orangetoe

Quick question about steering servo. I am running a zero S with the narrow graphite chassis and having issues getting full range of steering throw. Should I use the aluminum zero servo mount instead of the plastic? I cannot seem to get the ballstud on the servo to line up straight with the steering.

6376vette

Try adjusting the angle of the servo saver. at center mine points to the rear of the car. I had to do this to get smooth full throw.

clp.eng

Hello all.

I just finished building the S which is my 1st car. Quit an interesting experience. I started reading this thread (I'm on pg 12) but it will take a while to catch up. I learned some good stuff already.

I just mounted the motor (HobbyWing 9T) & am trying to decide what pinion to use. I've been reading about the FDR but not sure how to relate the gear chart to motor turns or kV. The chart shows pinions from 33 to 18 for the 80T spur gear. The FDR ranges from 8.44 to 4.61.

Any hints on how to choose or directions to where I can read up on it? Thanks.

Chuck

ttsquirrel

This might be a little off topic but some other people might want to know the same thing.... in some other forums, in the thread tools there is a link for all attachments to be seen. I dont see that in the thread tools for rctech.

does anyone know of a way to view all the attachments/pictures for this thread all at once without having to go thru each individual page?

thanks

TTS

ttsquirrel

my car is finished!!..i'm hoping to race tomorrow night at hobbytown in fresno.

my final drive ration is 4.0 using 38/19 and 72spur and 36 pinion. i might be able to get a 37 tooth in there but thought i should start with smaller first and check the temps of motor. i should be running temps of 140-170 i hope. please correct me if im wrong.

i now need to bind radio and set up esc. im using turnigy trackstar 3K 21turn 2pole motor and 80 amp esc combo.

im hoping this set up will be sufficient for the track as i really dont want to start having to work on the car tomorrow at the race.

TTS

ttsquirrel

ok here is my first problem after im completely done building car.

i switched out to 19T pullies but used the recommended starting points from the manual and the manual is using 20t pullies...arggh!!

the belts seem a little too loose so my questions are:

to tighten the belts are the bulkhead covers removed or just loosened? and are the bulkhead covers the only item i will have to mess with in order to tighten the belts? or is there something else i have to removed or loosen to gain access to the bearing holder?

approximately how much play should i have in each belt? i was at hobbytown earlier today and another brand car with similar setup had much tighter belts than i have currently.

thanks for helping the noob...

TTS

Yogi-

I like my belts a bit loose. You need to find the spot where the car is as free as possible with out the belts slapping around. To adjust you just roll the bearing housing ( I lift the covers off ) . My rear belt is quite loose. The last thing you want with a belt drive car is having the belts to tight. I had a losi xxxs years ago and I had every second tooth cut off the belt to make It roll better.

Yogi-

If I remember when I built mine the front belt was very tight even with the 19 tooth pully.

sonspit

Mine was also..they loosen on thier own once the belt stars to break in and stretch a little

ttsquirrel

well, my first day of racing didnt go well at all...

i was barely able to finish the car about 1 hr before the racing started. i am using this for my motor/esc. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=42712

i bought the trackstar programming card to setup the esc but the freaking card would not work with this esc!! and then

with no programming card and no instructions on how to setup esc, i was stuck. the car would drive but i had no brakes.

after getting all worked up about racing, i decided to go ahead and try to run anyway.

i entered the novice class and started some practice laps. more i tried to use the stock tires on asphalt. what a joke. ive never had a drift car before but that is exactly what i was doing on the course and that was with traction compound too. there was no way i could race with those. since im not completely inept, i had purchased some 36r slicks beforehand and put those on. what a huge difference.. now at least i could let off the throttle and coast thru a turn without wiping out.

1st q race i came in fourth of seven. the second q race, i nailed the wall along the back straight and broke the right knuclearm. i bought some extras from tq racing and was able to make the main. i started in last and that is where i finished. last place in a class of novices. oh well, at least i can justify it is pretty hard to keep up even with rookies when your car has no brakes...

now i have to try to fix my esc problem. anyone know how to program a turnity trackstart 80A esc without card? i am going to check the specs of an old esc i have and see if i can use it for my car. i have a programming card for the old esc but of course it wont work with the trackstar esc.

sometimes purchasing from hobbyking isnt worth the savings though for the most part, i have had pretty good luck with the items i have bought from them.

long winded post. time to cut the cord

TTS

kanamin

Hey man it's the driver of the other Zero S in that race :P (may have been more, but you know who it is, it was both our zeros' inaugural race). It's alright you had no brakes, and it was your first race. Those "novices" have been racing all season (or at least for a month now, I keep seeing the same names on the driver standings reports).

More relevant to the thread, I was thinking instead of getting a vertical motor mount, to get to the hidden screw on the stock motor mount could I just dremel a 2mm hex key shorter (make the short side of the L shorter) and just squeeze that in through either the bottom hole or dremel off some of the top deck? It could just be for tightening, and one could adjust mesh with the other screw first. I think the whole diff/belt reversal will still need to happen to make access to that screw easier, but it seems doable in concept. Has anyone tried this?

ttsquirrel

my last post went a little long so i ended it but i didnt get to talk about the car and how it performed and how to ask a couple questions about things

as I mentioned in my last post, i swapped out stock tires for 36r slicks. big difference with so much more grip. i am going to have to experiment with some new springs and even possibly new shocks. back on the work bench, the suspension doesnt feel anything like it did right after i built the shocks plus they are already leaking

steering was sensitive so i added some expo in. someone mentioned dual rates but i dont know what that is and how it would help or improve steering. i dont know how to add it to my radio either but my radio does support it. any tips on steering sensitivity would be appreciated.

i have the 19 tooth belt drive gears. the front belt is really loose now. to give you an idea of how loose, i can push the entire top of the belt flat against top deck from the front 38 gear to the 19 gear. i realize more loose is better that tight but i feel it needs to be tighter. does anyone have any tips on how to adjust the front bearing holder and besides the bulkhead, does anything else need to come off or be loosened?

other than the issues above, i am really happy with the car. i know once i get things set up correctly it will be just fine for me to drive. since the zero s is getting pushed out by the xi sport, im actually thinking about getting a xi sport and set it up for another class.

ok this post is getting long too...

thanks

TTS

kanamin

Hey did you not see my post? lol

Your GTX3 has a dual rate rocker switch near your thumb (it says D/R), and you can adjust it on the fly. All it does is limit the steering endpoint, so if you feel you're oversteering a bit you can push it to the left and decrease D/R, I had mine set to 73 last night and my car handled like a dream (then again there wasn't much power to knock it loose so YMMV).

My shocks were leaking already too, will Tamiya shocks fit?

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

If the shocks are only leaking from the top cap then these will stop them leaking. http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53576-d...?cPath=389_690

The top seals that come with the kit are rubbish and will leak no matter what you do to them (even the all alloy shocks do the same), replace them with the Tamiya seals and the shocks will work great, I rarely have to refill mine.

Cheers
Rob.

clp.eng

So I guess this thread is for racers only. Too bad you guys won't share w/ the rest of us since you all have so much good info.

Chuck