Reedy's new Stock Motor (Stockstar)
11-21-2007, 12:34 PM
#61
I used them exclusively for a while, refused to buy a Trinity product. I was also teased constantly about using them. but I always placed in the races. I soon had most of the the distractors at least try one, but because they didn't know the "Big Jim tips" to tune them they couldn't get them to work like mine. So I am looking forward to the new stock motor.
11-21-2007, 03:11 PM
#62
Me too. I got into this because this is as close to full size racing as I am going to get. Motor tuning is just a part of it like suspension tuning. When you have built and maintained the car, tuned the motors, been to the track to get the suspension hooked, and then run laps to better your driving skills. There is a sense gratification and accomplishment as your results improve that wouldn't be there, for me, if I shortcutted the process. Too old school, I guess.
Last edited by Impulse_racer; 11-21-2007 at 03:31 PM.
11-21-2007, 04:43 PM
#63
Haha, you know it! Stock Truck is like the Limited Late Model of the R/C world. You can show up out of nowhere and drive your way to a decent finish, but to really haul the mail, you gotta earn it!
11-21-2007, 05:41 PM
#64
I would like to see these magical mvp's. (its not that I dont believe you, just couldnt fathom it) I got Jims book as well and tried many a time.....again paper weight in everything Ive seen
11-21-2007, 06:39 PM
#66
11-21-2007, 06:43 PM
#67
Biggest thing is a comm cut, straight outta the box. MVP arms were notorious for coming with their comms WAY out of round. That solves 80% of the problems. Replace the stock brushes with Reedy #767s. Next thing to go is the little plate spring between the brush hoods and heatsinks. Just drags on the brushes. Trinity blue spring on the positive side, do a good job of shimming the armature with Teflon shims, align the brush hoods with a bar & rod (not those P.O.S. "H" things), and when it's all together, lube the bushings and add a couple of comm drops, then break it in submerged in warm tap water for 10 minutes at 3.3v. Pull it out, dry it off with compressed air, REALLY dry it out with motor spray, and re-lube the bushings.
You can also get fancy and narrow the faces of those #767s, but it's a real trick to get it right with a Dremel. But done right, it will throw the RPM-happy powercurve a bit towards the bottom end for truck use.
Biggest thing, MVPs overheat. They just do. 170°F at the side of the can is pretty normal. I think that's what spooks everyone, they think the motor's about to grenade and they gear it to the moon until it'll pull stumps but won't go anywhere.
Little bit of elbow grease and some faith in their durability, and you can make MVPs rocket
You can also get fancy and narrow the faces of those #767s, but it's a real trick to get it right with a Dremel. But done right, it will throw the RPM-happy powercurve a bit towards the bottom end for truck use.
Biggest thing, MVPs overheat. They just do. 170°F at the side of the can is pretty normal. I think that's what spooks everyone, they think the motor's about to grenade and they gear it to the moon until it'll pull stumps but won't go anywhere.
Little bit of elbow grease and some faith in their durability, and you can make MVPs rocket
11-21-2007, 08:32 PM
#68
Biggest thing is a comm cut, straight outta the box. MVP arms were notorious for coming with their comms WAY out of round. That solves 80% of the problems. Replace the stock brushes with Reedy #767s. Next thing to go is the little plate spring between the brush hoods and heatsinks. Just drags on the brushes. Trinity blue spring on the positive side, do a good job of shimming the armature with Teflon shims, align the brush hoods with a bar & rod (not those P.O.S. "H" things), and when it's all together, lube the bushings and add a couple of comm drops, then break it in submerged in warm tap water for 10 minutes at 3.3v. Pull it out, dry it off with compressed air, REALLY dry it out with motor spray, and re-lube the bushings.
You can also get fancy and narrow the faces of those #767s, but it's a real trick to get it right with a Dremel. But done right, it will throw the RPM-happy powercurve a bit towards the bottom end for truck use.
Biggest thing, MVPs overheat. They just do. 170°F at the side of the can is pretty normal. I think that's what spooks everyone, they think the motor's about to grenade and they gear it to the moon until it'll pull stumps but won't go anywhere.
Little bit of elbow grease and some faith in their durability, and you can make MVPs rocket
You can also get fancy and narrow the faces of those #767s, but it's a real trick to get it right with a Dremel. But done right, it will throw the RPM-happy powercurve a bit towards the bottom end for truck use.
Biggest thing, MVPs overheat. They just do. 170°F at the side of the can is pretty normal. I think that's what spooks everyone, they think the motor's about to grenade and they gear it to the moon until it'll pull stumps but won't go anywhere.
Little bit of elbow grease and some faith in their durability, and you can make MVPs rocket
Thats very interesting to me. Me and my brother put in some serious time with those with no results. Gearing might have been the problem to. We didnt want them over 135 degrees. Thanks for breaking that down
11-22-2007, 09:33 AM
#70
I think one thing that happens is that everyone is so used to EPIC based motors, where the magnets will DIE on you if you overheat the motor... The Yokomo/Reedy motors are made by Sagami (or however you spell it), and they have the best magnets in the business. Starting back with the Rage, and on through to the present, those magnets come back time after time, even when "overheated"... The Orion CORE (also a Sagami motor) is almost identical to the MVP in terms of the magnets and armature, and they also need some special attention, but will work well -- they were my favorite stock offroad Truck motor...
Last edited by tfrahm; 02-19-2008 at 12:24 PM.
02-19-2008, 05:06 AM
#72
02-19-2008, 08:28 AM
#73
02-19-2008, 10:05 AM
#74
Good to hear they're on the way anyhow. I'll have all summer to tinker
before I forget, does this news apply to the 19T Challenger as well? I had one of those planned for a TC dirt late model I'm working on.
