M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

My local track is smooth, high traction asphalt. I had been running Tamiya White springs up front and Tamiya Blue springs on my car since I bought it and the car was always been good. Last night I decided to try switching to heavy springs all around, but with the same balance. Tamiya White/Blue are approximately 17lb/15lb, so I switched to 19lb/17lb (Serpent Orange up front, and Tamiya White in the rear).

The car is the best it's even been since I've owned it. I really wish I had tried this earlier at my track, it would have been deadly at our state race last month even though I still finished second.

I wish Tamiya had a 19lb spring, because the Serpent springs are too short for the Tamiya shocks, although they work fine.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

If you want a longer spring, try associated ones (their gold spring is 19lb); I always ran tamiya shocks with my TC5 and they worked well

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I'm not sure if it's a typo but you should be using hole 1 on the front arms, which is the widest position

as mike said gold silver is also a bit hard for low grip asphalt, silver blue is what I use. You can also try going to 5mm under the front camber link which is basically the default setting

Can u also post your wheelbase settings?

yokfans

Thanks. I've not measured the wheelbase before but I'm using 0.5mm wheel spacer all around.

Sean Williams

iTrader: (20)

YokFans try the following it should help:

1. Change to medium inserts Like Exotek has mentioned already. Purple does seem a little hard for the temps and traction your getting. You can still run 36's leave the tweak off and go with Warmers and FXII.

2. Again Gold and Silver springs are very heavy for those conditions, oil is ok...but lighter spring should help a little try Tamiya Blue/Yellow then Yello/ Yello.

3. 4.0t geared at 8.9 seems a little tall especially with a Lipo...is the track big? Probably getting alot of wheel spin with those track conditions...try mellowing it out a bit with a 5.5 and a little negative expo!

4. Looking at your suspension position (#3 on the arm) looks like your shocks are almost stood up. Try position #1 or #2 Like Craig said on the arm and move to #2 on the shock tower.

Try some of those changes and let me know how it works. Might want to adjust your rolls centers accordingly once you get a little mor satisfied with your setup.

Let me know ok!

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Thats track width. You don't need to actually measure the wheelbase, just tell us how many spacers are behind the front arms and in front of the rear arms on the kingpins. The most common setup is 2mm behind the front arms 3mm in front of the rear arms

yokfans

Oh, sorry. My wheelbase is now 2mm behind behind the fr arms and 2mm in front of the rear arms

yokfans

Thanks a lot! Let me give it a try and let u know soon.

yokfans

By the way, would u mind to let me know what's the difference in effect between shocks being standing up more or laying down? Which is better for low grip tracks? Thanks again.

mjack

laydown = softer shock damping
stand up= harder shock damping

Try change the front spring to HPI Silver, rear HPI Blue.. This is a good start for low traction track.. Use softer oil too. front 400, rear 350cst

Just my 2 Cents opinion.

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

laydown = softer & more progressive
standup = stiffer & more linear

Progressive means it will get stiffer the more the suspension is compressed. Linear stays the same throughout...

Usually with a low-grip situation, you want to soften the car all around.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

2mm in the rear normally results in snappy oversteer. If that is happening (after your car understeers) go to 3mm

Ritchie T

Hi is there a list of lipos that dont fit the 416x?

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

After many, many hours of preparing my 416X, I finally got it on the track today for some practice. I went with the out of the box setup.

Initially, I was having problems with the car intermittently pushing, then snap traction rolling. I found that I had to drive it very carefully. So careful in fact that my practice lap times were off by 3 - 4 seconds.

After making a few adjustments to the radio's steering travel, droop and most importantly my tires (I was testing with Tamiya B3), my car was running great. The B3's were way to sticky. I switched to Jaco Blues and the car became magic. I only had 3.5 minutes remaining to test (racing was about to begin), but my lap times fell dramatically. I was within .5 second of the average lap times of the fastest 17.5 drivers.

I found the car very easy to drive and truly confidence inspiring. Best of all, I didn't break anything.

I'm very pleased with this chassis. I feel that this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Oh, one thing... I'm not feeling to comfortable with the way my LiPo battery fits. I have to let the pack sit partially over the edge of the chassis so that the battery plugs don't make contact with the upper chassis plate.

It works, but my concern is what's going to happen when I get into the inevitable collision with another car. I fear the battery is going to break loose.