tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

The standard length XXX-S belts are the original dark Blue (almost looks black, but it isn't) or the low drag Yellow belt upgrade (easy to spot)...

The Black belt upgrade is truly "black" in color, *AND* it uses a longer tension arm for the belt *AND* the idler pulley on the tension arm is BLACK and not white like the original idler.

without removing it and comparing length, this is the best I can do to help...

radarwill

Hello all,
I just joined after reading this entire thread over the last week. You guys are an awsome source of information and sure did stear me in good direction.

I just purchased one week ago the RTR II XXX-S. Out of the box, with a 19 turn and the Novak ESC, it was a serious dog. I noticed the Novak handled 7 cells and up to a 15T motor, so I put both aforementioned items in. What an improvement. I could beat my buddies HPI RS4 3 Evo+ around our parking lot track, but lost badly on a lengthy straight.
Last night I came across a good deal on a new Novak GTB 5.5 brushless motor and controller. Holy S**T, it's faster than my RC18T with the Mamba 6800! The only differance is the XXX-S will actually handle under all conditions. I also installed the Long (Black) belt upgrade and added some Nitro Shoes (foam) tires. I'm a Losi man now!!

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

radar -- WELCOME! Glad to hear you joined the LOSI camp... Locally I've been racing my XXX-S cars for about 5 years now and I've stayed competitive racing every thing from FT TC4's to the latest Yokomo's or X-Rays... Of course, that's club racing on the local HobbyTown parking lot, but racing is racing...

I strongly recommend the Graphite chassis, as it will cut some weight and make the chassis more consistent. Other than that, you are golden. Heck -- the local club is even looking at starting a "spec" class based on the XXX-S Brushless RTR...

utahrcracer

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys..... I used to race an xxx-s I loved that car!! I am just getting back into racing. Anyone here racing in utah if so please pm me and let me know where! Anyway I am glad to see that people are still using this car that is great

burbs

iTrader: (1)

Hi i recently picked up a diggitty tc3 conversion.. we are running tc cars with latemodel bodies on dirt oval at trackside in milwaukee,,. I want to get some aluminum rear hubs for the car.. I know they make them for the tc3 cars, however i want to use the losi style hubs with the upright ball studs.. Does anyone make an aluminum rear hub for the xxxs kit.. thanks..

I am also willing to buy used if they are in good shape..

radarwill

I have installed the Black Long Belt upgrade and was wondering if the yellow belt is an enhancement for that setup or is it an enhancement for the stock(short) setup.
Thanks

SrRC

iTrader: (3)

As I remember the yellow was a short belt. The black belt was
the improved latest version.

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

Burbs -- Both Trinity (part of the Matt Francis line) and Dynamite made aluminum hubs for the XXX-S... They pop up on eBay from time to time...

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

radar -- SrRC is correct. The short belts are the original Blue belt and the "low friction" Yellow belt -- both of these are used with the short tension arm and the white idler pulley. (As you would know, the long Black belt uses a longer tension arm and a larger, Black idler pulley.

Do not be confused by the yellow XXX-4 belt -- it is for the considerably longer XXX-4 chassis, and to my knowledge those belts will not work on the shorter XXX-S chassis...

radarwill

You guys are correct. I guess the real differance is the long belt relieves some of the sharp "S" bend at the drive gear. The mod did make a huge differance, but now the breaks will cause the belt to skip on the front diff. I just turn down the breaks on the JR until I get my one way.
Thanks again for the info.

Phroz

iTrader: (1)

I chewed up 2 blue belts with a mamba 7700. I installed the black belt some months ago and its still going strong.I also noticed a little improvement in the drive trains "rolling resistance"

radarwill

If it were not for this thread most likely I would not own this car. I'm glad I passed on an AE. Thanks for all the tips and know-how. What ya think of my new ride?

4800Mah Team Orion 2x2 lipo @7.4 144Amps for 10 seconds 84 cont.
Novak GTB Velicoty 5.5 brushless
28mm foams
3 channel JR / Airtronics syn. Receiver 75Mhz FM

Why don't they come RTR like this?


Atention!!
This car is known to frequent local High School parking lots. Last seen speeding in excess of 50 Mph passing an HPI RS4 3 EVO + Nitro rig.

Phroz

iTrader: (1)

haha yeah my nitro 1:8th mate was way pissed when my XXX-SG 7700kv mamba whooped his Kyosho inferno .28 in a drag race and that was using 3500mah 6cell Nimh.. time for another race with a 2s lipo

Phroz

iTrader: (1)

Noob question here.. but how do you set the ride height on the XXX-SG chassis.

TL_XXX-S_racer

On the shocks there are rings(nut like) that can turn. Turn then clockwise to raise ride height. Turning them counter-clockwise will lower ride height. The G+ has threaded shocks, which makes it fast and easy to adjust ride height, unlike the standard rtr shocks where you have to loosen a little screw then move the collar up or down.

Chris