Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree139Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-19-2014, 04:07 PM
  #12196  
Tech Elite
 
vito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: roseburg or
Posts: 3,936
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Is it fast ?
I don't know I get it back Monday and track test
vito is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 04:07 PM
  #12197  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (117)
 
wstuart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,083
Trader Rating: 117 (98%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
try the brass front suspension holder. it should add weight where you want it. are you using the RM arms and hubs shimmed forward?
Really? I would think the front end should be as light as possible. I was gonna add weight under the battery pad - thinking I would want to keep the weight as centralized as possible to help the car rotate quicker. I'll try it though.

I have b5 front arms and tower installed and I like them

I have the b5 rear arms but haven't tried them yet. Do I also need the b5 rear hubs or are mine ok?

I think on my next testing day I'll start by trying the b5 rear arms, then I'll try the green springs. If I don't like the green spring I'll go back to white and start adding weight to different places
wstuart is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 04:21 PM
  #12198  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
 
rcgod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Blackfoot Idaho.
Posts: 3,466
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wstuart
So I got my car down to 1470 grams, the car jumps and lands better but I kind of don't like how it handles at this weight - not as much corner speed and it seems like I'm sliding at the apex. Also worse acceleration which surprised me. I think I'm not getting enough bite out of my rear tires.

What should I do?

If I stay light I'm thinking of

Switching from white to green springs
Lighter oil (32,30 down to 30 27)
Using roll center to get the car to roll more
Changing ride height - don't know if I should go up or down.

Or I might just add weight in the battery compartment.

Any advice?
You spent the time and $ to drop about 15% of the weight from the car so why add it back before you try making it work at the lighter weight? You're going to have less weight transfer because most or all of the weight was taken off above the chassis. If it were me I would go to green springs and lighter oil. Fine tune the camber links from there.
rcgod is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 05:40 PM
  #12199  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Michael@USPN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NORCAL Baby!
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rcgod
You spent the time and $ to drop about 15% of the weight from the car so why add it back before you try making it work at the lighter weight? You're going to have less weight transfer because most or all of the weight was taken off above the chassis. If it were me I would go to green springs and lighter oil. Fine tune the camber links from there.
Exactly right. In onroad we make our stock class cars as light as possible too. U need to adjust ur suspension now since its lighter. Id say lighter oil /springs n adjust slipper per track conditions. Looser track equals looser slipper. High traction equals tighter slipper. Good luck and keep us posted!
Michael@USPN is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 05:44 PM
  #12200  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,388
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wstuart
Really? I would think the front end should be as light as possible. I was gonna add weight under the battery pad - thinking I would want to keep the weight as centralized as possible to help the car rotate quicker. I'll try it though.

I have b5 front arms and tower installed and I like them

I have the b5 rear arms but haven't tried them yet. Do I also need the b5 rear hubs or are mine ok?

I think on my next testing day I'll start by trying the b5 rear arms, then I'll try the green springs. If I don't like the green spring I'll go back to white and start adding weight to different places
sorry not the front bulkhead of pin brace, the front brass REAR suspension holder. This would add the weight over the rear axles more so. green springs are a good choice. the hubs are the same, yours are fine. the arms should drop right in.
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 05:49 PM
  #12201  
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
 
Shark413's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,554
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
You want the reamer to be slightly bigger than the stud also you can't measure the ID of the ball cup. .2 diff is so small is perfect. Just ordered my set already have a new set of cups
Roger that, they are so smooth now. Running the stock binding cups I almost didn't need the shocks., lol.
Shark413 is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 06:07 PM
  #12202  
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
 
