T.O.P. Racing "Scythe" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#406
broken delrin spools
Yes, it happens a lot guys,
It happens also with me. I broke one delrin spool even without touching anything.
Only the power that the transmission applies on the spool is enough to crack the outdrives.
So I fix the broken delrin spool with Corally alu outdrives (part #79169)
After some adjustements you have to drill with 1mm side to side (both sides)and cross with a hammer a 1mm steel wire trough the hole.
It happens also with me. I broke one delrin spool even without touching anything.
Only the power that the transmission applies on the spool is enough to crack the outdrives.
So I fix the broken delrin spool with Corally alu outdrives (part #79169)
After some adjustements you have to drill with 1mm side to side (both sides)and cross with a hammer a 1mm steel wire trough the hole.
#407
Tech Apprentice
here a picture of my scythe
I´m very happy with the car, runs very good...
I´m very happy with the car, runs very good...
#408
#409
That is a good idea
I have Tamiya ones laying aroun and some hardened ones from my G4S spool.
Thanks for the tip
I have Tamiya ones laying aroun and some hardened ones from my G4S spool.
Thanks for the tip
#410
Jimmy u got PM
#411
For the Spool-matter, i put my Xray T2-outdrives in the TOP-one way. After drilling a hole in the one way the hex of the Multidiff fits perfect and we have a very strong spool. To solve the axle-problem (soon to be solved by TOP ) i used my T2-axles with the blades and i didn't have a problem the whole weekend with a 4,5 LRP brushless.
When TOP solves the front they can get out again, but for now i'm happy with my solution.
By the way: the second round of the Dutch Nationals are won this weekend by Jan van Steeg with a TOP Scythe Red Edition. After TQ in the 19T-qualifiers he finished both A-mains with a 10 sec lead. Congrats to Jan and TOP, TQ and win at the first appearance of the Scythe!!
greetz,
Eric
When TOP solves the front they can get out again, but for now i'm happy with my solution.
By the way: the second round of the Dutch Nationals are won this weekend by Jan van Steeg with a TOP Scythe Red Edition. After TQ in the 19T-qualifiers he finished both A-mains with a 10 sec lead. Congrats to Jan and TOP, TQ and win at the first appearance of the Scythe!!
greetz,
Eric
#412
: First attachment: my solution to the solid axle issues!
: Second attachment: my Scythe 2007 edition
: Second attachment: my Scythe 2007 edition
#413
ally looks good
Any noticeable difference in handling or benefits of the new 2007 kit ???
Notice new center top plates.
What else is changed ?
Any noticeable difference in handling or benefits of the new 2007 kit ???
Notice new center top plates.
What else is changed ?
#414
The two part top deck is not a TOP part. Only difference on the 2007 model is the 2.5mm lower deck (up from 2mm) and red anodising (popular demand).
#415
OK got it .Thanks
#416
Top Deck Mod
Probably been asked before, but..............................
What does that modification of the top deck result in performance wise over the standard top deck?.
Is the 2.5mm bottom chassis better than the 2mm for asphalt racing?
Cheers
Aaron
What does that modification of the top deck result in performance wise over the standard top deck?.
Is the 2.5mm bottom chassis better than the 2mm for asphalt racing?
Cheers
Aaron
#417
2mm chassis is working so good dont see a need for teh 2.5.
Guess its also to cater for the US carpet spec guys.
Guess its also to cater for the US carpet spec guys.
#418
Originally Posted by razzor
ally looks good
Any noticeable difference in handling or benefits of the new 2007 kit ???
Notice new center top plates.
What else is changed ?
Any noticeable difference in handling or benefits of the new 2007 kit ???
Notice new center top plates.
What else is changed ?
Other things different on my car shown in that picture:
Carbon suspension arms
Aluminium differential upgrade set in the rear
Servo moved to the forward position with a shorter turnbuckle used
Ballstud going into the steering bellcrank has been shimmed up 4mm to provide a more level link between servo and bellcrank
Ackermann plate removed and steering bellcrank screwed into rearward hole underneath the original plate position, shimmed up 3mm to make up for the dissapearance of the plate and an extra 1mm to eliminate bump steer
As you can see, a lot of this deals with the front end steering section of the car.
@zacabrandy, I have tried the 2.5 chassis on asphalt and, despite its increased rigidity, it works perfectly fine on the dusty, bumpy tracks we have in the UK. It is a lot more consistent and predictable than the 2mm chassis on the track.
HTH
#419
Ali,
I see you are not using the sway bars with the car, I find that without the sway bars the car is really unpredictable. How are you getting around this? and does it have any more performance without the bars.
The problems Im having is on initial turn, the car understeers for a little bit and the other problem is direction changes, I am finding it hard to get the car to change direction quickly and this is costing me dearly at the moment.
Any help would be great.
racing on asphalt tracks, stock with a spool
Cheers
Aaron
I see you are not using the sway bars with the car, I find that without the sway bars the car is really unpredictable. How are you getting around this? and does it have any more performance without the bars.
The problems Im having is on initial turn, the car understeers for a little bit and the other problem is direction changes, I am finding it hard to get the car to change direction quickly and this is costing me dearly at the moment.
Any help would be great.
racing on asphalt tracks, stock with a spool
Cheers
Aaron
#420
Hi Aaron,
The roll bars were not on the car in that picture as it was taken before my first run on that particular day, by the end of the day I had connected them back up, and found them to make the car twitchier, which also provided more steering mid-corner. This was when using a 1.4 rollbar on the front and a 1.2 on the rear. On the track I was testing at, I found the car was more predictable without rollbars, but this is not the same story everywhere.
Regarding your setup problems, what droop, roll centres and shock pistons/oils/springs are you running?
The roll bars were not on the car in that picture as it was taken before my first run on that particular day, by the end of the day I had connected them back up, and found them to make the car twitchier, which also provided more steering mid-corner. This was when using a 1.4 rollbar on the front and a 1.2 on the rear. On the track I was testing at, I found the car was more predictable without rollbars, but this is not the same story everywhere.
Regarding your setup problems, what droop, roll centres and shock pistons/oils/springs are you running?