liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Now if they could just get rid of the "hump" we've been having to file down on the motor plate side of the lower pod to fit our squared up motors, like the Tekin Redlines. Just kidding, I know how to file.

Seriously, that revised pod looks nice.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I put my WGT back together yesterday with the Tekin 13.5 Redline/RS. I had to file the CF down to the bevelled edge, but the motor now sits square with no shimming required. I don't forsee an strength issues around that screw hole. I mounted the ESC toward the front of the nerfbar as close to the battery tray as possible on the left hand side. I mounted the receiver exactly oposite. I stuck the TQ booster to the receiver and routed the wires under the top plate, but over the battery along with the ESC wire coming from the opposite side. Plenty of space with the SMC 4900 1S 50C battery, close to 8mm. I cut the battery tray front lip off so the tray now drops in place. I also sanded a relief in the tray so the battery wires didn't rub on the tray. I mounted the battery with two 5mm X the width of the battery strips of servo tape right to the tray. Now if I have to run at a lipo sack facility, I can pull the whole tray and not lose the battery position when I charge. I still have to test, but this looks like it will work well. I should probably switch to shorter standoffs on the upper deck by 1/4 inch for the next change.

(it looks interesting with its 2 power switches next to each other now that the TQ has an inline switch.)

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

You are going to have to give us a pic. Sounds good.

There is more news on the bottom plate as I CAD up our New Powell (PRC)/Stranahan-RC heavy duty bottom plate.

First the bump is still there. You may wonder why. Well for some motor position and gears the motor is behind the hump. You get a stronger screw hole. If not you have to file it off still. A good solution would require a thicker piece of aluminum be used for the motor plate and then milled down to current size leaving a boss for the screw. Too expensive. A good cheaper solution is to make the motor plate longer at the bottom to have a tab for this screw. It is only back because of clearance concerns for T-plates which we don't have on the CRC car. This would mess up my Panhard bar mount location so I vote to leave it alone.

Pic CAD of new proposed HD bottom plate, New CRC bottom plate, Old pod bottom plate with old proposed HD bottom plate showing changes near the front of the plate. All photos show the bottom of the plate.
The left side of the new CRC pod is now wider. There is a large gusset at the left rear. You can see it as that angled piece on the interior in the pic of the CAD below. Both of these compensate for the lack of aluminum. The center of gravity is slightly lowered as a result. The front of the pod is the same however, so I still think our Heavy Duty pod is still a good deal. The adjustment notches are removed on the center ear. The outer holes for the side links are surrounded by 2-3 times more material and then there are those two extra holes in case you want to add a 3-link at some time in the future. You will probably never break this new heavy duty pod bottom plate.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

That plate looks beefy!

hippie

iTrader: (20)

I need to order a body for my WGT. What is the popular body ?.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Parma DB9, Protoform Sopia, Protoform C6R.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

liljohn-Thanks. Just that little bit more material will make it almost invunerable.

bodies I like, taller hood Saleen Mustang
shorter hood shorter car, Parma DB9
we are outside on a big track. There is no popular body yet. We have seen almost all of them. The Salleen is easier to drive, the DB9 may be a tad faster as it is about 3/4 inch shorter everywhere. It has no tail overhang at all similar to the Sophia. There is also plenty of detail, ridges vents scoops on the hood which stiffen it a lot. I like that feature on the DB9. It holds your front dam rock solid in place over the bumps.

New Web Page: Gen X 10 Building Tips

I have posted links to tips for building the Gen X 10 front end, Diff, Balance, etc before. Now I have put them all on a single page. It came out nice with thumbnails to photos on this web site. There are also links to the original articles in this thread at the end.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Genx10BuildingTips.html

hippie

iTrader: (20)

Thank's I saw the db9 that john posted it looked pretty good . For some reason im just not to fond of the vette . Are they all about the same or is there any real difference in performance, also which FR end brace do you guys like better the manutech one or the crc one ?. I forgot to mention my car would be used on carpet most of the time .

2wdrive

finaly received my bearings for the genx 10 front axle. They were different then the associated front axles so i had to order som new ones that fitted the crc front end. To my surprise i can't turn the nut fully cause the wheel won't turn then. It seems the axle is a little too short? i orderd the 1/10 genx 10 front suspension so i would think the axle would fit the 1/10 front tires from GRP?

slotracer577

My battle axe is the same way. Axles are too short or the wheels are too wide. they seem to hold ok as long as the nylock nut is still fresh.

john

2wdrive

uhmm is it that difficult to make an axle that actual fit the tires that are being used? I mean for what tires were they designed then? It seems they didn't think about the fact that we have to use bearings with a flang which makes them just a bit wider

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Loctite Front Nuts on Pan cars
All the pan cars that I have owned (dozens) used the front nut tension to set the side play on the front bearings. There is probably a variety of wheel widths as you change brands.

What I do, to secure the nut, is put the tiniest drop of blue Loctite inside the threads of the nut. You can blow out the excess. Wipe off the face of the nut with your finger. Now install the nut, set your side play by making sure the nut is snug but the wheel is free spinning, and it will stay put. If you put too much Loctite, it gets inside the bearing inner race, between it and the axle, and makes it adhere to the axle. This makes wheel removal difficult. Eventually the axle threads will have a coat of Loctite that makes the thread a bit gummy. Then you can quit adding more Loctite.

Can you say 3-link: this will part of the 24 picture assembly instructions which will be on a web page. (not available quite yet)

New Gen X 10 kit, left side hub
I have one instance of a new left side hub with a slot that was not cugt all the way through the flange. The hub would not tighten on the shaft and required a replacement. Thought I would mention it in case you come accross a similar problem.

2wdrive

The axle doesn't support the bearing completly, i.e. the axle isn't fully through the outer bearing of the front tires. The thread is starting roughly 1/4 of a milimeter inside the bearing. That is without the shim i still need to put in before the wheel goes in ( have orderd them) so i gues it will be somewhere in the 1/2 and 3/4th of a mm that the axle doesn't support the outer bearing. In some way or another it doesn't feel right to me but anyway.... will try it and see how it goes.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

I put new bearings in a new GRP front wheel. The fit is tight. I used a large allen driver through the bearing and forced the bearing in using the drivers handle. I assembled it on the kits new axle. It slides in and kind of catches before the second bearing is engaged. If you look at the back of the axle though you see the axle is not fully inserted. I continued and the fit is fine. The shoulder on the axle measure .450 inch. If you have that problem, and your axles are shorter than this then they are defective. E-mail for some new ones. 1/2 to 3/4 mm short is not a problem. It is intentional to fit the variety of wheels without side play.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

This is a new page that goes through the assembly of a 3-link rear end on a Gen X 10. This rear end is legal for all pan car classes at the present time. A couple of steps at the end are lacking but we have discussed them on the thread. These omitted steps are installing the nerf wings. Only one hole need be drilled, during the assembly, with a chrome plated ring as a guide. There is some sanding of graphite needed. Both tasks are on an inexpensive graphite side plate and are hard to mess up. The drill bit will be included. Not for sale yet.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/3linkassembly.html