pucho

Many of the guys are using them for the BLING factor but I have been braking a few and Im considering buying aluminum one I wish you could find them in a black color Im not too crazy about all the Purple.

csilve

Well I wanted to finish building the shocks on the Pro-4 today and guess what, the treads on the inside of each shock cap are not all there. I have 2 shocks that I cannot tighten the caps on fully and they leak because there is no force against the plastic mounting collar to the bladder seal. I am starting to wish that I had bought the Tamiya Evo-4 instead.

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

What are you talking about...
if this was a known problem then everyone would be complaining.

I think there are possibly two problems..
#1 You assembled the shock incorrectly
#2 There is a defect (like one in a million type thing) with your part

HPI shock that is included in the pro 4 kit is one of the Smoothest and queitest and nicest shock i've ever used...

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

Ouch... that sucks

I would try slotting the stud and then screwing it out...
It will put a little groove on the knuckle, but it's better then no knuckle

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

I think I know what you mean. When you screw the cap it is not tight against the lip on the body? See the arrow. Mine is not either.
You will get some oil come out the vent hole on cap if you start with the much (I always start with to much and let it bleed out). After that, just tighten the cap, work the shock shaft up and down, wipe off the excess oil (I like to use a paper towel with alchol on it to get the oil off). There should be not leakage then.

Do you mean part A787 has no threads?

take care
john

DOMOisCOOL

Basically for the bling factor. I haven't broken one knuckle since I got the Pro 4.

Regarding my question about receiving the wrong Jet Knuckles (PRO 3 ones), I test fitted the knuckle and it fit pretty good. But the bearing size is a tad larger than the Pro 4 one. (5x11x4 vs. 5x10x4). Will I notice any difference? I suppose this is an advantage because or the larger bearing diameter?

Skill

It's not the first time that I've heard of HPI shock tops not being threaded deeply enough, send them back and get them replaced, it's obviously just a bad batch or something, don't let this put you off the Pro 4, it's a brilliant car!!

I have had multiple steering knuckle breakages so that's why I decided to get the alloy ones...although they do look good too.

Super Steve, yea that's what I think I'm gonna end up doing...either that or trying to drill it out but I don't really fancy that idea...

Skill

It might be that the Pro 3 ones have different geometry, so the car may handle slightly different, the larger bearing size will make the car a bit free'er and give a longer bearing life, but will be slightly heavier.

csilve

The shocks are built correctly but when I tighten the collars (part #A787) they stop and the plastic peice is not clamped down and it will still move (turn), then when the shocks are compressed they leak (obviously). Looking at the amount of threads in part #A787 there does not seem to be the same amount of threads as the other collars.
Are the shock collars from the Pro-2 and Pro-3 the same I wonder?
What do you guys do to make the stabalizer ball cups on the lower arms move free. Mine are tight causing them to bind-up the suspension. I was going to try sanding them slightly.

Ronald B

question to Eirik Andreassen

Eirik i saw you use the spool with rubber tires on asphalt ,did you try it also with rubber tires on carpet ?

steve252

i cant order from the us or hk as i have not got my own credit card as i am not old enough yet (only 16). i can only order parts buy cheque in the uk as thats the only way i can pay for parts.

do you know any shops in the uk which sell these parts?

thanks in advance
steven

DOMOisCOOL

Some new pics of my Pro 4. Enjoy!

csilve

I was noticing in some of the pics on the HPI site I've seen that some Pro-4's have a centre brace mounted between the lower chassis and the upper plate. It says nothing in the instructions about installing it and in most racer pics I've seen it is not installed. Is there a reason and or does this part affect anything?

pucho

It'a a stiffner, in most cases you wont need them. You many need them for carpet racing where a stiffer chassis is desired, However remember that this is an other point where your chassis may hold a tweek.

VenomWorldOrder

JUST A QUICK TUNNING TIP THAT I WAS TOLD AT THE TRACK TODAY, VERY USEFUL.

i was told by one of the more experience racers today the following;

PROBLEM;
with my new PRP chassis the car's rear end stuck too much, leaving the front to understeer entering corners. the car exited well but did not rotate enough around the corner or during mid corner. I HAD TO SLOW DOWN TO MUCH TO GET THE DESIRED ROTATION THROUGH A CORNER.

REMEDY;
i was told to place spacers under the camber links on the chassis side of the link. ie make the links more horizontal. i was currently running no spacers on the ballcups closest to the chassis.
i placed 3 washers at the rear (equaling 2.5mm lift) this instantly made the car rotate around the corners much better and eliminated almost all understeer.

PRP CHASSIS SO FAR?
i found the chassis to work fine on a dusty track. infact it felt better than the stock HPI setup. the car was alot more responsive to initial steering input and all signs of exit understeer have disapeared. i have found though that it was neccessary for me to place the stock swaybar at the rear (black). i was also running the short wheel base.