[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

Mines finished being built, Its the WORST kit I have ever put together, Also there is a few mistakes in the manual concerning which Turn-buckles to use where.

However, Its together, And all ready to go, Will head down to the track tommorow.

Thoughts so far...

- Very free rolling car, I did however clean all bearings, Then oil, Let sit, Then oil again before placing in the car.

- The Diffs, I don't like. I don't like the plastic outdrives, And I don't like the fact I have to CA the diff plates.

- Both uni's are 46.. Why not have them both the same colour ?

- Alot of play in the steering.

What I feel needs to be upgraded/ changed..

- Steering parts, To alloy & bearings, Basically to remove any slop, It is fairly free stock with the bushings.

- Turn Buckles, They feel a little soft.

- I also need to somehow router the ridges for the Battery packs as I'm running Lipo and can't get the pack to sit low enough.


The car overall, I am so far happy with, I will let you all know how it performs tommorow at the track.

Ciao.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

IIRC, since i had friend build/race mine. wasnt there an issue with the turnbuckles being the wrong size and many folks havin to chop down a couple of them to make the correct lengths?

R

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

I didn't chop any, I just swapped around until I had the car setup how I wanted.


Also, What do you guys use for a spool ??..

Minami

iTrader: (5)

the front universals are made of steel and are stronger than the rear ones.



@ultegrasti

maybe your friend used the worng turnbuckles on the wrong parts of the car? i too didn't have problems with those...

Minami

iTrader: (5)

the front universals are made of steel and are stronger than the rear ones.



@ultegrasti

maybe your friend used the worng turnbuckles on the wrong parts of the car? i too didn't have problems with those...

jeda

iTrader: (2)

hello want to ask about pinion gear. Im using 39pinion to 105 gear for my 23T motor.
I want to use 19t motor, what should I use pinion to 105 gear?
Thanks

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

no we later went thru the whole deal. turned out that i didnt get what the kit manual (1st version manual) said was in the box (well the extra hopup bag that accompanied car). oh well.

what happens when u order from 1st batch

R

jun_1.8T

iTrader: (1)

ok peeps....im in the middle of putting my ifs-r together. just a quick question with installing the swaybars. how tight should the grub screw be that holds the swaybar? should i tighten it so that it will not move side to side but can still move up and down??? kind of confused in the manual. thanks!

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

The idea of the grub-screw is to make the hole inside just the right size for the sway-bar being used. You want the bar to rotate freely, but you don't want it to be able to move/shift fore-aft & up-down. As for side-to-side, the whole plastic holder piece is supposed to keep that from happening.

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

JUN - You want the grub screw tight enough so the sway bar your using doesn't move horizontal.

Basically remove the shocks so your arms are free, Tighten the sway bar until it doesn't move horizontal, See if it works, If not Loosen the grub a tiny bit, Try again, Keep doing so until the swaybar is doing its job.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

Ok on mine I went the Alloy Steering and Rocker Arms as I agree the bushings suck.

Turnbuckles, yes, TOO SOFT! Going titanium on mine soon, the settings are wrong too, I followed the book and had toe out of 4 on one side 2 on the other wtf?

Set up station time fixes that.

I used the alloy outdrives (blue) on the back with no glue, front one way which seems to help.

On the track though it felt quite balanced and very easy to live with, only lacking thing was off power turn in but that I can change. Might add some rear antisquat as well, usually works well for me

jun_1.8T

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the advice....assuming everything is good...when i move one side up and down should the other side do the same thing??? because i just did what you said but it's doing something weired. on the front end...when i move the right arms up and down the left side stays in place. but when i start moving the left side up/down...the right side does the same thing. same thing on the rear end but it's vice versa. i dont know if you guys get what im trying to say. any ways...thanks for the help.

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

What your experiencing is pre-load.

You need to adjust the length of the sway-bar end-links to fix this (that is why they are tiny turnbuckles). You should adjust one side until the arms react the same from left to right. Once you get it set right, you'll notice there is a small dead zone when lifting one arm before the opposite arm starts to lift via the bar. That is fine as long as it's the same amount of dead-zone on BOTH sides. This happens because the opposite arms weight is takes a moment to load the sway-bar (which is technically a spring) lifting up...

Erwin lewi

Dear all TA05 IFS R user..

I need to know , tamiya release front belt for using front one way / center one way?
because I used front one way with smaller front pulley the stock belt becomes loose, not tight, even I already adjust the front pulley on front bulkhead.

Thanks

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

The ifsr has it's own unique centre one way (18t) and with the front one way you use a Tamiya Durga front one way pulley not the one included.