DonnieNitro

Hi forum soon i'm going to purchase my first 1/8 scale buggy i have decided on the Team Losi 8ight rtr buggy. I am very excited and can't wait. So my question is what should i have on hand for replacement parts in case i happen to break something. Links would be great Thank you

One more quick ?

If any of you have this buggy what is a good base set-up.

iiweeldman

iTrader: (1)

I have the kit car, but a friend of mine bought the RTR, I would suggest getting the other two shoes and springs for the clutch, and changing the shock oil to 40 weight. The motor is plenty fast enough. You might also want to change the top shock caps to the aluminum ones somewhere down the road.


The only problem I have yet to figure out is how to keep the throttle servos from dying.

-Scott

tex1

iTrader: (4)

Donnie,
Get yourself a good throttle servo. I highly suggest a Futaba S9451. You won't be sorry.

Get some Kings Head 7075 clutch shoes and some gold springs for the clutch.

Green springs for your shocks and run 40 wt all the way around. I have found the stock shock setup it far too soft for even advanced drivers.

Might want to pick up a front CNC shock tower.

Get some good rubber for your track that you only use for that surface.
Panther Komodo II MS is a good start anywhere. They last a long time.

Pick up some rod ends and shock standoffs. These are the only things that really break.

Get some clutch bearings.


As you get more serious and you are going to race it you will need motor mounts, back plate and a starter box. You don't need this until later though.
You can race it with just the above mentioned items.

Have fun,
TEX

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

The differentials come filled with grease, not oil, so you'll want to get some 7000, 5000, and 2000wt Losi diff oil. Also as someone mentioned, different shock oil will improve the dampening on a racetrack. The stock pistions are 55's I think and I used Team Losi 45wt in the front and 35wt in the rear. For my track running green springs on all 4 corners felt the best. Good luck

tex1

iTrader: (4)

Ahh... Good catch Gary.
You do need to put some diff oil in there. 5-7-2 works well.
Green on all 4 corners for my car as well.
TEX

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I agree with the above posts!
Its a good car for the money!
Strong motor, good rough track handling, but has some issues with maintenence.
But with some hop ups, good servos, and spare parts it shoud be a good driver for ya!

Good luck!

trebor

iTrader: (6)

I started off with the RTR but is now a "Special Edition" 9ight.lol. Seriously though, change your shock cap bottoms to the aluminum because they are plastic and suck. And definitely go to the Losi 8ight building and setup thread and read it because the throttle and brake setup is way off on the RTR. Ive seen 2 guys buy the RTR at my LHS and both guys on the days they bought it and duuring break-in burnt up the servos. So invest in a better servos. The 8ight is an excellent machine!! The guy that works at my LHS was helping me tuning it so I let him have a rip at it. He drives the Mugen and is really good. He gave me back my radio and was definitely impressed and says " WOW, now I know what the big hype about the Losi 8ights is because that thing drives unbelievable!" So, I think we will have a new 8ight driver on board. It also means that when the parts come out that there will be one more person fighting for them.lol. trebor OUT!

Scott8ight

Hey Trebor I was reading your reply and was wondering if you know where to get aluminum shocks cap bottoms cause I cant find them anywhere and mine are worn out after like 6 races so I dont really want to put the plastic ones back on so any help would be apprieciated thanks

vroom88

if your reffering to the bottom caps they do not come in aluminum only the top ones come in aluminum

air8

iTrader: (7)

The bottom shock seal retainers for my shocks are aluminum.

