Theibault

Having a blast giving my Tamiyas a little love and the video treatment.

yanspe76

Thanks Theibault ! Gave me the motivation to start the week :-)

Nice Vid with the slow mo (can analyse the front rebound after big jump... close to horizontal layout of the front suspension?)

But we buy Avante because it's just looks super cool? Super cool when it came out 30 years ago... And still super cool now!

It's hard to not be squirelly at that kind of loose track. A cheap gyro from RC Mart (eg SkyRC) might do the trick...

Theibault

Do it! The build is fantastic on this car. Enjoy yours!

Knockoffracer

iTrader: (9)

Awesome video as usual. I've just finished one of these aside from the body. Currently running the kit motor and ESC. Question... just how tight is the screw that holds the center diff supposed to be? When I give her full throttle from a standstill, she has to spool up like a turbo. I've had the rear out a few times, and have done it according to the kit manual, so I'm a little lost.

Planning on a 10.5 for it once I get it sorted. My friends are planning on running some vintage stuff on an indoor carpet track soon, so I figured I'd take the Avante 2011 out of its hiding spot for the past 4 years and build it. Especially since I've ordered a BS with the LHS!

Sir 51D3WAYS

Your center diff is too loose.
Ahhh... This screw is a pain in the ass... If it's too loose, It will behave as you describe. It's also entirely possible to overtighten the screw and snap it! (been there, done that, got the t-shirt)
In your case I suggest tightening it EXTREMELY CAREFULLY, using the long end of an allen key on the screw head to limit the torque. Try maybe 1/4 turn more, at most 1/2 a turn. See if it still slips. From this point onwards, tighten 1/8 or 1/16 turn until it stops slipping.
Try to ''feel'' the screw and Belleville washers compressing. You don't want to completely flatten the washers. Because after that you'll snap the screw.
Then unscrew completely, apply a decent amount of threadlock, then re-install while trying to achieve the same tightness as before.

10.5 turn is about the max the center diff can handle. Suggest you tone it down slightly

Knockoffracer

iTrader: (9)

Thank you so much for confirming this. I'm terrified to over tighten that screw, even though the parts are not that difficult to obtain. Even went through the manual for my Vajra to see if it was different, most definitely is.. lol.

I've wanted this car since the early 90s.. so I've taken great care with its assembly. I've tightened it 1/4 at a time and it is definitely getting better. Now I just need to figure out how to get paint into the high sides of the wing, I really don't want to botch this bad boy up. Concerning the 10.5, very good friend of mine is a total Tamiya Nut. He suggested the 10.5 and even said leave the punch level at 1, and stick to a spec type system.

Sir 51D3WAYS

Nice^. I haven't got round to painting my shell for a year now.... My suggestion for the wing is to use lots of thin coats, keeping the nozzle very close to the wing. Let it dry between each coat. You will require multiple passes for the paint to truly reach the insides.

This will require saint-like levels of patience.

Knockoffracer

iTrader: (9)

Saint-like levels of patience?... Maybe I'll just spray the "wrong side" of the wing.... Lol!

Sir 51D3WAYS

It'll look ugly and you will lose the smooth high gloss effect.

Knockoffracer

iTrader: (9)

I think I got it. Lol it's all done. Just waiting for the HW 10.5 Justock system. It really is a piece of rolling art.

zackk

The blue one is dooope

Getagrip

Pretty cool.

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

Sir 51D3WAYS

Here's mine

Driver figure


The whole thing put together.

Jdunfee424

iTrader: (8)