Serpent 705
07-06-2003, 12:52 PM
#2401
Originally posted by markp27
Ah yeah, I've seen the carbon brace before - is it a track dependant thing, whether to mount the shocks on the blocks?
Ah yeah, I've seen the carbon brace before - is it a track dependant thing, whether to mount the shocks on the blocks?
The reason why I find this good besides the added rear traction is because for one thing, relying on the shock towers for the shock position can be dangerous when you're racing. If the shock tower cracks or bends for some reason, you car will be tweaked.
Originally posted by markp27
I'll be sending another order off to rccarinternational (boy these guys are getting rich from me!!!!), I want to carry an amount of spares, so that I don't have a gap of a couple of weeks when I have an accident
I'll be sending another order off to rccarinternational (boy these guys are getting rich from me!!!!), I want to carry an amount of spares, so that I don't have a gap of a couple of weeks when I have an accident
Originally posted by markp27
That all high ISO
Mr D! 
That all high ISO
Mr D!
07-06-2003, 12:58 PM
#2402
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm still testing it out. So far, I've not the need to go back to the shock towers on the most tracks I've tested. Pretty satisfied with the position of the rear shocks on the bearing blocks so far.
The reason why I find this good besides the added rear traction is because for one thing, relying on the shock towers for the shock position can be dangerous when you're racing. If the shock tower cracks or bends for some reason, you car will be tweaked.
Trust me, after a while your driving will improve. You will know this when you tend to buy less spares and break less parts.
Whatever...
I'm still testing it out. So far, I've not the need to go back to the shock towers on the most tracks I've tested. Pretty satisfied with the position of the rear shocks on the bearing blocks so far.
The reason why I find this good besides the added rear traction is because for one thing, relying on the shock towers for the shock position can be dangerous when you're racing. If the shock tower cracks or bends for some reason, you car will be tweaked.
Trust me, after a while your driving will improve. You will know this when you tend to buy less spares and break less parts.
Whatever...
Ok, night time in Germany - time for bed
Dreaming of racing and Cindy Crawford as grid girl
07-06-2003, 12:59 PM
#2403
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Suspension arms
Originally posted by markp27
Are you using a photoshop dust filter there?
Are you using a photoshop dust filter there?
Good one On the contrary, I despeckle and use a shapen filter
Originally posted by markp27
What filter are you using on your carb? Do all filters need oiling?
What filter are you using on your carb? Do all filters need oiling?
07-06-2003, 01:07 PM
#2404
Originally posted by markp27
Is there a carbon brace for the front end, too?
Is there a carbon brace for the front end, too?
Originally posted by markp27
Ok, night time in Germany - time for bed Dreaming of racing and Cindy Crawford as grid girl
Ok, night time in Germany - time for bed
Dreaming of racing and Cindy Crawford as grid girl
Hope I dream of being A main champ and get Kristanna Loken as the throphy girl
07-06-2003, 07:29 PM
#2405
Originally posted by InitialD
Well done
2. If you're running a clockwise track, you might want to fit the nipple on the tank on the opposite side. For counter clockwise track, the position of the nipple on the tank is correct.
Well done
2. If you're running a clockwise track, you might want to fit the nipple on the tank on the opposite side. For counter clockwise track, the position of the nipple on the tank is correct.
Hi InitialD,
Wats the different effect of your above said.
07-06-2003, 07:55 PM
#2406
Re: Re: Wait for it to free up???????
Originally posted by modellor
Ok,
So you like to take a few extra hours and make sure everything is free. Fine. But here's a little tech info for you. For each part to work perfectly under racing conditions it has to be a snug fit yet still free. By running the car around all the parts wear to that perfect snug fit and become free to move without incurring any slop. Fair enough, if you take the time you could probably make the parts a perfect fit by hand but you also increase the chance of inducing highly unnecessary slop.
Someone also stated that they wouldnt set a car down on the track until it was completely free. Well, neither will I. I run the car in a local carpark until it is free all round before it touches a track also. I am no amateur or beginner and I only use the best proven methods over the past 16yrs.
Bad ideas - Drilling out the wishbone to fit the hingepins. Unless the wishbone is held in a support and the drill is of the vertical or horizontal bench type it is impossible to drill out a hole accurately. The drill has torque power which will try to pull it to one side and while it may appear to track down the hinge pin hole it will run slightly to one side. This leaves slop on the hinge pin.
Hair dryers are also bad idea. Heating the plastic will warp the wishbone plastic (maybe unnoticeable to the eye) Again this will induce hingepin wear and at worst cause the car to be in a constant state of unbalance. Even if the wishbone survives the heating and doesnt warp the plastic will cool at different rates throughtout a given wishbone which will cause uneven flex rate in the plastic which again will give a constant unbalanced car.
Believe me, if spending an extra 3 or 4 hrs would be beneficial I would gladly stop spending 5-10 hrs + running the car around to get it freed properly.
