How to make a deep discharge/ equalizing trey
#3
it says
you can look it up here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...900482498&rd=1
Features:
NiCad and NiMh compatible
6 Cell discharger
Automatic 0.7v cut-off voltage for each cell
Cut off jumper bypass option to take your cells to 0 volts
LED's monitors each pair of cells
Compact enough to fit into tool boxes with battery
Solid Printed Circuit Board construction
Directions on instillation and use
NiCad and NiMh compatible
6 Cell discharger
Automatic 0.7v cut-off voltage for each cell
Cut off jumper bypass option to take your cells to 0 volts
LED's monitors each pair of cells
Compact enough to fit into tool boxes with battery
Solid Printed Circuit Board construction
Directions on instillation and use
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...900482498&rd=1
#4
discharger
I would suggest that if you could buy it cheap enough, dupplicate it then unload it....what you need is the values off the diodes and such...it looks easy enough to build but without the numbers you'll have to do the calculations..in the end you might buy it cheaper off the guy than you can make it for.....
#5
Re: discharger
Originally posted by 6Cuda6
I would suggest that if you could buy it cheap enough, dupplicate it then unload it....what you need is the values off the diodes and such...it looks easy enough to build but without the numbers you'll have to do the calculations..in the end you might buy it cheaper off the guy than you can make it for.....
I would suggest that if you could buy it cheap enough, dupplicate it then unload it....what you need is the values off the diodes and such...it looks easy enough to build but without the numbers you'll have to do the calculations..in the end you might buy it cheaper off the guy than you can make it for.....
lol...
Anyways,
It's hard buying stuff online with money orders. It takes extra longer turnaround time dealing with people in USA.
I think it would be a fun project and I would much rather buy stuff from radio shack or so and build it instead of waiting 3 weeks... (not that long but still...)
Any electriction here that can read those resistor color codes? I used to be able to in grade 8 when i was in some electric wiring class.
#7
Super Steve.
At radio shack, they have numerous books on electronics that will more than in depth explain the answers to the questions you are seeking.
I believe its a fairly standard zenor diode. Most diodes have a threshold of .6 volts, but that should still work. Just make sure they can handle 20-30 watts a peice. That is basicall 1 volt times 30 amps (volts x amps = watts)
At radio shack, they have numerous books on electronics that will more than in depth explain the answers to the questions you are seeking.
I believe its a fairly standard zenor diode. Most diodes have a threshold of .6 volts, but that should still work. Just make sure they can handle 20-30 watts a peice. That is basicall 1 volt times 30 amps (volts x amps = watts)
#9
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
The printed circuit board looks like a DIY kit from Fry's or other good electronics store (read that as NOT Radioshack). The PCB is overkill for this setup.
The LED and small resistor are connected in series across 2 cells. LED's usually turn on at 1.5-1.6V so a single battery won't light it up. The small resistors look like 10ohm 1/4w since they are just there for show. The LED's and small resistor won't drain the batteries much as it is only pulling about 20mA. This is just there to tell when 2 of the cells it connected to reach the LED cutoff of 1.5-1.6 volts.
Pitcrew was right about the zener diode in reverse has a .6V cutoff but the big resistor only a 1ohm at either 1/2W or 1W power rating. The most current you can pull with a 1.2V cell connected to the zener diode and resistor is 0.6A. The zener diode need only be a 1/2W or 1W to be safe as the power flowing through it at 0.6A at 0.6V is 0.36W.
This design will equalize your cells to ~.6V but it will take a long time as it draws less than 1/2A. Dump your pack to 5.4V total before hooking it up to tray like this.
However, as will all semiconductors the zener diode has a very small leakage current. If you stored your batteries connected to this tray the cells would eventually go 0.0V but we're talking days or weeks to do that.
I'll draw the some schematics in a bit and post them.
For those EE nuts who forgot everything from school like me, here is an online resistor color decoder.
http://ac3l.com/resistor.htm
The LED and small resistor are connected in series across 2 cells. LED's usually turn on at 1.5-1.6V so a single battery won't light it up. The small resistors look like 10ohm 1/4w since they are just there for show. The LED's and small resistor won't drain the batteries much as it is only pulling about 20mA. This is just there to tell when 2 of the cells it connected to reach the LED cutoff of 1.5-1.6 volts.
Pitcrew was right about the zener diode in reverse has a .6V cutoff but the big resistor only a 1ohm at either 1/2W or 1W power rating. The most current you can pull with a 1.2V cell connected to the zener diode and resistor is 0.6A. The zener diode need only be a 1/2W or 1W to be safe as the power flowing through it at 0.6A at 0.6V is 0.36W.
This design will equalize your cells to ~.6V but it will take a long time as it draws less than 1/2A. Dump your pack to 5.4V total before hooking it up to tray like this.
However, as will all semiconductors the zener diode has a very small leakage current. If you stored your batteries connected to this tray the cells would eventually go 0.0V but we're talking days or weeks to do that.
I'll draw the some schematics in a bit and post them.
For those EE nuts who forgot everything from school like me, here is an online resistor color decoder.
http://ac3l.com/resistor.htm
#11
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
Here is a quick schematic for the discharger/equalizer for each cell and the LED setup across 2 cells and some equations. If I made a mistake it is because I am human and I would love you to post a correction. You just need to replicate this across all 4/6 cells of your pack. Have fun.
#12
wow cool!
For the led diagram, does the resistor need to be infront of the negative side of the LED?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...817247484&rd=1
What about discharge treys that have those type resistors?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5900350691
For the led diagram, does the resistor need to be infront of the negative side of the LED?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...817247484&rd=1
What about discharge treys that have those type resistors?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5900350691
Last edited by Super Steve; 05-26-2004 at 03:49 PM.
#14
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Micro pack discharger
Greetings all,
With the increasing popularity of micro racing, and the increasing demand for better and better products, I was wondering if anyone would know of how to make a discharge tray/board for micro cells?
I would be interested in a discharge tray that would:
a) be able to hold a 5-cell or 6-cell inline pack of 2/3A or KAN cells
b) discharge at a rate of 5.0A
c) discharge down to 0.9V per cell, or 0.0V per cell with reverse lockout protection
d) include LEDs (like other boards) to indicate cell discharge status
Any ideas?
With the increasing popularity of micro racing, and the increasing demand for better and better products, I was wondering if anyone would know of how to make a discharge tray/board for micro cells?
I would be interested in a discharge tray that would:
a) be able to hold a 5-cell or 6-cell inline pack of 2/3A or KAN cells
b) discharge at a rate of 5.0A
c) discharge down to 0.9V per cell, or 0.0V per cell with reverse lockout protection
d) include LEDs (like other boards) to indicate cell discharge status
Any ideas?