8th scale buggy engine
01-11-2006, 07:54 PM
#31
do use a heat gun if you got one.
i don't have a heat gun so i make sure that the engine is primed and loosen the glow plug abit.
99% of the time the engine will start. immed i blip the throttle to bring the temp up. don't let engine idle or it will cool down and stall.
there are various breaking in methods. i've used the stephen bess method for most of my engines.
i'd wana try josh cyrul's method for my next engine. (see below)
http://cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
i don't have a heat gun so i make sure that the engine is primed and loosen the glow plug abit.
99% of the time the engine will start. immed i blip the throttle to bring the temp up. don't let engine idle or it will cool down and stall.
there are various breaking in methods. i've used the stephen bess method for most of my engines.
i'd wana try josh cyrul's method for my next engine. (see below)
http://cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
01-11-2006, 08:50 PM
#32
Wow!!! hold full throttle for three tanks (per Cyruls instructions) that seems risky. I understand the concept. He wants the top end so rich that it would probably stall at anything but full throttle. That way lots of fuel runs through the engine. Still seems risky to me.
There are so many different theories out there for engine break in it gives me a head ache
I just want my $300 engine to last a little while 
I'll keep reading
There are so many different theories out there for engine break in it gives me a head ache
I just want my $300 engine to last a little while I'll keep reading
01-11-2006, 11:49 PM
#34
running the engine at full throttle when it's running very rich is okay cos the RPMs won't build up due to the rich setting.
the engine will make '4-stroke engine' kind of sound.
if you go to RB's website, rody has recommended a similar way of breaking in engines.
as for the P5X's carb, it's still the old design. you gotta turn the carb around to do the linkage. when i got my P5TX, i was also surprised it didn't come with the new carb design...
the newer nova plus21-5 has the proper design which is meant for buggies...
then again, not really a big deal cos the main prob wif the old design was tt reaching the idle screw was abit diff, that's all...
the engine will make '4-stroke engine' kind of sound.
if you go to RB's website, rody has recommended a similar way of breaking in engines.
as for the P5X's carb, it's still the old design. you gotta turn the carb around to do the linkage. when i got my P5TX, i was also surprised it didn't come with the new carb design...
the newer nova plus21-5 has the proper design which is meant for buggies...
then again, not really a big deal cos the main prob wif the old design was tt reaching the idle screw was abit diff, that's all...
01-12-2006, 01:25 AM
#35
this breakin thing is crazy. Everyone has a way. I thougth baby steps.
At first start the engine and just get it to idle vry rich. About 140 deg. After the tank is almost empty. kill the engine and let cool. Then start and do the same.
After that drive around about 1/4 speed for about 2 tanks. Then run about 180 deg. at 1/2 speed. Next lean out to 200 plus.
Now you have a nice golden brown pie ready to munch on.
At first start the engine and just get it to idle vry rich. About 140 deg. After the tank is almost empty. kill the engine and let cool. Then start and do the same.
After that drive around about 1/4 speed for about 2 tanks. Then run about 180 deg. at 1/2 speed. Next lean out to 200 plus.
Now you have a nice golden brown pie ready to munch on.
01-13-2006, 09:24 PM
#37
Here ya go D_ames
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
01-13-2006, 09:43 PM
#38
I have been using the new school method since I saw it and have recieved the best results as of yet.I have tried everything from breaking in on a stand with a propeller on it to the w.o.t. 4 stroking.I have to say the new school method in my opinion IS the best method. 
01-14-2006, 06:01 AM
#40
Your welcome sir!
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