Ofna Cd-3
03-04-2006, 10:48 PM
#916
Oh thats a buggy engine. Awesome. If I get into 8th buggy again, where I go to race I'd just need something like a S7 II or P5. WS7 II..meh...not sure. I'm running 8th onroad now and that's where most of my $$ is going to right now with a tire truer and hudy guages.
03-05-2006, 09:59 AM
#917
Serpent 960
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Oh thats a buggy engine. Awesome. If I get into 8th buggy again, where I go to race I'd just need something like a S7 II or P5. WS7 II..meh...not sure. I'm running 8th onroad now and that's where most of my $$ is going to right now with a tire truer and hudy guages.
btw i ran the cd3 got some rear wheel problem it keeps sliping.. and the carb get struck.. the cantax have a long delay.. than it kicks in to drive can you help me out with fix for the cd3... then i will pop the new engine in ....
look out am get serpent 960 in june...
03-05-2006, 10:51 AM
#918
Hehe, I see a lot of people are getting the 8th onroad bug. 
I set my clutch with the adjuster nut barely showing a thread. Also, clutch gap was about .5mm-1mm. Too much makes the CB slam onto the bearings up front so it will ruin them. Check the movement of your throttle linkage and see if it's smooth. You should be able to have free movement with little resistant.
I set my clutch with the adjuster nut barely showing a thread. Also, clutch gap was about .5mm-1mm. Too much makes the CB slam onto the bearings up front so it will ruin them. Check the movement of your throttle linkage and see if it's smooth. You should be able to have free movement with little resistant.
03-05-2006, 01:51 PM
#919
Thanks lot HarKonnenD
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hehe, I see a lot of people are getting the 8th onroad bug. I set my clutch with the adjuster nut barely showing a thread. Also, clutch gap was about .5mm-1mm. Too much makes the CB slam onto the bearings up front so it will ruin them. Check the movement of your throttle linkage and see if it's smooth. You should be able to have free movement with little resistant.
I set my clutch with the adjuster nut barely showing a thread. Also, clutch gap was about .5mm-1mm. Too much makes the CB slam onto the bearings up front so it will ruin them. Check the movement of your throttle linkage and see if it's smooth. You should be able to have free movement with little resistant.I will try out what you said ... but can you give me some tips on the rear end which silps every time turn the steering wheel left or right .. it seem to what todo donuts all the time ..
03-06-2006, 08:45 AM
#920
The buildup begins
So I'm getting ready to make the switch to the CD3 this year. Probably buy it at the end of the month. In the meantime, I've been collecting all the extra stuff I'd need to build everything right the first time, hopups included.
I just put in an order for some Acer ceramic bearings (may get the lower tier set for the LD3). The graphite shock towers are on order from Hong Kong (although 1 is backordered. May have to do some e-bay searching on that). I'm getting the Spektrum for mt CRX next week. Already have 2 Hitec HSC-6965s on the workbench. Debating when and how to order the aluminum arm holders and steering rack. Few questions, though:
The pro really takes the MTX-3 pack? I'd hate to loose the Mah of a flat pack if I can help it (but I don't want to buy the wrong thing either)
Is the centax setup tool a necessity?
Is the monoblock motor mount worth it?
Is there anything else I should consider picking up for the car hopupwise?
I'm pretty good with spare parts (arms. knuckles, pivot balls, etc) from my LD3 stash. I've got a slew of Take off foams and GQ foams and plan on getting some of the Jaco 2 stage foams, too. I'll probably just hijack my transponder from the LD3 for the time being. I'm sitting pat on getting a motor just yet. Too many choices out there, old and new (mod TZ, that new Orion CRF, the new STS, Ninja, etc) and my NSR12 is still breaking in (I may just send that out to get modded. microcasted pistons are expensive as hell!)
Madbeats
Check that rear diff. That would be the first culprit I'd look at if it's spinning out.
I just put in an order for some Acer ceramic bearings (may get the lower tier set for the LD3). The graphite shock towers are on order from Hong Kong (although 1 is backordered. May have to do some e-bay searching on that). I'm getting the Spektrum for mt CRX next week. Already have 2 Hitec HSC-6965s on the workbench. Debating when and how to order the aluminum arm holders and steering rack. Few questions, though:
The pro really takes the MTX-3 pack? I'd hate to loose the Mah of a flat pack if I can help it (but I don't want to buy the wrong thing either)
Is the centax setup tool a necessity?
