Hpi Pro 4
#4367
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Super Steve
As far as i know, isn't ti stronger then aluminum weaker then steel, lighter then steel but heavier then aluminum?
As far as i know, isn't ti stronger then aluminum weaker then steel, lighter then steel but heavier then aluminum?
The Ti used in most R/C Car/Truck parts applications has less tensile strength than hardened Steel and more than low grade Steel.
However, because it is lighter than Steel, you can make the part(s) slightly stronger and still achieve a weight savings.
#4368
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kevin K
Just get a whole diff kit.....HPI part number 75141....... Ball Differential Set for Pro 4 [/QUOTE
They come in a kit in whole put you do have to put it together. I got mine from www.stomerhobbies.com here is the link https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...pl?pn=HPI75141 but it looks like there out of order!
Just get a whole diff kit.....HPI part number 75141....... Ball Differential Set for Pro 4 [/QUOTE
They come in a kit in whole put you do have to put it together. I got mine from www.stomerhobbies.com here is the link https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...pl?pn=HPI75141 but it looks like there out of order!
#4369
Tech Regular
thanks guys for the info.
Cheers,
Mossie
Cheers,
Mossie
#4370
Originally posted by Super Steve
as if tower put that in their description!
as if tower put that in their description!
#4371
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
HEY ALL,
I changed my front arm sweep to one degree and my rear toe in to 2 degrees and it was definately better in some aspects, but I AM
it appears still way off the pace. I am a bit stumped. I think the cars good and the motor and battery are very good. Heck-I even think I am driving decent lines and hitting the apex's. But still I lapped a 0.9 off the fastest lap recently. And thats HUGE!!!
I need to sit down and run pack after pack soon and make one change at a time till I find the key.
What i found is the car not as smooth through transitions so I am going to change to #2 ackerman position. Maybe with the changed arm sweep-its affected the ackerman.
Awaiting more testing,
Ray
I changed my front arm sweep to one degree and my rear toe in to 2 degrees and it was definately better in some aspects, but I AM
it appears still way off the pace. I am a bit stumped. I think the cars good and the motor and battery are very good. Heck-I even think I am driving decent lines and hitting the apex's. But still I lapped a 0.9 off the fastest lap recently. And thats HUGE!!!
I need to sit down and run pack after pack soon and make one change at a time till I find the key.
What i found is the car not as smooth through transitions so I am going to change to #2 ackerman position. Maybe with the changed arm sweep-its affected the ackerman.
Awaiting more testing,
Ray
#4373
new tobee part, one peice input shaft and spur adapter in aluminum insted of Ti in previous models.
#4374
FR input sold as one set
#4375
oops sorry from RC Square
#4376
So is that a Tobee or RC Square part??
Coz I have the Tobee part that comes with the 2 shafts and some shims. Without the spur adaptor.
Coz I have the Tobee part that comes with the 2 shafts and some shims. Without the spur adaptor.
#4378
Tech Regular
Has anyone bought the front knuckles by jet or square. Is there a difference. Are the square ones that much better to justify the large price difference?
Cheers,
Mossie
Cheers,
Mossie
#4379
A better question to ask is why get aluminum knuckles at all - they're heavier and more expensive. If they bend you're out of luck and will have to go with the plastic knuckles anyway.
#4380
Originally posted by Mossie
Has anyone bought the front knuckles by jet or square. Is there a difference. Are the square ones that much better to justify the large price difference?
Cheers,
Mossie
Has anyone bought the front knuckles by jet or square. Is there a difference. Are the square ones that much better to justify the large price difference?
Cheers,
Mossie
your money would be better spent on bevel gears, hubs, arms and cvd's