138LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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07-07-2014, 02:13 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
07-07-2014, 02:24 PM
I used a dremal. It will chuck right up into the colar. And it went ok....a week later it was binding again. Another local used a ball cup reamer and has report ball cup perfection. He used a 4mm one from tunigy, but some members cut a couple groves in old studs, popped them into the cup and ran it low speed. This is my next plan of attack. Sanding was "ok" and better than stock, but still lacking IMO. I have a bigger type local race this weekend and need to go through 3 cars. If I have time I will try the ball cup reamer method. Maybe even borrow one for that local racer.
I'll probably just give them a quick polish on a dremel then.
To the extreme I wonder how well taking them to a machine shop to remove a thousandth around might help.
That's way above what I'm willing to put into an area I don't see a problem, I get way more binding at the pins. Just assuming that might be ideal. Though what the heck is a ball cup reamer? Just opens the cup rather than working on the ball?
07-07-2014, 02:26 PM
Interesting.
I'll probably just give them a quick polish on a dremel then.
To the extreme I wonder how well taking them to a machine shop to remove a thousandth around might help.
That's way above what I'm willing to put into an area I don't see a problem, I get way more binding at the pins. Just assuming that might be ideal. Though what the heck is a ball cup reamer? Just opens the cup rather than working on the ball?
I'll probably just give them a quick polish on a dremel then.
To the extreme I wonder how well taking them to a machine shop to remove a thousandth around might help.
That's way above what I'm willing to put into an area I don't see a problem, I get way more binding at the pins. Just assuming that might be ideal. Though what the heck is a ball cup reamer? Just opens the cup rather than working on the ball?
07-07-2014, 02:29 PM
so I know on the mm the flat arms helpes smooth out my steering. Do the gull wings give the RM more steering? if so is it entry mid or exit steering?
07-07-2014, 02:30 PM
07-07-2014, 02:43 PM
07-07-2014, 02:53 PM
that set looks nice.
07-07-2014, 02:56 PM
im sure for the money its decent, but i guarantee they arent the same quality as lunsford. The TLR ones were also of low quality, and were even more expensive than those.
07-07-2014, 02:59 PM
well my track started misting. and now my steel screws are getting surface rust. I might get these for low stress areas. WD40 does not seem to be keeping the rust monster at bay
07-07-2014, 03:16 PM
You end up with dried globs right along the center sidewall. Also, I first cut the inside of the tire... then the next time you can either recut the same side, or switch to the outside. much faster and much easier than trying to cut the tire off the wheel. Just make sure you use the glue sparingly, so you don't get any THROUGH the tire, into your insert.
07-07-2014, 04:50 PM
Besides that strc doesnt enclude the stress screws soo alum is lighter and doesnt rust.
As for the 3mm serrated your can get bags of those for $2 or $6 anodized.
07-07-2014, 05:11 PM
they claim these are high quality....
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1383
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1383
07-07-2014, 05:35 PM
I run gullwings and offset bushings up front and that was the ticket for max steering response on my rear motor on a clay high grip indoor track.
07-07-2014, 05:38 PM
I've also reused the tires, you just gotta simple green and sauce them to put the oil back in them.
07-07-2014, 06:07 PM
this is only true for clay compound tires. Been acetone for a couple years and zero issues other then clay tires. Let the foams dry out and they are good too. This method also saves the rims. lol