4LikesTeam Durango DETC410
03-24-2014, 10:15 PM
#421
How is the rear diff? i have a bd7 and i can't get it to stop leaking from the o-rings.
No noticble excessive leakage. Assembles without issues. The screws are a fine thread opposed to some diffs that use a self tapping screw.
How are the shocks? do they need rebuilding often? or are they similar to xray/tamiya shocks? does the shaft move left and right as well like the collar doesn't hold it well?
Seem pretty decent, the shock shaft is supported by a upper and lower locator bushing so it has good support on each end of the oring pocket.
I'm asking because i'm in the market for a new car, i have a BD7 2014, and i'm looking at this kit or the TC6.2 since they look similar and part support is great
in my area
No noticble excessive leakage. Assembles without issues. The screws are a fine thread opposed to some diffs that use a self tapping screw.
How are the shocks? do they need rebuilding often? or are they similar to xray/tamiya shocks? does the shaft move left and right as well like the collar doesn't hold it well?
Seem pretty decent, the shock shaft is supported by a upper and lower locator bushing so it has good support on each end of the oring pocket.
I'm asking because i'm in the market for a new car, i have a BD7 2014, and i'm looking at this kit or the TC6.2 since they look similar and part support is great
in my area
Last edited by Rodney Racer; 03-24-2014 at 10:30 PM.
03-24-2014, 10:23 PM
#422
When I did assemble the shocks I could never get a true zero rebound setting, my final shocks are at about 25% rebound with a very small amount of suck back. I think these will get better after a few more runs.
03-24-2014, 10:24 PM
#423
03-24-2014, 11:45 PM
#424
When i first saw the price of the car i was thinking wow why is the car so cheap compared to the other highend sedans after the build i see why its cheaper...most shims n kit r plastic.. not a big deal imo.. turnbuckles r aluminum, camberlinks r fine but the steering links will bend( i replaced with xray steering links). The plastic bits on the shocks r fine. This car handles very well and feels so smooth it's crazy, the handling and feel of this car is.... it's ridiculous
03-25-2014, 05:56 AM
#426
just started building mine, and ordered some aluminum spacers, and some hiro seiko gold screws for some bling, the plastic is on par with some of my tamiya cars, and the car is a lot cheeper then any of my tamiya cars, should have put in aluminum center pulleys, hate glueing the plastic retainers for the pulleys, but other then that a nice kit to build and hopfully will handle just as good or better
03-25-2014, 09:58 AM
#428
Not at the bench at the moment, but any of the springs that are in the 23mm height range will work, I have run original long Xray springs without issue and I know they are similar to the Yokomo springs, maybe slightly smaller diameter but will still work. So I would think your Tamiya and HPI springs should work as well, or anything that was used on a "normal" long shock, pre-short shock era. It is not what I would consider a "big bore" shock either.
03-25-2014, 12:07 PM
#431
Tech Rookie
Hey Guys
Does anyone know the size of the pin in
the rear dog bone. I know Tamyia is 2 mm
Im hoping for 2.5mm (.098")
Does anyone know the size of the pin in
the rear dog bone. I know Tamyia is 2 mm
Im hoping for 2.5mm (.098")
03-25-2014, 01:29 PM
#432
Can't wait to get it on the track.
03-25-2014, 04:03 PM
#435
You may also want to entertain converting Parma 8032 bumper to help with inevitable board hits on smaller indoor tracks. XRay 301223 will fit, but is not as wide. Both will need some modification.