you guys wouldnt beleive what happened at the track today
#1
you guys wouldnt beleive what happened at the track today
well the place where i race is really dusty most of the time and its a real fine dust. i smoked one motor that i just pinched.when i brought it to the track you couldnt turn it over but after my first heat there was no compression what so ever.so i threw in a v-spec and smoked it to after one run.it had no compression.so i smoked to motors in one day!just thought id share that with everyone
#2
Some days you eat the bear and some days the bear eats you. Of course that's one of the major appeals to me. Otherwise it would get to be like baseball and the only thing slower is farming.
#3
there was 3 or 4 more people that that happened to in one day.they wouldnt stay running cause of no compression
#4
do you think the dust eat the engine...!! whether you use two layer air filter, pouring filter oil and ziptie the filter, the dust still can go into the engine. my track is also very dusty, thats why i like to play after rain, so the track in wet condition and there is no dust at all..
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
I'm glad you brought this up.....I'm preparing for a race that is on a very dusty track....To the point where we're running ski-goggles when we run the long gas mains!!
I wasn't even thinking of that....but now I'm gonna dust proof my carb! Thanks....I guess!
Sorry about your luck....
I wasn't even thinking of that....but now I'm gonna dust proof my carb! Thanks....I guess!
Sorry about your luck....
#6
If it's supery dusty, oiling your prefilter (you are running a 2 stage filter I hope) will make a big difference. It will require more attention during the course of a race day, but it's worth it if the air is full of fines.
#7
i use motor saver and very well oiled using the thick AE oil.
after race day, my inner filter shows a little brown mark... i suppose dirt does get thru, but i have done everything to try stop it, i would have to change air filter every 2 heats to prevent it... no filter system is 100% effective and so long as it let in just very minimal amounts then it should be ok... oh my engines last well over 6 gallon mark...
after race day, my inner filter shows a little brown mark... i suppose dirt does get thru, but i have done everything to try stop it, i would have to change air filter every 2 heats to prevent it... no filter system is 100% effective and so long as it let in just very minimal amounts then it should be ok... oh my engines last well over 6 gallon mark...
#9
normally all type of air filter, the foam covered side by side by the case. so the dust still can go through between the foam and the case. why they dont make a foam that covered all the case so that dust cannot enter at all
#10
Tech Adept
I stopped using the motor saver for this reason. There was always a small mud mark under the foam element. I use the stock filter on my Thunder Tiger S3 and it works really well, since it pinches the filter between the front and back.
I also change my filter after every run. I usually take 5 or 6 filters to the track for a day of racing. I often clean them while I am there also.
I also change my filter after every run. I usually take 5 or 6 filters to the track for a day of racing. I often clean them while I am there also.
#11
I used to run on a very dusty track a few years ago and so many motor saver engines literaly bit the dust we started calling them motor slayers. While it's popular with the basher crowd and for most conditions it does a decent job, but heavy dust full of fines and a motor slayer (non)filter spells sure death to engines. The best type of filter is a captured foam element like those in the first 2 pics below with an outer prefilter like the one shown in the third pic. When you assemble the inner foam to the cage, put a small amount of white grease around the inner ridge of both ends of the cage and make sure the element is completely captured within the ends of the cage. Next, slip the prefilter over the main assembly, making sure it covers both ends of the cage. For normal conditions leave the prefilter dry, but if it's extremely dusty you can also oil it and seal the ends by putting some grease between the edges of the filter cage and the prefilter. Most any kind of grease will do just don't use silicone grease. I use white grease simply because it's easier to clean off when the time comes. I lost a very sweet 12 CV-R to fines that a motor slayer allowed to pass, but since switching to a 2 stage filter I get to wear my engines out the old fashioned way by running them to death.
#12
Originally Posted by fhm101
The best type of filter is a captured foam element. When you assemble the inner foam to the cage, put a small amount of white grease around the inner ridge of both ends of the cage and make sure the element is completely captured within the ends of the cage
Last edited by arghh; 07-12-2005 at 09:43 PM.
#13
It all depends on how dusty it is. On a track that's watered regularly a prefilter would not really matter that much as long as the primary filter was sealed and oiled.