MiSFitSLvR

hey guys,

i am thinking about getting a pro 2. they are really cheap but they are really good cars. do you think one would still be competitive? i will either get that or the yok worlds edition. i dont know if i wnat to keep my pro 3. i am going to have to spend a freekin butt load of money just like zombies said. i can get a real nice fixed up pro 3 off of ebay for less than 200 dollars. i think i am going for it.

rc-zombies: there is a lot of new houses and stuff in roseville. we are gonna live like 5-10 minutes away from swr. the streeet is called everet or something. i cant wait! well talk to ya later

Kurt

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

MiSFitSLvR:
Lucky you... you're only a stone throw away from SWR. I'm over and an hour and a half away. Usually I can only get out there once a month before SWR starts night racing due to the hot weather in the summer. Since having our first Baby it's been a year since I've been out there.
I'm going to try to get out there in the next couple of weeks to do some testing and try to get the car all set-up....

The pro2 is still very competative... It was fast and built like a tank. I wish I still had mine. I regret selling it.


later....

MiSFitSLvR

well i might be trading with this guy and his pro 2 is flawless. just cant resist it. here is a pic of the bottom

MiSFitSLvR

and the top

sosidge

I really think that going for a Pro2 at this stage would be a backwards step at this stage - parts are now coming on line, even in America, to fix the known issues with the car - the only thing that can't really be fixed yet (although the parts are coming) is the flexible wishbones.

And also, the claim you need to spend £100's to make a pro3 compete is frankly, rubbish.

My car competed with only a top deck as a hop up - I've now spent maybe £90 on hop-up parts - a top deck, ally spur mount, three piece rear motor mount, anti-roll bars and 3deg caster blocks - half of that is just to give me tuning options, and the ally parts are only to improve the precision and usability of the car - they're only worth a tiny percentage in actual performance.

SioKoy

Hey guys n gals can anyone help me setup my pro3? Its all hop-up and until now its the same problem UNDERSTEER!!!

JohnA

If you are sure the car is suffering from understeer try the 3deg caster blocks they should give you a lot more turn in. Also what springs, tyres are you using and what surface do you race on? All of these things relate to how the car handles.

A lot of people think the cars understeering but they are just trying to get round corners too fast.

MiSFitSLvR

hey guys

i just got done driving my car for the first time with the upper deck in it and i really love it. i was about to switch to a yok too then today i just felt like takin my car out and i loved it! the upper deck makes the huges difference in the world. i have new foams on it and i was driving it in my driveway and there is dust all over the car. it is like brown. i am going to clean it all out tonight. i have the diff covers cut out on it and suprisingly, there were no rocks or anything in the diffs. when i cut them out i left the small piece on there that actually covers the diff. i think that is why i didnt get any rocks in there or anything. the pro 3 is definatley fast. it handles so good with the one way in it! well i guess i will talk to ya later..... oh yeah does anyone have any good setups for stock racing on hugh grip prepared asphalt (rc-zombies help me out)

later

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I've never had a push problem with my Pro3 but i experienced it first hand with another pro3 that someone brought to the track. For atleast a month he had complained of pushing so I drove his car to see what he was talking about. Woah did it push bad!! After I recommended some setup changes and tires it still pushed miserably. My last two suggestions were to raise his front ride height (crazy huh?) because I felt the front was bottoming out and then pop the front shocks to see how free the suspension movement was. Lo and behold he found out the suspension was binding slightly against the front unhooked sway bar (on but not connected) and also the dogbone was hanging up a bit. He went out to the track and said problem solved- no push.
Moral of the story- It's all in the details

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Can someone take a picture of their diff covers and how they cut them...

Outdoor season is about to start here but if I can remove a ton of weight from the car, I was thinking about making small plastic covers to seal the hole, but still remove the weight, what ya think???

MiSFitSLvR

the pics dont explain wel because you cant really see what is being cut. just take off both of your diff covers and cut the whold middle out and leave the sides with all of the screw holes in them so you can still mount the shock tower. so you are pretty much just cutting of the very sides. dont worry about the mount that is right in the middle of the diff cover because the shock towers are mounted to the sides too. it is easier if you just take them off and look at them your self. you can see what you can cutoff and what you cant just by looking. hope i helped

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

There is a picture on the HPI website showing my car with cutout diff covers.

Kenneth Tan

iTrader: (1)

I think the graphite arms are being released in April 2002 on Japanese HPI website.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Here's the pics...

ijnek

dunno whether u guys heard abt it,but there's a hpi pro3 spec V that is being released jus in Asia.it comes with all the hop-ups available and also upper deck to eliminate the body flex.

for more details,go to www.rccentral.com