PROVK

iTrader: (14)

Can some one please explain rear bearing position as in the setup sheet.
What to you have to do to go from .5mm to 1mm , its not explained that well.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

There are small shims behind the bearings. Take the one out from behind the inside bearing and move it so it is behind the the outside bearing.

PROVK

iTrader: (14)

Thanks wingracer

Jongo

iTrader: (1)

I ran about 6 litres of fuel through my new MRX4X without any clutch problems. Then two race meets ago I wore out 2 clutch shoes in one race meet. The culprit turned out to be a bent clutch plate (H0776) due to the clutch plate hitting the chassis on the inside edge of the slot. Hence, I repositioned the motor such that it is now as far to the exhaust side of the chassis as possible.

However, yesterday I again experienced very heavy clutch wear and at the end of the race day found that a big chunk was missing from the clutch plate. Also, there is a clearly visible mark where the clutch plate is rubbing on the chassis on the inside edge of the slot. Yesterday I had a couple minor crashes, but no real big ones.

Is this normal?

Do I need to use my Dremel to widen the slot that accomodates the clutch?

Thanks.

advfuel

iTrader: (29)

Hi Jongo

What clutch gap and end play are you running?
I use .40mm gap and .10mm end play.

Row

Jongo

iTrader: (1)

Hey prez, before I started having clutch problems I was using the following settings, which worked very well.

Spring = 1.0 mm, Clutch Gap = 0.5 mm, End Play = not much, 0.1 to 0.2 mm.

After the problems started, which were after a crash during the morning warm up two race meets ago, I tried using the above settings, and also tried the following settings. But by the time I used the settings below the clutch plate may have already been damaged without me noticing.

Spring = 1.2 mm, Clutch Gap = 0.4 mm, End Play = not much.

I just held a straight edge on the chassis left to right, on the top where the motor normally sits, and it is flat. However, holding the chassis on the bottom long ways, from front to back, it has a slightly convex bow. Despite the chassis being bowed a little, I doubt that it would cause the clutch plate vs chassis problem as the magnitude of the bow across the width of the engine mounts is minute.

Although I never had any clutch problems for the first 6 litres or so, this may have simply been due to a lack of hard crashes during that period. As our track has the somewhat unforgiving polypipe on the edges, the later 2 clutch plate damage problems may have been simply due to hardish hits on the pipe. However, I have noticed others at the club have a few very hard crashes without the subsequent clutch plate problem.

I guess I will simply need to Dremel out the chassis slot a bit and try it out.

jeff1

hey guys
what is the body that everybody are using? I have been using the central lola, but I have seen other kind of bodies in the track and also worldwide

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Central is good.

I like the Parma R12

Zytec seems to be the most popular choice at the moment.

Ask again next week, the answer will probably change.

ira

iTrader: (18)

Parma R12, the body is Great!!!

fulcrum2

Has anyone tried the Zytec and the R12? Big difference in performance?

CharlieJunkins

I have an MRX4-X, I would like some information on what the vertical location of the front one way and the rear spool does to the handling of the car.

motojon

iTrader: (3)

I'm looking for clutch pieces #H0775, H0776, & H0779. Mugen USA doesn't have them on their website to order and a couple of website that Ive checked are out of stock or non-existent

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

But I have them all the time.

motojon

iTrader: (3)

individual pieces or the complete clutch assembly, and by the way do you have any 32F, 35R, and an R12 in stock

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

32F and 35R in Red Box, how many R12 do you need? I only have 23 left.