The Speed Passion Thread
#8057
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
need help
hi all!! just want to know if the HobbyWing 2-in-1 Advanced Professional LCD Program Box will work on my SP GT2.0 to upload the 323 STOCK software?... they physically look the same...
http://www.hobbypartz.com/hobbywing-...ogram-box.html
http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...=SPLCD01&c=OPT
my objective is to have my GT2.0 esc installed with "supercharger"... on my sp 10.5t motor.
please help,,, thank you in advance!
http://www.hobbypartz.com/hobbywing-...ogram-box.html
http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...=SPLCD01&c=OPT
my objective is to have my GT2.0 esc installed with "supercharger"... on my sp 10.5t motor.
please help,,, thank you in advance!
#8060
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Been testing for our big local race coming up next weedend in the Touring 13.5 Boosted Class. Solara suggested I use Howard Lo’s setup as a starting point. Thanks guys!
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...Howard%20L.jpg
Here’s what I got so far driving a 2 year old Photon, 2.1GT Prostock with 323 software, FDR 6.9 with an older type Orca 13.5T (can’t change motor timing) and not even a fan cause my car weighs around 1430 Grams already when the new weight limit is 1380. I’m okay with that.
Settings:
1 . 1
2 . 25%
3 . 5
4 . 7
5 . 100%
6 . 100%
7 . = Drag Brake
8 . 6%
9 . 48
10 . 18
11 . enable
12 . 16
13 . 4000
14 . 0.2 sec
15 . 500
Car finally ran awesome after tweeking Howard’s settings and almost equal to the fast laps of all the other cars with their fancy Tekins. Motor temps after 6 mins with warm up laps is 150 F. Like that to.
However, the few issues I have is that the brakes are not strong enough for me to slow down to make a corner as sharp therefore I had to turn the drag brake on to accommodate it. Acceleration is just a tad slower than the Tekins and the final acceleration at around 60 feet is also a tad slower. Our track is a med-high grip Ozite around 36x80 Feet free flowing track fast laps of 7.7sec.
Any suggestions to remedy this WITHOUT increasing temps further? The track at the upcoming race maybe have a 100 feet straight. Was planning to double side tape a fan on the chassis to make the motor cooler but even a super powerful SpeedPassion fan is like 10grams. My car is too heavy already and it’s already not balanced left to right.
Thanks for any advice and I do really like this speedo!
Ivan
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...Howard%20L.jpg
Here’s what I got so far driving a 2 year old Photon, 2.1GT Prostock with 323 software, FDR 6.9 with an older type Orca 13.5T (can’t change motor timing) and not even a fan cause my car weighs around 1430 Grams already when the new weight limit is 1380. I’m okay with that.
Settings:
1 . 1
2 . 25%
3 . 5
4 . 7
5 . 100%
6 . 100%
7 . = Drag Brake
8 . 6%
9 . 48
10 . 18
11 . enable
12 . 16
13 . 4000
14 . 0.2 sec
15 . 500
Car finally ran awesome after tweeking Howard’s settings and almost equal to the fast laps of all the other cars with their fancy Tekins. Motor temps after 6 mins with warm up laps is 150 F. Like that to.
However, the few issues I have is that the brakes are not strong enough for me to slow down to make a corner as sharp therefore I had to turn the drag brake on to accommodate it. Acceleration is just a tad slower than the Tekins and the final acceleration at around 60 feet is also a tad slower. Our track is a med-high grip Ozite around 36x80 Feet free flowing track fast laps of 7.7sec.
Any suggestions to remedy this WITHOUT increasing temps further? The track at the upcoming race maybe have a 100 feet straight. Was planning to double side tape a fan on the chassis to make the motor cooler but even a super powerful SpeedPassion fan is like 10grams. My car is too heavy already and it’s already not balanced left to right.
Thanks for any advice and I do really like this speedo!
Ivan
Anyhow, lower acc (#15) to 400 and give that a try...keep an eye on motor temp, it will get hotter. You cannot get the car go faster and more punch without gaining motor temp.
If it has room to add more power, increase #10 to 24*/rpm from 18*.
Also, if motor runs cooler...the weight of the car is NOT that much important as the motor can MOVE the car fast enough....add fan on BOOST race is a must (at least for me)....