Is the monoblock motor mount worth it?
Is there anything else I should consider picking up for the car hopupwise?
I'm pretty good with spare parts (arms. knuckles, pivot balls, etc) from my LD3 stash. I've got a slew of Take off foams and GQ foams and plan on getting some of the Jaco 2 stage foams, too. I'll probably just hijack my transponder from the LD3 for the time being. I'm sitting pat on getting a motor just yet. Too many choices out there, old and new (mod TZ, that new Orion CRF, the new STS, Ninja, etc) and my NSR12 is still breaking in (I may just send that out to get modded. microcasted pistons are expensive as hell!)
Madbeats
Check that rear diff. That would be the first culprit I'd look at if it's spinning out.
03-06-2006, 10:31 AM
#922
Tech Master
I would of got the alloy arm holders way before the towers, unless someone can tell me what great gain the towers would give me . I think ive broken two towers in ?3 years and both times from memory was when I was being stupid with body off and both included a mistake and airtime.
Steering rack is nice but alloy arm holders with alloy sway holders would be one of my 1st selections. mine rack is full alloy (removed the plastic servo saver, replaced with alloy bit I made up and use a tamiya one) I went 1 year without a problem then broke two savers in one meeting at a track with a certian concrete barrier I loved to kiss when coming on the straight too fast..
1. Yes as above post. I've completed a 1 hr enduro with somethig like 200mah left.
2. Tool is not nessary but its great - makes gear changes much easier. Before that I just used multigrips and a leather glove
3. I found the Monoblock makes gear meshing heaps easier but if you take care when you first fit your engine to get it square on the normal mounts there should be no real difference I guess. It does apparanlty sink more heat away from crank case to the chassis.
Re: engines, the D3R is doing me fine
. I think ive broken two towers in ?3 years and both times from memory was when I was being stupid with body off and both included a mistake and airtime.Steering rack is nice but alloy arm holders with alloy sway holders would be one of my 1st selections. mine rack is full alloy (removed the plastic servo saver, replaced with alloy bit I made up and use a tamiya one) I went 1 year without a problem then broke two savers in one meeting at a track with a certian concrete barrier I loved to kiss when coming on the straight too fast..
1. Yes as above post. I've completed a 1 hr enduro with somethig like 200mah left.
2. Tool is not nessary but its great - makes gear changes much easier. Before that I just used multigrips and a leather glove
3. I found the Monoblock makes gear meshing heaps easier but if you take care when you first fit your engine to get it square on the normal mounts there should be no real difference I guess. It does apparanlty sink more heat away from crank case to the chassis.
Re: engines, the D3R is doing me fine
03-06-2006, 10:35 AM
#923
Tech Master
For setting the clutch this is a great source of info:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?s...d=9339&exp=109
You have too much of a gap ATM or spring is too tight.
And if anyone has engine/tune problems:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=2&pid=2241&exp=13
and yes start of with getting that idle you think is correct, corrected
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?s...d=9339&exp=109
You have too much of a gap ATM or spring is too tight.
And if anyone has engine/tune problems:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=2&pid=2241&exp=13
and yes start of with getting that idle you think is correct, corrected
Originally Posted by madbeats
HarKonnenD the buggy ran well but i broke the left chub thats ok....
btw i ran the cd3 got some rear wheel problem it keeps sliping.. and the carb get struck.. the cantax have a long delay.. than it kicks in to drive can you help me out with fix for the cd3... then i will pop the new engine in .... look out am get serpent 960 in june...
btw i ran the cd3 got some rear wheel problem it keeps sliping.. and the carb get struck.. the cantax have a long delay.. than it kicks in to drive can you help me out with fix for the cd3... then i will pop the new engine in ....
look out am get serpent 960 in june...
03-06-2006, 12:36 PM
#924
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
I would of got the alloy arm holders way before the towers, unless someone can tell me what great gain the towers would give me . I think ive broken two towers in ?3 years and both times from memory was when I was being stupid with body off and both included a mistake and airtime.
Steering rack is nice but alloy arm holders with alloy sway holders would be one of my 1st selections. mine rack is full alloy (removed the plastic servo saver, replaced with alloy bit I made up and use a tamiya one) I went 1 year without a problem then broke two savers in one meeting at a track with a certian concrete barrier I loved to kiss when coming on the straight too fast..
