18Likes"How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch"
03-18-2012, 02:45 PM
#241
Love the guide thanks 
Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.
Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.
I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.
I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....
Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.
I think if you run a mod motor or heavy battery pack (or both) and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions
other wise overall its a awesome guide
Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.
Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.
I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.
I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....
Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.
I think if you run a mod motor or heavy battery pack (or both) and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions
other wise overall its a awesome guide
Last edited by LOSI123; 05-24-2012 at 08:10 PM.
03-26-2012, 06:56 AM
#243
Love the guide thanks
Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.
Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.
I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.
I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....
Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.
I think if you run a mod motor & big battery pack and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions
other wise overall its a awesome guide
Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.
Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.
I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.
I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....
Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.
I think if you run a mod motor & big battery pack and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions
other wise overall its a awesome guide
04-11-2012, 11:29 AM
#244
since watching these videos, i havent had A SINGLE PROBLEM with ball diffs when usually i was replacing them everyother week, i have had this one in for 3 months and still feels smooth and works amazing!!
04-11-2012, 09:44 PM
#245
Tech Rookie
whats the benefit of doing this?
04-13-2012, 10:27 AM
#246
more consistent and predictable performance of your car
05-23-2012, 02:49 PM
#247
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Sorry for the long wait guys, been busy finishing up high-school and am hopefuly starting an apprenticeship as soon as I am done with that...Way too busy
Thank you for the feedback...Sorry it didn't work out for you...I'll look at adding a warning or perhaps re-writing that portion of the guide...Again thank you for the feedback...
Extremely sorry for your experience...Like I said above i'll look at changing that portion of the guide, or adding a section specifically for the SC10...Again sorry...
Thanks for the feedback...
As jmke pointed out the car will be much more predictable in cornering and acceleration...It will also feel smoother and put less wear on the transmission...
Love the guide thanks
Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.
Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.
I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.
I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....
Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.
I think if you run a mod motor & big battery pack and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions
other wise overall its a awesome guide
Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.
Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.
I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.
I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....
Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.
I think if you run a mod motor & big battery pack and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions
other wise overall its a awesome guide
You may be onto something their. I just put a fresh diff in my SC10 for this past weekend. It feels like gravel now. The first one I put in there was smooth as butter for a long time.
since watching these videos, i havent had A SINGLE PROBLEM with ball diffs when usually i was replacing them everyother week, i have had this one in for 3 months and still feels smooth and works amazing!!
whats the benefit of doing this?
05-23-2012, 03:00 PM
#248
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Warning added in the "Setting the Slipper Clutch" portion of the guide...
Additional info regarding version 1 and version 2 slipper assembly added...
Thanks for the feedback guys, especially for pointing out the problems in the guide...
Again I apologize for the incorrect info...
Racer53
Additional info regarding version 1 and version 2 slipper assembly added...
Thanks for the feedback guys, especially for pointing out the problems in the guide...
Again I apologize for the incorrect info...
Racer53
06-25-2012, 11:45 PM
#249
Tech Regular
The video guide is great. Thanks for your work to get this info out to us all. It is very much appreciated.
06-27-2012, 03:20 PM
#250
great video! i am a noob to ball diffs, and i just bought the TLR tuning kit for my losi xxxsct. i just finished assembling the ball diff, and i have a few questions.
first off, The diff is brand new, do you really need to sand down the rings? i just bought the kit on mon. and assembled it today. is it worth my time to disassemble it and sand the rings?
second, my kit came with these copper/brass rings as well as the regular rings. i assembled the diff via the kit instructions, and i have watched a vid of a guy build it w/o the copper rings (squirrel). do they need to be there? are they supposed to be installed or are they like shims to be installed after it wears in?
i have not installed the diff yet, and i need to know the answer to these questions before friday please. i want to install it & break it it in before that afternoon!
please help!
first off, The diff is brand new, do you really need to sand down the rings? i just bought the kit on mon. and assembled it today. is it worth my time to disassemble it and sand the rings?
second, my kit came with these copper/brass rings as well as the regular rings. i assembled the diff via the kit instructions, and i have watched a vid of a guy build it w/o the copper rings (squirrel). do they need to be there? are they supposed to be installed or are they like shims to be installed after it wears in?
i have not installed the diff yet, and i need to know the answer to these questions before friday please. i want to install it & break it it in before that afternoon!
please help!
06-27-2012, 04:15 PM
#251
Honestly I have found the diff not that hard to disassemble. I'd go back and sand the rings, probably makes a difference in the long run.
Also, those copper rings might be to 'shim the diff' so you can remove back and forth play in the transmission case. But I really don't know? Sorry, I personally have only set up Team Associated ball diffs. :P
Another thing to the OP'er: I found the way you set up your slipper clutch has never worked for my SC10 and led me to strip many idler gears. I set it up to around 3 to 3-1/2 full turns and go from there whether it is too loose or too tight. I couldn't even get my wheels to pop up very high and even then I knew that it was going to be REALLY tight. So yeah, everyone has their own way of setting up their slipper, I guess, and it's what works for you. Another thing is a good diff set makes a WORLD of difference comparing to a stock one.
Also, those copper rings might be to 'shim the diff' so you can remove back and forth play in the transmission case. But I really don't know? Sorry, I personally have only set up Team Associated ball diffs. :P
Another thing to the OP'er: I found the way you set up your slipper clutch has never worked for my SC10 and led me to strip many idler gears. I set it up to around 3 to 3-1/2 full turns and go from there whether it is too loose or too tight. I couldn't even get my wheels to pop up very high and even then I knew that it was going to be REALLY tight. So yeah, everyone has their own way of setting up their slipper, I guess, and it's what works for you. Another thing is a good diff set makes a WORLD of difference comparing to a stock one.
07-02-2012, 09:57 AM
#252
Awesome video and write up! I built the diff for my Blitz ESE this weekend following these instructions and it's working beautifully. Thanks!
07-19-2012, 08:18 PM
#253
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Used this tonight to set up my new-to-me B4.1. The diff felt like it had rocks in it when I first got it, but after rebuilding with new balls and plates and breaking it in, it's like every one else says, butter.
One thing I'd like to point out. When setting the slipper and testing for height, be careful because the slipper hubs get pretty hot, even with short bursts.
One thing I'd like to point out. When setting the slipper and testing for height, be careful because the slipper hubs get pretty hot, even with short bursts.
07-31-2012, 02:30 PM
#254
Hey guys has anyone used automotive bearing grease in stead of AE black grease? I have some laying around and it seems like it would be perfect for the job.