like to upgrade maybe to a BL system for his SC10. The whole thing is pretty confusing to me. What would be a good ECS/Motor combo for the SC10. A bit faster than stock, and maybe on the edge of uncontrolable. Some one have the short answer? Any links would be appreciated.
#9
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
what legal to run by you? If its pretty much an open 2wd class, I would give the castle sidewinder or Mamba Max 4600Kv combo a look. lots of power, but controllable and can be tuned easily. These units can be found pretty cheap, especially used ones. The Mamba Max was durable enough that with slight mods we used it in 1/8 scale electric before the Mamba Monster max ESC came out.
I run this unit in my Academy 1/10 2wd GV2T truck and I am quite happy with it. Loads of power including top end but I can tune it to work just like I want. with the right settings, cogging has not been an issue. (motor stutter at start throttle)
If you are concerned about cogging however, give the various sensored units out there a look. Or, if you need a race legal system for a spec class (some spec 13.5 or 17.5), you will need a sensored unit.
I run this unit in my Academy 1/10 2wd GV2T truck and I am quite happy with it. Loads of power including top end but I can tune it to work just like I want. with the right settings, cogging has not been an issue. (motor stutter at start throttle)
If you are concerned about cogging however, give the various sensored units out there a look. Or, if you need a race legal system for a spec class (some spec 13.5 or 17.5), you will need a sensored unit.
#11
Thank you for the guidance everyone. Just realized that I was taking a temp reading at the end of the motor where the rotor is and it is substantially higher in temp than the temp of the can. I temped it at the end bell I guess its called and it was 245 and the can was 190. I changed the pinion gear to 17T down from 20T. I started hearing for the first time the clacking sound in the diff, so I installed the shims under each sun gear, which is two shims total under each. I think the added torque of the 17T might have been causing the clicking in the diff. My question is where exactly to you take the temp of the motor?
Thanks
Hoosier
Thanks
Hoosier
#13
Check the temps at the endbell. And you cant go wrong with novak especially their customer service.
#14
get castle mamba max 4600 brushless and reedy 35c 5000 mah lipo batteries.
Last edited by ae rat; 07-29-2009 at 02:27 PM.
#15
standard plug.
I'm almost positive it's the Standard plug. I would recomend getting a Traxxas plug. It will handle 8.4 volts alot easier the the one you have.