1. Yes as above post. I've completed a 1 hr enduro with somethig like 200mah left.
2. Tool is not nessary but its great - makes gear changes much easier. Before that I just used multigrips and a leather glove
3. I found the Monoblock makes gear meshing heaps easier but if you take care when you first fit your engine to get it square on the normal mounts there should be no real difference I guess. It does apparanlty sink more heat away from crank case to the chassis.
Re: engines, the D3R is doing me fine
. I think ive broken two towers in ?3 years and both times from memory was when I was being stupid with body off and both included a mistake and airtime.Steering rack is nice but alloy arm holders with alloy sway holders would be one of my 1st selections. mine rack is full alloy (removed the plastic servo saver, replaced with alloy bit I made up and use a tamiya one) I went 1 year without a problem then broke two savers in one meeting at a track with a certian concrete barrier I loved to kiss when coming on the straight too fast..
1. Yes as above post. I've completed a 1 hr enduro with somethig like 200mah left.
2. Tool is not nessary but its great - makes gear changes much easier. Before that I just used multigrips and a leather glove
3. I found the Monoblock makes gear meshing heaps easier but if you take care when you first fit your engine to get it square on the normal mounts there should be no real difference I guess. It does apparanlty sink more heat away from crank case to the chassis.
Re: engines, the D3R is doing me fine
03-07-2006, 01:46 AM
#925
Hey Mr B bear just a few thoughts...
Shave down a nut and the flange on the manifold so it will fit...(dremel)
Also some dryglide on diff pinions before filling diff cases with oil..
Some chemie weld around the stinger...
I know a guy that used to race with you at the old bull ring....
told me these things to pass onto you....
Shave down a nut and the flange on the manifold so it will fit...(dremel)
Also some dryglide on diff pinions before filling diff cases with oil..
Some chemie weld around the stinger...
I know a guy that used to race with you at the old bull ring....
told me these things to pass onto you....
03-07-2006, 02:50 AM
#926
Originally Posted by trusty
Hey Mr B bear just a few thoughts...
Shave down a nut and the flange on the manifold so it will fit...(dremel)
Also some dryglide on diff pinions before filling diff cases with oil..
Some chemie weld around the stinger...
I know a guy that used to race with you at the old bull ring....
told me these things to pass onto you....
Shave down a nut and the flange on the manifold so it will fit...(dremel)
Also some dryglide on diff pinions before filling diff cases with oil..
Some chemie weld around the stinger...
I know a guy that used to race with you at the old bull ring....
told me these things to pass onto you....
Thank you i will look into it...
Gotta admit i haven't looked at the car in a week it is just sitting on the Kitchen table. Might go an check out some off road action on the weekend
BB
03-10-2006, 10:25 AM
#927
Tech Master
03-11-2006, 08:11 PM
#929
Tech Master
Maybe a bit to do with marketing I guess. The new "Jammin" Brand distances the buggy from the earlier versions - and IMO with good reason. I know its a very old buggy now but a mate had the Ultra MBX and it was not very good at all.
I purchased a Hyper 7 PBS (HoBao) because of what I seen of the Ultra MBX I was not keen on the newer version, the 9.5. (the X1CR was not out). I soon got a X1CR though as I was not happy with the H7 and am very happy with the X1CR
The only problem I have, and its common to all my R/C, is the loose nut behind the wheel.
If HN made an on road electric I'd prolly look at that also I think the mamba max may rip the drive train out of the EVO III. 
I purchased a Hyper 7 PBS (HoBao) because of what I seen of the Ultra MBX I was not keen on the newer version, the 9.5. (the X1CR was not out). I soon got a X1CR though as I was not happy with the H7 and am very happy with the X1CR
The only problem I have, and its common to all my R/C, is the loose nut behind the wheel.
If HN made an on road electric I'd prolly look at that also
I think the mamba max may rip the drive train out of the EVO III.
03-12-2006, 01:55 PM
#930
The funny thing is, they did. Their electric OB-4 was the first real RC I owned (thus why I bought the LD3 and will get the CD3). It was a very nive car, loke a HPI Pro2, which was oit at the same time, but with a bit more adjustability. I'd still have it if it didn't get stolen.