Donnie---I suggest turning the throttle end point down. Waaaay down. The Mach 427 is way too torquey for 8th scale racing. If you are a basher then it's fine. But to learn to drive well turn the EPA down to open 3/4 of the way or less. Even this far open might be too much for dry and dusty tracks. Tires will last longer and and the chassis can work much better. Also WATCH OUT when you adjust the steering sub trim. With the Spek. radio set the steering EPA last. If you don't the car will not steer well one way, but it will steer great the other way. Took me a while to figure this out. The previous posts are great suggestions also. Enjoy

Timmahh

iTrader: (16)

both my neighbors (brothers) just got RTR 8ights.
great lil buggys. both had small issues. one needed to have the brake cam for the rear adjusted as it was hanging up on the center diff cover and dragging the rear brakes. once adjusted its fine. the rest of the thrt/brke linkages were great. no adjustments needed. he also lost 2 motor mount bolts after about 12 tanks, so pull and locktite the MM bolts first.

the other bro lost 3 cross pins on the diff side driveshafts but the rest of the buggy is pretty solid.

trebor

iTrader: (6)

Scott8ight- Hey, so your shock cap bottoms are wearing out after only 6 races? Worn out, do you mean its getting bent from hitting shock end rods or just fading from wear? Do you have your downstop screws set properly? But anyways there is a couple of places you can get the shock cap bottoms if your LHS cant get them for you>

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph..._25_352/page/3

or
http://www.bmainhobbies.com/index.ph...ba2cb2a3f74cb4

And they both have plenty in stock. Im pretty sure they take paypal too so its kinda convenient. So hopefully you find what you are looking for and PM me if you need anything else. Later.

Oh yeah, If buying a New RTR check and see if you have the new updated shocks, just open them up and see if they are white O-rings inside, if they are you are all set, otherwise buy the updated ones from LOSI, or the ones from "Ultimate Products" or "TKO"
Also, PUT THREADLOCK ON YOUR MOTOR MOUNT SCREWS ONE AT A TIME AS I HAVE HEARD AND SEEN PLENTY OF CLUTCHBELLS AND BEARINGS GET RUINED BY THE MOTOR MOUNT SCREWS COMING LOOSE!! I think that LOSI only applies a little bit and by the time you get the RTR they are not tight or Threadlocked. So make sure you do that. THREADLOCK<THREADLOCKTHREADLOCK
Actually, check anything over that needs threadlock as its not a bad idea since you have it out.

Scott8ight

Hello again Trebor,
Well Im gonna start out just so you dont think im retarded or something by saying that I screwed up my user name it was supposed to be scotts8ight, but Im on my girlfreinds lappy and im not used to a normal keyboard so you know, but anyways moving on to the point.
Upon further inspection of my other shocks I dont beleive that they are worn out. The last race I blew a shock cause I forgot to threadlock the screw on top of the shockrod last time I rebuilt them and I went off of that one, but now that I have rebuilt it its the only one that is like that, so yah... brainfart on my part. But I do want to still upgrade to the aluminum bottoms so thank you for that help.
And yes my 8ight started out as a rtr like yours but now has most of the hop ups on it, plus the split diff mount, and king headz battery tray stiffner, and M11 with spektrum module. Uhm I think thats it...oh yeah and avid bearings cause all the losi bearings went out....duh another brainfart there is also the RB .21 SCII. And I switched to a mugen clutch cause everytime I rebuilt the clutch I stripped the screws on it.
Im actually pretty new to RC racing, not rc but the racing part, my LHS put a track in a couple months ago and I started racing and loved it! Well its also my first buggy, or non transmission rc.
Oh and my shocks have the black o-rings so I will be upgrading them soon to the white ones (thanks for that tip) Actually I had planned on putting new ones in anyways cause some one fell asleep and only put one o ring in the bottom shock cap uhm space there instead of two so that shock really leaked like half the oil in 1 heat.
I had intended to buy the kit, but since I had to wait like 3 or but 4 months to get it, I just said screw it and grabbed the rtr.
But anyways thats enough for now I reckon any racing tips you have would be greatly appriciated. My track is a fairly smooth track, with a big jump a couple doubles and triples a pretty long straight away (enough for my engine to reach top speed anyways before I have to hit the brakes and turn a 90 at the other end, and a lot of curves. Thanks for the help so far you seem really knowledgable.

jon9e

hi guys,was running electric but now back to nitro,hence the user name,anyway when you say green springs all round what rate off spring,also what diff oil do i use for best in front and rear,cheers guys,good to be back