Carpet VTA car?
12-29-2012, 09:59 PM
#1
Carpet VTA car?
So interest here in SoCal is growing for VTA. Since some races are starting up on carpet, I was wondering if I should look more at the TC4 or the Spec S1. I've heard that shaft is better than belt for carpet situations, but running 21.5 I don't know whether or not it would make that much of a difference.
12-30-2012, 05:57 AM
#2
Tech Addict
It is not VTA if you're running 21.5. It is just some made up class.
Post the same question in the VTA specific thread.
Post the same question in the VTA specific thread.
12-30-2012, 07:53 AM
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
21.5 makes it USGT. Get ready for all of the VTA purists to yell at you about how you are compromising the integrity of the greatest class known to man. Then tell them to shove it.
There are very few shaft-driven touring cars out there nowadays, and I am not sure about the truthfulness of that statement (shaft being better than belt) to begin with. I would recommend the Spec-R. I don't have one myself, but they seem like solid cars for a great price.
Other good cars are the normal touring options (ARC, XRay, Tamiya, etc). There tends to be a lot of bump and grind in VTA and the cars actually roll pretty easily when hit (and they can drive over a lot of boards), so durability is something to think about.
There are very few shaft-driven touring cars out there nowadays, and I am not sure about the truthfulness of that statement (shaft being better than belt) to begin with. I would recommend the Spec-R. I don't have one myself, but they seem like solid cars for a great price.
Other good cars are the normal touring options (ARC, XRay, Tamiya, etc). There tends to be a lot of bump and grind in VTA and the cars actually roll pretty easily when hit (and they can drive over a lot of boards), so durability is something to think about.
12-30-2012, 09:08 AM
#7
Just because YOU PERSONALLY have a problem with VTA doesn't mean its a bad class. Why don't we just run 13.5 motors in 17.5 spec sedan, or bring boost into blinky? VTA works BECAUSE OF it's rule structure, not in spite of.
Back to the OP. VTA is a great class and I hope you have alot of fun (no matter what motor you decide to run)! For carpet a belted car tends to be smoother IMHO. For asphalt I'd give the nod to the shaft car.
The nicer the car the easier it is to setup and then tend to be more durable. If used doesn't bother you check out the F/S section and look for a T3 and you can sometimes find them for as little as $200-250! If you want new and are on a budget check out the Sakura S Zero or the AE TC4
Clean, smooth driving is the biggest thing. Good luck and have fun!
Back to the OP. VTA is a great class and I hope you have alot of fun (no matter what motor you decide to run)! For carpet a belted car tends to be smoother IMHO. For asphalt I'd give the nod to the shaft car.
The nicer the car the easier it is to setup and then tend to be more durable. If used doesn't bother you check out the F/S section and look for a T3 and you can sometimes find them for as little as $200-250! If you want new and are on a budget check out the Sakura S Zero or the AE TC4
Clean, smooth driving is the biggest thing. Good luck and have fun!
21.5 makes it USGT. Get ready for all of the VTA purists to yell at you about how you are compromising the integrity of the greatest class known to man. Then tell them to shove it.
There are very few shaft-driven touring cars out there nowadays, and I am not sure about the truthfulness of that statement (shaft being better than belt) to begin with. I would recommend the Spec-R. I don't have one myself, but they seem like solid cars for a great price.
Other good cars are the normal touring options (ARC, XRay, Tamiya, etc). There tends to be a lot of bump and grind in VTA and the cars actually roll pretty easily when hit (and they can drive over a lot of boards), so durability is something to think about.
There are very few shaft-driven touring cars out there nowadays, and I am not sure about the truthfulness of that statement (shaft being better than belt) to begin with. I would recommend the Spec-R. I don't have one myself, but they seem like solid cars for a great price.
Other good cars are the normal touring options (ARC, XRay, Tamiya, etc). There tends to be a lot of bump and grind in VTA and the cars actually roll pretty easily when hit (and they can drive over a lot of boards), so durability is something to think about.
12-30-2012, 05:21 PM
#10
Tech Regular
I and many others at my local club are running xray t3'12 and t4
12-30-2012, 06:23 PM
#11
Wong, the class is set up so that most any old chassis will work to a degree. I run an XRay T2'07 and it does very well even tho its a 6yo chassis. Its all about what YOU want. I been running XRay since June and haven't broken ANYTHING yet. By going with an older chassis you can usually find ones that have alot of options installed on them already too.
12-30-2012, 11:13 PM
#13
You would get much more help if you asked in the USVTA thread instead of here.
12-31-2012, 06:00 AM
#14
We have been seeing a lot of the TC4 Club racers showing up at our local track and doing quite well amongst a sea of other chassis. With the way the rules are set up for vta with the 25.5, esc, and tire/wheel limitations, it really keeps everyone on a pretty much level playing field regardless. 21.5 isn't going to make a huge difference with that either, IMO. A track not far from the one I race at calls their 21.5 VTA class "Outlaw VTA", and has the 25.5 spec class as well. Having both has worked well for them.
12-31-2012, 01:59 PM
#15
Most tracks will let you run in some class or another.
As far as chassis types: TC4 is just about bullet proof and feels snappier off the corners with the shaft drive. Minimum weight is like 1500g anyway. We have a guy running a TC3 in 17.5 and he's contending for the top spot week in and week out. I have 3 TC3s for VTA, 2 are 25.5 and one 21.5. If you like side by side racing, opt for the 25.5 when you can afford it. The 21.5 can run in USGT or F1 too. Lots of options.
Most important part: Have fun!
As far as chassis types: TC4 is just about bullet proof and feels snappier off the corners with the shaft drive. Minimum weight is like 1500g anyway. We have a guy running a TC3 in 17.5 and he's contending for the top spot week in and week out. I have 3 TC3s for VTA, 2 are 25.5 and one 21.5. If you like side by side racing, opt for the 25.5 when you can afford it. The 21.5 can run in USGT or F1 too. Lots of options.
Most important part: Have fun!