Ok,
So you like to take a few extra hours and make sure everything is free. Fine. But here's a little tech info for you. For each part to work perfectly under racing conditions it has to be a snug fit yet still free. By running the car around all the parts wear to that perfect snug fit and become free to move without incurring any slop. Fair enough, if you take the time you could probably make the parts a perfect fit by hand but you also increase the chance of inducing highly unnecessary slop.
Someone also stated that they wouldnt set a car down on the track until it was completely free. Well, neither will I. I run the car in a local carpark until it is free all round before it touches a track also. I am no amateur or beginner and I only use the best proven methods over the past 16yrs.
Bad ideas - Drilling out the wishbone to fit the hingepins. Unless the wishbone is held in a support and the drill is of the vertical or horizontal bench type it is impossible to drill out a hole accurately. The drill has torque power which will try to pull it to one side and while it may appear to track down the hinge pin hole it will run slightly to one side. This leaves slop on the hinge pin.
Hair dryers are also bad idea. Heating the plastic will warp the wishbone plastic (maybe unnoticeable to the eye) Again this will induce hingepin wear and at worst cause the car to be in a constant state of unbalance. Even if the wishbone survives the heating and doesnt warp the plastic will cool at different rates throughtout a given wishbone which will cause uneven flex rate in the plastic which again will give a constant unbalanced car.
Believe me, if spending an extra 3 or 4 hrs would be beneficial I would gladly stop spending 5-10 hrs + running the car around to get it freed properly.
Well if everyone did it the way you do, the fuel&tire companys would be overjoyed. I do run serpents and have done so for many years, but oyher Co`s. produce parts that fit with small tollerances that can be easily shimmed up. I just think if you are buyiny the so/called best make them that way!
HEY!!!!!!!!!
07-06-2003, 08:15 PM
#2408
Originally posted by apmk
Hi InitialD,
Wats the different effect of your above said.
Hi InitialD,
Wats the different effect of your above said.
My guess is that say when the fuel tank leans to the left side on turning right, pressure from the nipple at the right side of the cap will push the fuel back to counter the leaning effect.
Perhaps somebody else know a better reason for that...
07-06-2003, 10:37 PM
#2409
Traction
Dose anybody knows the meaning of "Traction Roll"
07-06-2003, 11:01 PM
#2410
Traction roll is when you have too much traction in the front or the rear of the car that makes your car flip over in the middle of a corner.
Traction roll is usually a result of using too large tires, too high ride height, too much droop, too much camber or too soft suspension that the body rolls too much in the corner.
Ways to reduce traction roll is to use as low a ride height as possible to keep the CG low, use smaller tires to limit the side wall tire flex and keep the roll center high, reduce the negative camber, add or harden sway bars to stiffen and to limit droop.
Traction roll is usually a result of using too large tires, too high ride height, too much droop, too much camber or too soft suspension that the body rolls too much in the corner.
Ways to reduce traction roll is to use as low a ride height as possible to keep the CG low, use smaller tires to limit the side wall tire flex and keep the roll center high, reduce the negative camber, add or harden sway bars to stiffen and to limit droop.
07-06-2003, 11:28 PM
#2411
Originally posted by InitialD
Traction roll is when you have too much traction in the front or the rear of the car that makes your car flip over in the middle of a corner.
Traction roll is usually a result of using too large tires, too high ride height, too much droop, too much camber or too soft suspension that the body rolls too much in the corner.
Ways to reduce traction roll is to use as low a ride height as possible to keep the CG low, use smaller tires to limit the side wall tire flex and keep the roll center high, reduce the negative camber, add or harden sway bars to stiffen and to limit droop.
Traction roll is when you have too much traction in the front or the rear of the car that makes your car flip over in the middle of a corner.
Traction roll is usually a result of using too large tires, too high ride height, too much droop, too much camber or too soft suspension that the body rolls too much in the corner.
Ways to reduce traction roll is to use as low a ride height as possible to keep the CG low, use smaller tires to limit the side wall tire flex and keep the roll center high, reduce the negative camber, add or harden sway bars to stiffen and to limit droop.
07-07-2003, 11:12 AM
#2412
ok... im goin back to my lhs on saturday and im gettin a battery pack and chager.... im going to get the serpent battery pack and i dont know which charger. about the battery pack, should i build my own or should i get the serpent one... which will last longer, etc. im going to ask the guys there about chargers but i think i know which im goin to get.
07-07-2003, 11:48 AM
#2413
also, anyone know where i can pre-order the new novarossi ns engine??
07-07-2003, 01:35 PM
#2414
since it took you forever to build 705, i suggest you just go ahead and buy pre built pack.
to charger receiver packs, you have many options. all depends on how much money you want to spend on it.(although i think if you are in rc racing, you should have a at least 1 decent charger)
if you are on a budget just get a wall charger that will charge it overnight at .5amps
to charger receiver packs, you have many options. all depends on how much money you want to spend on it.(although i think if you are in rc racing, you should have a at least 1 decent charger)
if you are on a budget just get a wall charger that will charge it overnight at .5amps
07-07-2003, 01:48 PM
#2415
k... reason it took so long to build is cuz it was waiting to be built for 2 weeks... then i came out west and started... and i need the pay checks to continue..