big ted

iTrader: (2)

Our indoor carpet track runs midweek club races where numbers don't justify separate mod & stock classes. Also, for 4wd, there's not much in it between the 13.5 & mod times, so I'm very happy to run my 13.5 motor in the 'open' category.

Aside from removing dynamic ESC timing for racing in a 'stock' class, i'm curious if there's anything else easy that one might change from midweek open racing to weekend stock racing. In particular I'm curious what I might change in gearing. Right now my gearing is considerably lower for open racing from what I see recommended for my motor for stock racing, but with considerable boost timing added by the esc I don't feel like I'm giving up too much on the straight...

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Not sure what car you're running, but most brands offer "lightened drive line parts" designed specifically for stock racing, ceramic bearings are a must, I like to run ceramics from AVID in the Aura single metal shield series. Other tricks to reduce rotating mass are running 2WD wheels up front without foam inserts, not to be confused with cut carpet wheels, I'll still run a 4WD front tire, typically ProLine Prisms, but with no foams up front. Plan to spend between $200-$300 in upgrades to gain a competitive edge in stock racing.

big ted

iTrader: (2)

Right. Sorry, to be clear I'm looking particularly for things that could reasonably be swapped out on a twice-weekly basis. Obviously, having two dedicated cars where the stock car has all sorts of lightweight goodies gives less of a compromise, but I'm not going to replace the drivetrain twice a week. Plus, my driving isn't quite at the point where I'll see much benefit from lightweight drive shafts of I'm truly honest!

waitwhat

iTrader: (4)

It comes down to how much dynamic timing you are running. If you are running a lot of dynamic timing, your motor end bell timing needs to be 15-20% lower than where it would be for optimal performance in blinky mode. Additionally the gearing would be about 15-20% lower than the optimal gearing for a blinky setup.

So if you plan to switch between dynamic timing and blinky you would need to switch gearing and reset the endbell timing.

chuck_thehammer

try just turning OFF the blinky mode... HAVE FUN... gearing is easy to change..

TRY IT FIRST.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

main reason why you're seeing 13.5 lap times close to mod is because folks have tuned their stock rigs to get the max potential, not uncommon to see folks run their same 13.5 rigs in mod in our area just to get more race time when folks show up for mod... only difference is they might add a little boost in the mod class, then put back into blinky for the stock class, with the exact same car.

13.5 gearing is very different depending on what motor you buy, the club in my area allows outlaw motors with the Trinity Punisher being the fastest motor by a long shot, this helps reduce costs for a cheap $60 motor and has ended the motor war. If your club requires a ROAR approved motor, then plan to spend $150+ for a team certified/tuned motor, or spend $80 on a motor analyzer to properly tune a stock motor yourself.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

13.5 isn't close to modified because of anything that's been done to the cars, it just illustrates that from 13.5 to modified, there isn't much opportunity in increased power as it translates to lap times. A stock drivetrain is plenty competitive even in 17.5 blinky. All the lightweight $tuff makes a small difference.

I think waitwhat's point is more pertinent to your question. If you've going back & forth between blinky and boost, it's practically a motor swap as a motor set up for timing boost will be pretty far off for blinky. Perhaps bullet connectors are an option?

071crazy

iTrader: (8)

How about just setting everything up gearing/timing for blinky and running it in both classes?

You won't need any special parts for the time being, and dont bother with the 150$ motors etc. Setup and corner speed mean a lot more than any hop-ups.