Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

Punisher can paint.... racing is a different story. I can't tell you anymore on his chassis, otherwise you guys will ban him.

InitialD

So now I know who sent Jump 7 Miles to haunt me

InitialD

Is Punisher entering his defense for this?

Perhaps he (or you) could show us some proof from pictures of his car and let us be the judge

markp27

That's just the begining my friend!

n1technik

fixed the problem. thanks bro. i wonder why they didn't make it like on impact. they don't use ball cups just a rod with "S" shape at the end. thought it will create slops but haven't found any yet.
btw, anyone interested in Impact M2 4wd 2002 WC edition? 235class is fading away in my area. i was going to keep it for a paper weight but i think i should start saving up for 1/8th.
anyways. if you are interested PM me. don't reply here. with MS engine with 1 1/2 gallons through it. well so that's that.
now..
is it me or that carb on sirio is bigger than regular nova carbs? pain in the butt to install radio plate. and top of that all linkages had to be just right to clear fuel tank and roll over bar.

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

Punisher and InitialD thanks for the info on the front difs!

superk

iTrader: (8)

I see some car mount their rear shock on the a-arm instead of the upright?? what difference does it make?? Here is what my car setup likes

Front:
Camber: -1
Caster: 2degrees
Swaybar: 45 degrees
Toein: 0
Shock oil : Serpent 30 , click hole 3 (2nd softest)
Shock Spring : Yellow
Shock mount : 1st hole (from the inside)
Ride hight: 6mm
Droop: 0
tyre: 40shore 26mm
diff: Lock diff

Rear:
Camber: -2
Swaybar: factory one I think 2mm
Toein: 2 degrees
Shock oil: Serpent 30, click hole 3(2nd softest)
Shock sprint: Orange
Shock Mount: 1st hole (from the inside)
Ride hight: 6mm
Droop: 7mm
Tyre: 40shore 30mm

That's all...it seem likes... I try to tight up my rear diff all the way but..some how...with my hand I hold the gear and one tyers and try to spin the other tyers and it seem to move a little (very tightly) is this ok. Thought the diff might be too loose.

Any ways...help me with my setup problem.
Thanks

InitialD

I think Serpent mentions that this setting is only good if you have a smooth track. Less rear tire scrubbing.

I would think that steering increases with this setup.

InitialD

Ummm, that looks a little steep. How many clips are in front of the arms? The caster clips come in 4 mm, 2 mm and 1 mm thickness. Which clip is in the front arm?

superk

iTrader: (8)

the 2MM one in the front...and the rest in the rear.

InitialD

superk, the front and rear droop settings that you have are actually ideal for a car equipped with a front one way. A front one way usually has lots of on power and off power steering. So putting a front solid axle will definitely reduce your off power steering... which in your case I find it unusual that you compain that you have too much off power steering. Try any of this suggestions one by one to achieve a good setup;

For the front, I would first try to increase the caster angle by putting bigger caster clips in the front of the arm. Maybe take the the 4 mm one and put in in the front arms instead of the 2 mm one. Slowly increase till you get a nice balance. Putting more caster blocks (increasing the caster angle) will reduce off power but will increase on power steering. Secondly, try stiffening the front sway bar (90 degrees maybe?). Thirdly, you could try harder dampening by clicking up the shocks to 2 holes or 1 hole. Fourth, you may want to try harder front tires like 42 or 45 shore.

For the rear, I would suggest you change the orange springs to the stock yellow. Stiffer rear spring will aid in the on power steering out of the corners. You would probably loose rear traction. I would suggest more negative camber in the rear like -3 or -4. If you find the rear end still lacking traction and swings out when you take corners, use more toe in (3 maybe). If still a problem, try clicking down on the shock holes from 3 to 4 to make the dampening softer. Else you could also try to loose the rear shock tower and mount the rear shocks on the rear bulkheads to make the rear shocks more horizontal. You may also want to try and lock the rear diff a little. A tigher rear diff will make it more difficult to enter the corner (reduce the off power steering) and easier to punch out of the corner (increase on power steering).

If you're still getting too much off power steering (which I doubt after the changes above), decrease the rear droop from +7 to +8 or +9. If at the same time you need more on power steering (which I also doubt after the changes above) increase the front droop from 0 to -1 or -2.

For the solid front axle, usually if other setups are balanced, you would end up with something like +6 or +5 droop for the rear to increase off power steering and 0 or +1 for the front droop because with a front solid axle, you can get enough on power steering like the one way front diff.

Let me know if you run out of suggestions to do on your car

taz5176

hey D
my fren is going k.l, any good hobby shops there? can u give me the address?
any good buys???

superk

iTrader: (8)

Will it make any difference if I put 28mm 40SHore Rear tyer in the front?? or if I will get like 42 shore rear 26mm in the front??

modellor

Unless you want to modify the steering arms on the hub carriers you can only run 26mm on the front of the 705

BOWTIE1

does a solid front axle help ????