Shark413's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,554
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hcopp
Im with Wildcat on this one (even being totally new to this game) - I busted a turnbuckle and bought shorted ti rods and new cups and there is no way I pushed them through too hard and they bind like hell. While I don't think it affects the suspension in any way they definitely are sticky. This was on a new kit as well as replacement cups fresh off the shelves. They are too tight, and I ordered a reamer to see how that goes.
Hcopp, it does matter. A binding cup, especially as bad as mine were binding, adds resistance and acts like thicker oil or a heavier spring, except it very inconsistent. I had a cup go bad on my Tekno sct410 and I thought my shock shaft was bent because the handling suddenly got so bad. I removed the shock and I have habit of lifting and dropping the arms, which should fall free. This time they didn't so I knew right away I had a bend hinge pin or a bad cup. Turned out the cup was frozen on the ball stud because of some dirt. And it is even more important on the B5m because it is mush lighter than a SC truck.
Shark413 is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 09:04 PM
  #12203  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (117)
 
wstuart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,083
Trader Rating: 117 (98%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
sorry not the front bulkhead of pin brace, the front brass REAR suspension holder. This would add the weight over the rear axles more so. green springs are a good choice. the hubs are the same, yours are fine. the arms should drop right in.
Originally Posted by Michael@USPN
Exactly right. In onroad we make our stock class cars as light as possible too. U need to adjust ur suspension now since its lighter. Id say lighter oil /springs n adjust slipper per track conditions. Looser track equals looser slipper. High traction equals tighter slipper. Good luck and keep us posted!
Originally Posted by rcgod
You spent the time and $ to drop about 15% of the weight from the car so why add it back before you try making it work at the lighter weight? You're going to have less weight transfer because most or all of the weight was taken off above the chassis. If it were me I would go to green springs and lighter oil. Fine tune the camber links from there.

Thanks guys. I agree. Lighter should always be faster. I race stock onroad also and have played this lightweight game before and I've found that light cars can work, but it's a must that the suspension work correctly - no binding. Light cars are especially sensitive to binding shocks/ball cups/ hinge pins.

I'll see what I can do with the shocks and roll centers and report back next week.
wstuart is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 03:31 AM
  #12204  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (137)
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,464
Trader Rating: 137 (98%+)
Default

is there a motor fan that will work for this car.
ashxxx is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 08:42 AM
  #12205  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 590
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Need 1500 Gram Set Up Suggestions

Dropping approximately 60 grams (new battery) and would like to hear from those who are already running 1500 gram set ups. Looking for shock oil, springs, ride height, etc info.
Micah123 is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 10:03 AM
  #12206  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
 
crazy nick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Emmaus , PA
Posts: 540
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

crazy nick is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 02:01 PM
  #12207  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
racer_guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 248
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

must be almost ready...finnisher for the b5m.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-download.jpg  
racer_guy is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 02:08 PM
  #12208  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
mxracer458's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: so cal
Posts: 3,983
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

so i finally got to run my mm last night,it was also my first time running a mid motor card period,my car is bone stock, i run stock also. it was set up box setup and it was ok just a little loose for the 1st couple packs,so i switched my arms over the rm front and rear arms. Ran it again and it helped out a lot but still wasn't satisfied on how the car was running,granted i didn't have the typos everyone was using but traction was coming up.My 1st qualifier i ended up 2nd in the heat but 13th overall out of 33 or so buggies,and there was a lot of chassis sponsored guys running stock because there was no mod,i would say the top 7 were chassis sponsored guys. That first round i ran m3 ions and i just couldn't push it like i wanted to. So the next round i went to 3/2 rear inserts and .5 in my rear hubs and ran ss handlebars,My car was much better and i felt i could push it a little harder and ran a 20.073 and the fast sponsored guys were running 19.2s i believe.I felt i had the car in the right direction. So my main was up and i put the soft ions back on thinking i could push it a little more with this tires since i was 6th in the b,boy my car was stuck like velcro and it was hard to drive,i think i was running 5th and i was getting plowed by one car corner after corner (didn't think he knew how to use brakes) and finally he spun me into a pipe and i ended up 7th in the b. Not were i wanted to finish but the class had some heavy hitter and for someone with no expectations other then trying to make the car good i felt like it was a good night. So i can't wait to get some more wheels time on the car and see what else i can do with it,not to shabby for a bone stock heavy car
mxracer458 is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 03:31 PM
  #12209  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: west side, Mi.
Posts: 701
Trader Rating: 32 (97%+)
Default

I want to get some info on if im losing rear traction in my mod 2wd buggy using aluminum rear arm mounts vs plastic
Apl Hed is offline  
Old 07-20-2014, 03:49 PM
  #12210  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Cridd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 1,948
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Less flex so maybe a little.
Cridd is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.