Advantage R/C

iTrader: (2)

I can not seem to get my Savox SC-1258TG to fit in the car... The servo arm is hitting the edge of the servo and won't let the steering rack go past it. I know a few people at SRS that are using them but mine won't fit :/ Any help would be great! Thanks

fq06

iTrader: (12)

I sanded the face of the servo mount down a mm or so to pull the servo back enough for the arm to pass.

ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

Mine fit but clearance is is like thin as a hair no joke. Without the spacers of course.

Advantage R/C

iTrader: (2)

lol know I know what you mean forgot to take the spacers out. Barley clearing it!

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Even with no spacers my savox was not fitting correctly and would not allow the steering linkage pass the top of the case.

Had to take some material off the face that the servo mounts to for it to work.
Or get another servo, not a fan of savox so that was an option... but the lighter weight and less demand on the electronics compared to my SCT has been allowing it to run without issue. So the wheeler is it's new home for now.

Advantage R/C

iTrader: (2)

Mine barely fits

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Still at it. I am posting pics of how I do my battery tray. 5200 Reedy packs have some slop. This is how I do mine. Works great.

1st you have to get the spacer ready.
The fuzzy part of the velcro.


Applied.


Now to install the fuzzy part in the tray.
Put the spacer front and rear after applying the velcro to the spacer.


If you put the spacer front and rear you will see that the velcro on the tray has to be cut to length. It will make swapping the spacer front to rear easier to move. On my 1st kit I cut it to long and it pinched it in so tight it took an exacto to pluck it out when I wanted to move the spacer.


Now you can put the spacer any way you want and the pack will fit perfect with no play at all.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I use the abrasive part of the velcro on the out side of the tray and the fuzzy part on the shell.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

Do the TLR22 wheels fit on the rear of this buggy? I have a 22, and have a B44.2 on order.. trying to figure out if I need to buy all new wheelsets, or if I just need to buy the fronts for the B44.2.

Thanks in advance.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

To try and do the impossible and get a real clean look. I put some servo tape on the chassis and secure the wires to it. Then I put some servo tape over it and fold it is so the top is also sticking to the ESC and servo.


If you want to dress it out... Stickers do the trick. Or you could try to put a Mylaps TP in there..

poorboy racing

iTrader: (1)

i had to use a razor knife and trim my ball cup were it barely rubbed ....

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Hey guys I'm trying o one tune my driving style in 4wd buggy. What driving style do you guys employ? Do you charge down the straights/turns and apply breaks or do you lift as you approach the turns.

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

Just pull the trigger and don't let off

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Can you make it out to WCRC this "4wd Friday" ? I'll be there all day and can help.

Jesse H.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Amen...
Have you raced Nitro 1/8th? That's how I drive. I have my brakes set so there is control coming into the turn. As in not to much brake I can still jut steer under braking, the kit will just get upset or loose if I try to. I like to straight brake into the turn as best I can then roll into the apex then power out as soon as the kit just starts to square up. I don't run any drag brake either, gives more roll into and out of the turn. Soft brakes help if you have to thump them in the turn. Abrupt brakes are less controllable and will slow you down to much. Same as to much drag brake, save's a lot of manipulating the kit while its in the air to. But some times you just have to brake or throttle in the air no matter what.

Soooooo point and shoot coming out, slam on the brakes rollllll point and shoot, slam on the brakes, rolllllllll point and shoot.