1LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
06-20-2014, 10:53 AM
#2176
i got a 1900kv tekin with 46spur and have a 15
06-20-2014, 11:33 AM
#2177
06-21-2014, 10:13 AM
#2179
High quality, an fast (0,08s) even on 6V and powerful (18kg).
On 7,4v its 0,06s and 22kg.
I run 6v, because I don't like the external bec thing, and the Futaba is not as power hungry as a Savox.
So this Futaba servo delivers high quality and fast strong performance even on 6v.
But it is not cheap.
06-21-2014, 10:44 AM
#2180
If I could choose one servo right now, I would choose the Futaba S9353HV.
High quality, an fast (0,08s) even on 6V and powerful (18kg).
On 7,4v its 0,06s and 22kg.
I run 6v, because I don't like the external bec thing, and the Futaba is not as power hungry as a Savox.
So this Futaba servo delivers high quality and fast strong performance even on 6v.
But it is not cheap.
High quality, an fast (0,08s) even on 6V and powerful (18kg).
On 7,4v its 0,06s and 22kg.
I run 6v, because I don't like the external bec thing, and the Futaba is not as power hungry as a Savox.
So this Futaba servo delivers high quality and fast strong performance even on 6v.
But it is not cheap.
Spektrum S6090
.09 speed and 21kg at 7.4V
06-21-2014, 07:23 PM
#2181
Okay gents. All I can say is I won't be changing pistons again. The 1.3/8 and splits in the rear were the best I have tried. TLR 35 1.3/8 in the front and 1.2-1.3/8 TLR 27.5 in the rear was the ticket for me. Smooth dry track today and the kit was on rails. I will be trying 30 in the rear but man I was dialed today. Silver springs front and rear.
06-22-2014, 12:14 AM
#2183
I just picked up an 8ightE 3.0 today from my LHS. Ordered a Tekin ESC and 1900kV motor. I'm new to 1/8th scale so does anyone have any build tips on this buggy?
06-22-2014, 02:17 PM
#2184
But if you start to build while you read
one tip is not to use the oils in the kit. They are not true to the weight printed on the tubes.
06-22-2014, 02:33 PM
#2185
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.
My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.
In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
06-22-2014, 02:58 PM
#2186
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ervo-Saver-Top
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.
My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.
In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.
My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.
In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
06-22-2014, 08:42 PM
#2190
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ervo-Saver-Top
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.
My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.
In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.
My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.
In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
Has anyone ever tried to replace the cva joint pins? I see mugen makes some.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...38mm-Joint-Pin