Baha x

iTrader: (14)

Bump

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Why exactly are you doing this?

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On a different note:

a) Anyone know what the difference between UM519 and UM519-2 is? Just a running update, or something significant?

b) Is UMW604 all I need to covert to a gear diff (is it the right part at all?)?

tel

iTrader: (9)

a) UM519-2 is beefed up and the camber links are 2mm further out. You are still better off getting the aluminum hubs. They will be the last ones you buy. UMW704-0

b) Yes, UMW604 is all you need to convert to a gear diff. I would suggest you get the aluminum gear diff case cap UMW726 as this seals the diff much better than the plastic one. Also, if you find you are stripping the bevel gears the steel ones will solve it (VZW424 ).

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that was great help! I'll try and go without VZW424 (damn, those are expensive!) but I'll go for the rest. Thanks!!!

tel

iTrader: (9)

Couple more things on the gear diff. You should bet the Kyosho diff seal grease XGS151. Use this on the o-rings and gasket to reduce leaking.

If you want to lighten the diff, Kyosho makes aluminum cross pins TFW008. You might also be able to find titanium M2.6 screws from Hiro Seiko or 3Racing. There are no places in the USA to get these but you might have better luck in Europe or Asia.

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again. That's quite some expensive grease... but heck, it's an expensive hobby - and compared to other things, not all that much money. Not sure I need to lighten the diff though - I'm running the truck in mod class, used to have an 8.5T in it on our dusty and bumpy dirt (cannot call it clay, even though it was supposed to be) track. Now with the change to turf, that will drop to 7.5T or even 6.5T, so I'm not as desperate for weight savings as the stock guys are. And with a decent track, I'm quite sure my focus will shift away from Short Course and into buggies again (and probably stadium truck), so I'm trying not to spend too much on the SC6 - even though I've really loved this truck from the first lap on.

And yes, I can get Hiro Seiko screws in several places over here, no problem. Much easier in fact than getting the Kyosho parts. (I usually end up buying those from amain, since they have most things in stock and very fair shipping raters for international customers - far better than anyone else I have seen in the US so far.) But again, racing mod, I don't think I really need to go titanium there. But thanks for the input! Really appreciate it.

tel

iTrader: (9)

I finally got my SC6 where I like it for my home track of Hobby Action in Chandler, AZ. This is an indoor hard packed medium/high bite bumpy track. The idea was to get as much traction out of the tires as possible so I had to go very low ride height with soft springs and control the roll with sway bars. I also moved a lot of weight forward to get it rotate. On a low bite track this setup would be terrible. This setup likes to be driven aggressively which suits my driving style.

Running the laydown transmission is worth it for the low CG and moving weight up front. However, you have to remove the side rails to change the motor.

Here are some of the main points of the setup:

• 24mm ride height front & rear
• RB6.6 3 gear laydown transmission (drilled 2 holes in chassis)
• Running rear buggy red springs up front, truck front springs were too short with so much droop and JTP tower & arm
• Sway bars front (1.4mm) and rear (1.0mm) used two RB6 stabilizer sets UMW708 with custom front mount)
• Schelle top shaft and slipper delete
• MIP SC6 Pucks (good luck finding these, near impossible to get now)
• 3D printed rear body mount to make JC HF2 SCT lite-weight fit
• Moved rear shocks to front of arms
• Motor is running 51deg timing as measured by motor analyzer and pulls around 10 amps free spinning
• Total weight moved forward is around 2.5%

If anyone is interested in the rear body mounts I can print them for shock behind or in front of the rear arms. I have designs for both.

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

3 gear laydown transmission? Is it worth the effort? Drilling holes into the chassis is not exactly what I'd be looking forward to... currently I'm running the 3 gear stand up / mid motor config.

(I'm going to race on Astro for the absolute majority of the time, maybe a little carpet here and there, probably no more dirt/clay at all.)

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I am thinking that the laydown will help you and the standup will hurt your lap times. I am assuming that the turf would be high bite.

If you want to put a laydown transmission in the truck find yourself some flat clear lexan. Assemble a laydown transmission assembly and place it on the lexan. Mark the lexan where you would bolt the two together. Now you have your template which you can attach to the chassis and you can drill the holes in the proper location.

I kind of bounced around a little but I hope you can make sense of it.

tel

iTrader: (9)

I screwed an RB6.6 chassis together with my SC6 chassis to use an drill guide for the two holes needed for the laydown transmission. You could use thick lexan or other plastic and make a drill guide from the transmission case. I would use calipers to locate the holes rather than just eyeballing it.

Aside from lowering the CG by going to the laydown transmission you are moving a lot of weight forward (>2%). If that is too much you could run a sideways battery with a small amount of modification of the side rails. Moving the weight forward should really help on a high bite astro. Moving the weight forward also helps with rotation but like I said if the traction is iffy due to water / dust my setup is sketchy. The stickier the track gets the better this works.

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, guys. So it's probably worth a go. Since I don't have an RB6.6 chassis to do that (which sounds like a perfectly easy method to do it), I'll try Kraig's tip with the lexan.

I already started putting weight forward and lower. Moved the battery forward and placed the ESC behind it instead of above. Thankfully, I didn't change any wiring yet, since with the lay down transmission, the ESC will probably move to the front of the battery, and I'd have to redo everything again.

So now comes the big question... what parts are needed for this?
I assume:

• UM736
• UM738
• ...UM737?
• Anything else needed?

tel

iTrader: (9)

You need the following. You need the 40T idler gear if you want to run 3 gear or an extra 26T if you want to run 4 gear. The gear cover set is not a requirement for SC6 as this is used to keep the RB6.6 body off the gear.
UM736 LD Gear Box Set (RB6.6/LD)
UM737 SP Idler Gear (40T/RB6.6/LD)
UM738 LD Motor Plate (RB6.6/LD)
UM739 LD Gear Cover Set (RB6.6/LD)

You also need one of the following for the front rear suspension holder. The standard ones don't have clearance for the LD transmission case.
UMW725B Brass Rear Sus.Holder(RF/MID/RB6.6/RB6/SC6/RT6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6)

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Ok, luckily I already got UMW705B, and since the gear cover (UM739) is not necessary, it really comes down to just the three items I thought I needed. Ok, so my brain is not thoroughly useless after all. Thanks!

Dummy

What is the differense rtr chassis vs kit chassis? Which is stiffer/softer in flex?

200sxr

Not new to Kyosho but new to the SC6 family! In the process of dialling it in to my liking. In the process of playing with spring rate, my local club track has a carpet in field and dirt / clay faster section which makes dialling in a bit of a compromise.

I have some buggy springs that I would like to try, does Kyosho make taller shock cups so that the buggy springs can be used in their truck shocks like AE does?