#8061
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Ok I just wanted to make sure it's not limited if I have to run less than mod
On a second note does the GT2.0 Pro Brushless ESC also work the same with firmware change like the 12th one so I can run the .5 classes as well as mod
Curious also when say running TC mod and 17.5 how does a racer deal with that between heats for both. This also applies to the 12th
I just want to know what to do when running both at big races
Thank you
On a second note does the GT2.0 Pro Brushless ESC also work the same with firmware change like the 12th one so I can run the .5 classes as well as mod
Curious also when say running TC mod and 17.5 how does a racer deal with that between heats for both. This also applies to the 12th
I just want to know what to do when running both at big races
Thank you
GT2 PRO and GT2 EX are exactly the same thing with same spec except EX has build in booster so it can work with the 1S lipo without an external booster pack. However, when running MOD...we suggest to mount a receiver pack just to keep the servo and AMB work thru out the entire 8 minutes. It is not just for SP esc, I think it is a standard practice for all MOD 12th scale racer to use receiver pack.
I hope you are not talking about using the SAME CAR SAME ESC but running between rounds on MOD and stock with boost.......if you are, you will have a hard time to upload, download software and setting between rounds....you have to have 2 cars for that unless you are running some very small carpet track, then you can run boost stock setup on both boost stock and MOD cause boost stock can be very fast for small track layout as MOD just cannot use up the motor in small area.
#8062
GT PRO2.0 / SA V2.0 5.5R MOD SETTINGS SC10 4X4
Just completed building my SC104x4 last week with the ESC/BL motor combo above and need help with the ESC settings. I already uploaded the latest software for my LCD box but not sure which MOD software I should use. The GT PRO already came with the default 090205MOD settings and I uploaded the more recent one (11xxxxMOD).
Don't have any plans of racing anytime soon. Plan to go to the park with my daughter and chase her TRF801xt nitro truggy around for fun. Need to know a good MOD setting were it won't fry the ESC/BL while having fun at the park. My SC104x4's FDR is @ 12.26 with 32P 13/62 pinion/spur gear as manual suggests for 550 5.5T BL motors.
Thank you to anyone who can help.
Don't have any plans of racing anytime soon. Plan to go to the park with my daughter and chase her TRF801xt nitro truggy around for fun. Need to know a good MOD setting were it won't fry the ESC/BL while having fun at the park. My SC104x4's FDR is @ 12.26 with 32P 13/62 pinion/spur gear as manual suggests for 550 5.5T BL motors.
Thank you to anyone who can help.
#8063
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Ivan, Solara = Howard = Me....LOL
Anyhow, lower acc (#15) to 400 and give that a try...keep an eye on motor temp, it will get hotter. You cannot get the car go faster and more punch without gaining motor temp.
If it has room to add more power, increase #10 to 24*/rpm from 18*.
Also, if motor runs cooler...the weight of the car is NOT that much important as the motor can MOVE the car fast enough....add fan on BOOST race is a must (at least for me)....
Anyhow, lower acc (#15) to 400 and give that a try...keep an eye on motor temp, it will get hotter. You cannot get the car go faster and more punch without gaining motor temp.
If it has room to add more power, increase #10 to 24*/rpm from 18*.
Also, if motor runs cooler...the weight of the car is NOT that much important as the motor can MOVE the car fast enough....add fan on BOOST race is a must (at least for me)....
2 other questions:
Is it okay to take the fan off the speedo and double side tape that fan to the chassis for the motor?
I got that problem of the speedo occasionally when I turn it on and throttle a bit, it reverts to the green blinking light (no timing mode). I turn it off and on again and it seems to fix the problem for the time being. I've read it's either my sensor wire or the sensor port on the motor. Am I correct?
Thanks again for all the help,
Ivan
#8064
GT2 PRO and GT2 EX are exactly the same thing with same spec except EX has build in booster so it can work with the 1S lipo without an external booster pack. However, when running MOD...we suggest to mount a receiver pack just to keep the servo and AMB work thru out the entire 8 minutes. It is not just for SP esc, I think it is a standard practice for all MOD 12th scale racer to use receiver pack.
BUT i havn't got my whole 1/12th yet , waiting for it to arrive from the UK
#8065
#8066
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
The entire SPEED PASSION GT series ESC are all software interchangable...each ESC can run all the software from 508 no timing (blinky) to straight mod 205g, or boost stock (323stock) or boost mod (119mod)...every GT can run these software by simply changing from the laptop computer via our LCD programmer card.
