DO SHOCK BODIES GO BAD??
11-16-2010, 10:32 AM
#1
DO SHOCK BODIES GO BAD??
So I have built and rebuilt many shocks. They are the Team Associated shocks (not the new V2 ones). Usually it is hassle free and everything clicks and locks into place. Well last night I battled to get it to lock or snap in. I destroyed a ton of o-rings in the process and finally had to hammer it into place. It will probably leak (haven't tried yet) and getting the stuff out next rebuild might be tough. My question is do the inside of the shock bodies some how go "bad". Thoughts???
11-16-2010, 11:06 AM
#2
The inside of the Ae shocks never go "bad" ...
You may have
*left a old shim inside
*failed to trim the flash off the spacers
* install the cartridge crooked, check and look if the shims have seated flat inside
You may have
*left a old shim inside
*failed to trim the flash off the spacers
* install the cartridge crooked, check and look if the shims have seated flat inside
11-16-2010, 11:35 AM
#4
The inside of older AE shocks and and do go bad, somewhat quickly. If your bodies are not dark green in color then you do not have the later hard anodized bodies (the loght ones were teflon coated). When they're worn out the shock oil will turn black relatively fast, this is aluminum wearing off from piston rub.
This alone shouldn't cause your shocks to lock up though, you probably have wear in the guide bushings. If you have to apply that much force to the seal assembly I'd be inclined to believe that there's an extra piece in the stack of bushings and seals taking up space. Do the shaft/seals feel really tight?
This alone shouldn't cause your shocks to lock up though, you probably have wear in the guide bushings. If you have to apply that much force to the seal assembly I'd be inclined to believe that there's an extra piece in the stack of bushings and seals taking up space. Do the shaft/seals feel really tight?
11-16-2010, 11:44 AM
#5
I got a bad rear shock body from a brand new FT B4.0 kit last year. I tried to widen the C clip hole to prevent the binding I could feel and that seemed to work, but the shock would not hold oil very long. I replaced the shock body and everything is good again.
11-16-2010, 12:36 PM
#6
The inside of older AE shocks and and do go bad, somewhat quickly. If your bodies are not dark green in color then you do not have the later hard anodized bodies (the loght ones were teflon coated). When they're worn out the shock oil will turn black relatively fast, this is aluminum wearing off from piston rub.
This alone shouldn't cause your shocks to lock up though, you probably have wear in the guide bushings. If you have to apply that much force to the seal assembly I'd be inclined to believe that there's an extra piece in the stack of bushings and seals taking up space. Do the shaft/seals feel really tight?
This alone shouldn't cause your shocks to lock up though, you probably have wear in the guide bushings. If you have to apply that much force to the seal assembly I'd be inclined to believe that there's an extra piece in the stack of bushings and seals taking up space. Do the shaft/seals feel really tight?
11-16-2010, 01:23 PM
#8
The shock bodies themselves shouldn't go bad, unless abused. The rebuild kit snap ring may not be good or coulc be damaged.
11-16-2010, 01:55 PM
#9
I say if in doubt, just replace the body.
11-16-2010, 02:16 PM
#11
Your money .....
if you do buy ?
Get the V2 shock and you won't have to trim the shims ...
The shocks you have will go together a lot better if you also Green Slime the seals first before installing ....
BDW
Don't be fooled by some who say you have a worn out shock body ...
if you do buy ?
Get the V2 shock and you won't have to trim the shims ...
The shocks you have will go together a lot better if you also Green Slime the seals first before installing ....
BDW
Don't be fooled by some who say you have a worn out shock body ...
11-16-2010, 02:32 PM
#12
If the oil turns into metallic black molasses, the shock body's coating has been worn through by the piston and is bad (I've had 3 B4's, the first two did this). The seal area of the body can also wear if not maintained, the hole in the bottom of the body can ovalize and/or become oversized over time, especially if run in dirtier outdoor conditions. If the second part happens, the first part will also happen because of the piston becoming it's own primary guide bushing.
The above conditions are not unique to AE shocks, they can happen to any shock.
The above conditions are not unique to AE shocks, they can happen to any shock.
11-16-2010, 02:59 PM
#13
Agree. I've had the inside of the body get rubbed away by the piston and then you can feel the piston scraping the inside of the shock body as it compresses. You can see the wear inside the shock body as well. It takes quite a few race days but it does eventually happen. I was told by a team driver that there is a teflon coating inside the shock body that wears away.
As far as the shock not going together correctly, something must have been done incorrectly or left in the shock. That shouldn't happen. I say start over. It's not that big a deal and a rebuild kit is only like $4.
As far as the shock not going together correctly, something must have been done incorrectly or left in the shock. That shouldn't happen. I say start over. It's not that big a deal and a rebuild kit is only like $4.
11-16-2010, 03:50 PM
#14
ive been wondering with one of my ft b4 shocks. i noticed it leaking so i cleaned it and rebuilt it but i noticed the other day that it leaked out again
11-16-2010, 04:05 PM
#15
