SoCalGuy

Thanks Stitchy!
I guess I should have clicked that "Racers Corner" link
And would that be 64 pitch?
SoCal

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Nice Track! I love the banked turns and elevation changes. Only one turn marshall? He must be a really fast runner.

Where are you located?

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

ha np...some of them are 48p too, so look at the descriptions carefully.

SoCalGuy

My question was vague. Are the stock gears on the TB-03 64 pitch? If I only change the pinion, I want to make sure it matches up with the stock spur.
Thanks again,
SoCal

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

As far as I know, they aren't. So you should get new pinions and spurs.

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

That track is in Honolulu, Hawaii. Nice huh!

http://www.boxcarracing.org/RC_Racin...tml#RCraceinfo

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Whats up Marc Nice ride! Only thing you could add would be the carbon front bumper support. Is that a extra large body clip or a paper clip? For your transponder? Was trying to figure out what that was haha.

I call the LRP motors, "the 200F+ motor" Gear them till they're 200+ and they are pretty fast. A guy I race with gets his to 240 regularly...tough motor!

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Stock its a .4 metric pitch which is very close to 64 pitch. In a pinch you can run a 64 pitch pinion with the .4 spur but the mesh is a little off.

As stitchy said, best thing would to be buy a new spur and pinions from speedtech. Your car will also be slightly faster by buying from speedtech. Just In case you need the address again http://speedtechrc.com

SoCalGuy

Thanks Timmie
So it makes sense then to match the pinion to the spur and purchase both at the same time. The next obvious question is which pitch is better, if any? 64, 48, 32, ...??? I'm starting to think I just might have too much time on my hands
SoCal

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

64P for fine ratio adjustments. 6.11..to 6.17.. etc.
48P for durability, easier gear mesh setting. etc.

SoCalGuy

Hi all,
Another boring day at the office!
To date I have only been running my car outside my work with a few fellow employees on the asphalt street. For some reason after half a dozen or so runs, the rear diff seems to loosen up and feel "gritty" when it is turned. Is dirt somehow making its way into the diff housing? Is this a common problem on the TB-03? I would hate to think I need to tear it down and clean it out every week or so
Any thoughts would really be appreciated.
SoCal

phisher

iTrader: (14)

I have a TB-04 with ball diffs on the front and rear. After a day at the track both feel as described. To cure this I simple pop them both out, take them apart, re-lube them and put them both back in. Sometimes loosening them then re-tightening them works. This doesn't take that much time but I am racing every weekend. I would suggest to only worry about it if 1) it gets really bad and hampers performance or 2) your racing competitively.

SoCalGuy

I hope everyone is having a great weekend!
Yet another rookie question regarding shock assembly. What position should the shaft be in (extended, pressed in, or somewhere in between) when the bladder is put in place and the end cap is screwed down.
SoCal

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Hi there SoCalGuy,

I never really had issues with dirt getting into the diff case of a TB03, but its not entirely impossible depending on how dusty the street you are driving your car on is. I'm thinking the gritty feel you are getting is actually coming from the thrust bearing assembly which is somewhat exposed in the diff half. A easy solution to this would be to rebuild your diff. Then before you install it into your car again, seal off the thrust bearing.

There are a few ways to do this. Just to make sure you are following what I'm saying to do, you will be sealing the side of the diff assembly that has the thrust bearing and diff adjustment bolt. You can push in one of the red rebound foams from the shocks in that end of the diff to help keep the dirt out. You can cut a ear plug (may take a few cuts to get it to fit just right) and push it in. And the last thing I have done is get the right size o-ring.(sorry don't remember the mm size) The o-ring should fit between the inner diff half bore, and the diff adjustment bolt head coming up through the o-ring. This will allow you to adjust tension of your diff without having to remove a piece of foam.

You can basically use anything you like. But the end result you are trying to achieve is, seal the thrust bearing from dirt, have something that is easily removed when you need to work on the diff, and something that won't come flying out.

I'm not sure if you are running the factory plastic diff or the hop up aluminum diff. You mentioned that you felt the differential had loosed up on you. This is a characteristic of the factory diff unfortunately. Every time you tighten the diff, the plastic nylon lock nut holder, and the diff half itself weakens. Also driving the car heats the plastic up during runs that also leads to needing to re-adjust the diff to compensate. The diff does not retain its tension because of this. You can just keep adjusting the tension to compensate, but that gets old fast.

Best solution is the aluminum diff assembly. When built correctly, you should be able to go a really long time without rebuilds....even if you run the car often. To build a almost bullet proof diff you will need...

Aluminum diff joint set - Tamiya #54056
Ceramic diff balls - 3mm in dia.
Ceramic thrust bearing assembly

All these items are available at speedtech under this link http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=716 If you can't locate the ceramic stuff look under racers corner.

With these parts, sanding your diff rings so they are flat, Associated stealth lube and black grease, and sealing off your thrust bearing, you will have a solid differential that will give you less headaches and more performance.

I was having a pretty good weekend until i realized tomorrow is Monday

What you are referring to is shock rebound settings. A lot of that is left up to personal preference. And is one of the things that makes this hobby so involving...is trying different things out Some people prefer no rebound...or a "dead shock." You would be doing this by building the shock with the shaft all the way in. Building the shock with the shaft halfway in would be building to 50% rebound. And a shock shaft fully extended would be 100% rebound. A general way of looking at when you would want to use different rebound is on what kind of a surface you will driving on. No rebound will usually be used on a smooth, higher traction surface. Full rebound would be used in a bumpier track, 50% rebound splits the middle. But it's still driver preference. It gets even more involved with weight transfer, sudden changes in direction, etc etc. So I will stop there haha. Hope I've explained this well enough for you

SoCalGuy

Timmie,

Thank you so much for taking the time for such an informative post Little tips and tricks from someone with your experience really helps to make this hobby more enjoyable for us new guys. From your recommendations, I have put together an order from speedtech. I already had the upgraded aluminum diff assembly, so I'll be getting the ceramic diff balls and thrust assembly. I will also be picking up some of the Associated stealth lube and black grease just for good measure Assuming the stealth lube is for the diff balls, and the black grease is for the thrust bearing, what would you suggest I use to lube the diff ring and pinion gears?

FWIW, here is my current setup:
53993 Aluminum Rocker Arm Set
53999 Rocket Nut
54125 TB03 Direct Coupling
42102 TRF Special Damper Set
54052 Aluminum Propeller Shaft
54053 Aluminum Propeller Joint
54094 Aluminum Spur Gear Mount
53500 Universal Assembly Shaft Cross Joint
54076 Wheel Axles
54077 Aluminum 44mm Swing Shafts
54054 Aluminum Motor Adapter
54150 Aluminum Motor Mount
54056 Aluminum Diff Joints
51000 Servo Saver
54095 Aluminum Racing Steering Set
54097 Carbon Steering Link
54121 Aluminum Servo Saver Horn
Futaba BLS551 Servo
Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro w/ 5700kV brushless motor
Spektrum DX3R Radio with SR3520 Receiver

Can you think of anything I might be missing?

I know. pretty much overkill for a parking lot basher, but I always tend to go overboard whenever I start a new hobby (you should see my photography equipment I haven't touched in 6 months ).

Again, thank you and everyone for your time!
SoCal