Yokomo F1 YRF
#136
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Hello
I'm writing form Italy.
I just bought this car.
Is it possible to mount a side damping tube instead of the lateral damper?
Because with my exotek F1R I had a better feeling with the damping tube and 300000 grese
Someone said me that the center shock could be better.
Are there some tips to mount it? or can i replace it with a better one?
I'm writing form Italy.
I just bought this car.
Is it possible to mount a side damping tube instead of the lateral damper?
Because with my exotek F1R I had a better feeling with the damping tube and 300000 grese
Someone said me that the center shock could be better.
Are there some tips to mount it? or can i replace it with a better one?
Yes, you can switch out the roll damper for a tube damper setup. Tamiya has a single roll tube you can put on the Yokomo YRF. You can see a picture of it mounted on my chassis. It's three or four posts above this. Click on the picture and you can see it.
#137
Tech Rookie
mi potete aiutare a mettere a punto la mia yrf . adesso e montata di scatola ma non sterza e quando do gas si avvita. premetto che from italy gomme lattice ride r1 grazie mille
#138
Tech Apprentice
Hi Ernesto ,go to Italian forum "automodelli" ,will be more easy for you.
Ciao
pigio
#139
Tech Rookie
#140
Tech Rookie
per edward2003 mi potresti gentilmente aiutare ad assettare la yrf dato che mi sembra che la conosci bene?
#141
Tech Rookie
The Yokomo YRF 001 is already tuned to a high level, as delivered from Yokomo. In my opinion, they have done all the work so we can enjoy the car, which can include modifications if you like, however, nothing is needed.
The only part I upgraded was to ceramic diff balls, a $10-15 (USD.) The kit diff balls may be ok; I run ceramic diff balls in everything.
Also, because I am a newer F1 driver, I chose the optional steering kit [YOKYF-STBC] that puts the servo farther back on the chassis with a bell-crank. I read it makes it easier to drive, but I don't believe team drivers use this.
Other posts, earlier in the thread, made recommendations you might be interested in for changing the diff thrust bearing as well as different front wings. My car is working great, so, no need to try these.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if there are any questions.
Last edited by dctrfrz; 11-13-2014 at 10:36 PM.
#142
Tech Rookie
No lap time comparison to give to you.
Everyone has their opinion; mine is that Yokomo YRF 001 performs at a higher level than the F104v2 Pro.
I could state a list of bullet points, but really, I enjoy the Yokomo. I own both cars, and don't drive the F104v2 Pro anymore.
My Yokomo YRF 001N was the first place winner last weekend, racing with F103, F104v2 Pro, and Speed Passion cars.
Everyone has their opinion; mine is that Yokomo YRF 001 performs at a higher level than the F104v2 Pro.
I could state a list of bullet points, but really, I enjoy the Yokomo. I own both cars, and don't drive the F104v2 Pro anymore.
My Yokomo YRF 001N was the first place winner last weekend, racing with F103, F104v2 Pro, and Speed Passion cars.
Last edited by dctrfrz; 11-17-2014 at 08:04 PM.
#144
Go back to the start of the thread and read from there. Beth and several others post tips and setup sheets.
As for the front wings, kyosho, tamiya f104 will fit. Some minor shaving might be needed.
As for the front wings, kyosho, tamiya f104 will fit. Some minor shaving might be needed.
#145
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Finally got this F1 hooked up! The biggest difference was the centre shock and added front weight. Used a smaller centre shock (Kyosho) with an Associated gold spring, speed Passion 40 wt oil. The side spring is Associated blue, and damper tube oil is 20000 Kyosho. Camber -1.5, toe out 1~2 degrees. I'm not sure, I do it by eye. Ride height is 3.8 rear, pod 3.6, and 3.6 front. Pod drop is 1.2 mm.
#146
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
yep mine was going really well at our Nationals on the weekend , was a little unlucky not to take the win, but was able to bounce back to second, (5th in 13.5 stock as well)
I have moved away from the bell crank steering to get some weight upfront, and I can move the battery to mid helps a little as well if the grip is up.
I have moved away from the bell crank steering to get some weight upfront, and I can move the battery to mid helps a little as well if the grip is up.
#147
Tech Rookie
Lap times
Attached are most recent lap times, finished first again with the YRF, two in a row
This is not the best comparison because the F104v2 motor is Tamiya 540-J Silvercan and the other cars have 21.5 brushless.
Had fun again, looking forward to next race.
This is not the best comparison because the F104v2 motor is Tamiya 540-J Silvercan and the other cars have 21.5 brushless.
Had fun again, looking forward to next race.
#148
Tech Rookie
Finally got this F1 hooked up! The biggest difference was the centre shock and added front weight. Used a smaller centre shock (Kyosho) with an Associated gold spring, speed Passion 40 wt oil. The side spring is Associated blue, and damper tube oil is 20000 Kyosho. Camber -1.5, toe out 1~2 degrees. I'm not sure, I do it by eye. Ride height is 3.8 rear, pod 3.6, and 3.6 front. Pod drop is 1.2 mm.
-0.5 front camber. Started at -1.5 camber but had push, gradually reduced down to -0.5 and got lots more mid corner and exit steering, tire wear is even at this setting. This goes against popular opinion that more negative camber gives more steering.
You run a lot of front toe, your car must have a lot of turn in entering the corner. When I ran like that, the front grabbed and either scrubbed speed, or threw the rear out into a slight skid and made the car lose speed.
My ride height is around 5mm for a bumpy track, with a little pod droop.
Last edited by dctrfrz; 11-27-2014 at 09:35 PM.
#149
Tech Rookie
yep mine was going really well at our Nationals on the weekend , was a little unlucky not to take the win, but was able to bounce back to second, (5th in 13.5 stock as well)
I have moved away from the bell crank steering to get some weight upfront, and I can move the battery to mid helps a little as well if the grip is up.
I have moved away from the bell crank steering to get some weight upfront, and I can move the battery to mid helps a little as well if the grip is up.
Have you tried the optional bolt down rear side links? Someone said they provide more more steering for more experienced driver. They only have ball connectors/rotation on one end.
I'm still running your tire suggestion, Pit PS-0573 medium fronts with Pit PS-0572 hard rears, and they are fantastic. Winter is approaching though, and I want to be prepared. Do you suggest an optional tire for colder weather? Track temps will be measured in a few weeks. Outdoor asphalt parking lot, prepped, air temps are in the 50-68F, 10-20C, overcast and partly sunny.
#150
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Nice comeback, cool trophies!
Have you tried the optional bolt down rear side links? Someone said they provide more more steering for more experienced driver. They only have ball connectors/rotation on one end.
I'm still running your tire suggestion, Pit PS-0573 medium fronts with Pit PS-0572 hard rears, and they are fantastic. Winter is approaching though, and I want to be prepared. Do you suggest an optional tire for colder weather? Track temps will be measured in a few weeks. Outdoor asphalt parking lot, prepped, air temps are in the 50-68F, 10-20C, overcast and partly sunny.
Have you tried the optional bolt down rear side links? Someone said they provide more more steering for more experienced driver. They only have ball connectors/rotation on one end.
I'm still running your tire suggestion, Pit PS-0573 medium fronts with Pit PS-0572 hard rears, and they are fantastic. Winter is approaching though, and I want to be prepared. Do you suggest an optional tire for colder weather? Track temps will be measured in a few weeks. Outdoor asphalt parking lot, prepped, air temps are in the 50-68F, 10-20C, overcast and partly sunny.
you could try the soft fronts PS-0571 and soft rears PS-0575 which is what I tend to use in winter over here