GT2 PRO and GT2 EX are exactly the same thing with same spec except EX has build in booster so it can work with the 1S lipo without an external booster pack. However, when running MOD...we suggest to mount a receiver pack just to keep the servo and AMB work thru out the entire 8 minutes. It is not just for SP esc, I think it is a standard practice for all MOD 12th scale racer to use receiver pack.
I hope you are not talking about using the SAME CAR SAME ESC but running between rounds on MOD and stock with boost.......if you are, you will have a hard time to upload, download software and setting between rounds....you have to have 2 cars for that unless you are running some very small carpet track, then you can run boost stock setup on both boost stock and MOD cause boost stock can be very fast for small track layout as MOD just cannot use up the motor in small area.
GT2 PRO and GT2 EX are exactly the same thing with same spec except EX has build in booster so it can work with the 1S lipo without an external booster pack. However, when running MOD...we suggest to mount a receiver pack just to keep the servo and AMB work thru out the entire 8 minutes. It is not just for SP esc, I think it is a standard practice for all MOD 12th scale racer to use receiver pack.
I hope you are not talking about using the SAME CAR SAME ESC but running between rounds on MOD and stock with boost.......if you are, you will have a hard time to upload, download software and setting between rounds....you have to have 2 cars for that unless you are running some very small carpet track, then you can run boost stock setup on both boost stock and MOD cause boost stock can be very fast for small track layout as MOD just cannot use up the motor in small area.
Now I have to find place to buy the GT V2.1 EX Brushless ESC one for a reasonable price and they seem to not have any at my local track or even online
In suggestion would be nice to have speed pashion have multiple settings for different classes, like with transmitted models so all the software would be in the speedo just have button or something to skip to 17.5 setting or mod so second car wouldn't have to be used
Seems kinda crazy to have 2 12th and 2 TC...lol
Thanks again
Last edited by Infinite 12th; 10-10-2011 at 01:37 PM.
#8067
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Just completed building my SC104x4 last week with the ESC/BL motor combo above and need help with the ESC settings. I already uploaded the latest software for my LCD box but not sure which MOD software I should use. The GT PRO already came with the default 090205MOD settings and I uploaded the more recent one (11xxxxMOD).
Don't have any plans of racing anytime soon. Plan to go to the park with my daughter and chase her TRF801xt nitro truggy around for fun. Need to know a good MOD setting were it won't fry the ESC/BL while having fun at the park. My SC104x4's FDR is @ 12.26 with 32P 13/62 pinion/spur gear as manual suggests for 550 5.5T BL motors.
Thank you to anyone who can help.
Don't have any plans of racing anytime soon. Plan to go to the park with my daughter and chase her TRF801xt nitro truggy around for fun. Need to know a good MOD setting were it won't fry the ESC/BL while having fun at the park. My SC104x4's FDR is @ 12.26 with 32P 13/62 pinion/spur gear as manual suggests for 550 5.5T BL motors.
Thank you to anyone who can help.
You should turn DOWN the AMTS timing within the 205g just to play safe....check motor temp and increase your timing and gearing if temperature allow you do so.
#8069
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
hi all!! just want to know if the HobbyWing 2-in-1 Advanced Professional LCD Program Box will work on my SP GT2.0 to upload the 323 STOCK software?... they physically look the same...
http://www.hobbypartz.com/hobbywing-...ogram-box.html
http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...=SPLCD01&c=OPT
my objective is to have my GT2.0 esc installed with "supercharger"... on my sp 10.5t motor.
please help,,, thank you in advance!
http://www.hobbypartz.com/hobbywing-...ogram-box.html
http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...=SPLCD01&c=OPT
my objective is to have my GT2.0 esc installed with "supercharger"... on my sp 10.5t motor.
please help,,, thank you in advance!
#8070
If you are bashing...I think you should stick with the 205G software cause that software does not have BOOST/Supercharger feature like the one that you loaded (110119mod)....the 110119mod is for full race condition that required alot more complicated setting...if not handle right, yes, you can blow up the motor and esc easily.
You should turn DOWN the AMTS timing within the 205g just to play safe....check motor temp and increase your timing and gearing if temperature allow you do so.
You should turn DOWN the AMTS timing within the 205g just to play safe....check motor temp and increase your timing and gearing if temperature allow you do so.
Solara, would a SA V2.0 5.5R work with the Losi or should I get the Cirtix Slotless Sensored Motor for 1/8 - 2200/2500KV?
Thanks again for the help.